B Brakes
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=10552
Printed Date: 23 Jan 2025 at 7:21am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: B Brakes
Posted By: Charlie175
Subject: B Brakes
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2010 at 7:30am
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Anyone have a good video or picture show of putting new brakes on a B (Or a C)? I will be tackling that project in a few weeks and would like to know techniques or other experiences to help it go smooth. Thanks! ------------- Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
Replies:
Posted By: ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2010 at 7:39am
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On the top of the final drives, there are two pins on each side that hold the brake bands in. Although they are easy to get at and work on, it might be a good idea to put some PB blaster or Kroil penetrating oil on each end of them to help aid in loosening them up. If I remember right, you have to take the fender braces off also to get the brake bands out. Hope yours are better then mine. I haven't taken a B or C apart yet, that the brake bands weren't all rusted out on the bottom side where there is a pin to let the two halves pivot.
Also I should add that there is a small wire clip that holds the pin from sliding out left to right. Once the covers and fender brace rails are off, you should be able to pop the clips out with a screwdriver or needle nose pliers and then you can push them out.
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Posted By: ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2010 at 7:46am
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here is a good website for knowledge on your B. Nothing on brakes but a ton of other good stuff.
http://www.worldpath.net/~thompson/ - http://www.worldpath.net/~thompson/
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Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2010 at 10:05am
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So you don't need to pull the final drive off? I ordered a service manual.... Thanks for the link! ------------- Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
Posted By: ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2010 at 10:21am
| You only have to pull the final drive off if you have to replace the brake drum that is on the axle. I would think if all you have to do is put new pads in, you can do that without removing the final drive. |
Posted By: GlenninPA
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2010 at 11:52am
| The video would be filled with some bad words, most likely...... |
Posted By: Brad MI
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2010 at 3:31pm
| I've "machined" B/C brake drums by turning the axle with a Hole Hawg drill and holding a good file in place to clean up the drum. It ain't fun nor pretty, but it'll clean them up so they work well and don't trash the new pads immediately. You'll need to build an adapter to connect the Hole Hawg to the axle. |
Posted By: SteveC (NS)
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2010 at 3:56pm
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Sometimes you can have a heck of a time getting both (each side) of the .5" dia pins out. I think I remember using 4.5" angle grinder with a thin cut offf wheel to cut the pins.
After removing the bands I drove the remains of the outer pins in until they fell off into the housing, I then worked them out the hole in the bottom (you know, the "mouse door").
As for the cut off pieces on the other side I drilled a piece of .5"dia cold rolled concentricaly (in a lathe) with a #7 drill, put it in the outer holes to act as a pilot or guide and drillled (with the #7 drill) and tapped the inner pieces ΒΌ-20 and then pulled them out with a like sized bolt, nut and washer.
I've since heard of wiser folk welding a washer onto the pins and then using pry bars or whatever to remove the pins. The advantage to the welding method is that the heat imparted during the welding helps to free the pins from their years of grasp to the housing.
Good luck and let us know how you make out.
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2010 at 4:40pm
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use an air impact chisle with a pointed tip and the pins will poke out.. impact is better than constant push, or a hand hammer..... you might have to drill a 3/8 hole on the inner housing to get at the back side of the pin (by the seat) to push it to the outside. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2010 at 6:19pm
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sounds like more fun! Thanks for the tips ------------- Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
Posted By: gary ny
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2010 at 6:48pm
| The first thing I would suggest is spend a good amount of time with a good blow gun and clean the mice nests out of it.I have done alot of them now and have yet to find them without a trace at least of a nest. I did one and a family of the fell out of the bottom hole .About seven little ones fell out and went in 7 different directions and mom and dad came out the top and went in different directions.I took a half of a 5 gallon pail of insulation ,paper, grass and a large assortment of walnuts .butternuts and chestnuts out of the right side.The left was a half pail of mainly grass from an older nest. |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2010 at 6:56pm
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A fellow brought his final drive to because he couldn't get the pins out and heard I could. He had his old brake bands an pins in his hand and final drive loaded back up in his truck in about a half hour. and we chatted for while I took them out. He already had the clips out so I drilled the two 3/8" holes close to the center of the pins, took my air hammer with a punch and pushed the punch in the hole, pulled the trigger and the pins pushed out. Took a long screwdriver and chipped the crap loose around the brake band and pulled the brake band out the transmission end of the final drive. On that one the band hinge was rusted solid and would have been a chore pulling out the top. I have pulled most out with a small chain or wire and a pry bar. Most of the time with a cheater pipe on the pry bar. I pounded the pins out with a punch and hammer before I decided to try the air hammer.   I like to drill the small 3/8" punch hole out from the other side to make them look even. |
Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 06 Apr 2010 at 7:34pm
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OK, took about 1/2 hour to get the fender off, pull the cover and get the pins out (They slide right out). Now I am getting the bands out, which looks like you have to rotate them around and as you do pull one side out the top and continue rotating it around till the other side comes out. Problem is that this worked OK till the other end was at the bottom and now it won't budge anymore. Do I have the right idea? Or is there another way? And yes it had a lot of nesting material in it. ------------- Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 06 Apr 2010 at 8:02pm
| You have the right idea. Just keep working it. Usually the hinge at the bottom is rusted solid and the 2nd half has to be inched out with a bar. When installing the new ones, I use a heavy wire and bend it so you can feed it around the drum. Then attach it to 1 end of the brake band and pull and push at the same time until it is through. Good luck. Bob |
Posted By: David Gantt N.C.
Date Posted: 06 Apr 2010 at 8:21pm
| I use a slide hammer to pull mine out works pretty good, be sure to clean up that brake drum good. |
Posted By: DREAM
Date Posted: 06 Apr 2010 at 9:33pm
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My grandad used to jack one tire up and start the tractor to let it turn the drum so he could clean it up. I don't think I would recommend that. Maybe if you had both rims and tires off, with the tractor securely blocked and chocked. Still a good way to get your hand messed up at least. I don't think i'm gonna do mine that way. If the drums are really bad, i'll pull the finals and have a machine shop true 'em up. Better to take extra time and be safe than try to short cut and get hurt. Waste a lot more time being hurt, or worse.
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Posted By: Ken in Texas
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2010 at 8:42am
| The clearance between the housing and the drum is close but there is just enough room to pass a band between them if there is no hard grease/dirt combination in the way. It only takes a little junk you think is all out to stop the old band from moving. That junk gets hard as steel and takes lots of pecking with a variety of tools to chip it ALL free. Good luck. I can sympathize with you especially if your a first timer at doing a B/C/CA brake job. |
Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2010 at 9:26am
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I was so excited when the pins came right out and thought this is a piece of cake! I think the mice goo is compounding the clearance issue, I will dig it out more and try again. ------------- Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
Posted By: Dave Richards (WV)
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2010 at 10:11am
| My bands have never been reusable. I rotate the band till the hinge is on top and then cut it. Comes out easier in two pieces. |
Posted By: jjrosty
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2010 at 10:11am
| The first B brake job I thought I would reline the old brake bands. (I was young and stupid) But with the many years of Mouse leftovers & Muddubbers the bands & hinges were damaged beyond reuse once i got them out. I did find one of the missing spring clips in the debris that came out. |
Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2010 at 8:12pm
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You guys were correct. I used the air hose to blow out all the crud and got a small pile of nesting out and then the bands slid out. They are in good shape and the lining was worn down to the rivets. Now to put new pads on the bands and shine up the hub. ------------- Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
Posted By: Bill Long
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2010 at 8:31pm
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You know, the worst I ever had to work with in the 40's and 50's was a CA or B that had pulled a orchard sprayer. The sprayer liquid got all over the metal and rusted all fast. Took us time to get the band out.
Now the B is in some cases pushing 70 and all the pitfalls described above are there. Just goes to show had dedicated you all are.
I say this a lot and I really mean it. Thanks for all the pains you all go through to keep the Allis Chalmers name - a name I love - alive. Especially my favorate the B.
Good Luck!
Bill Long
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Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2010 at 6:41am
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Mouse crud  ------------- Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |