Construction and other equipment - HD6G Shovel Frame Pins

Print Page | Close Window

HD6G Shovel Frame Pins

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=105317
Printed Date: 27 Jul 2025 at 12:21pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com

Topic: HD6G Shovel Frame Pins

Posted By: Hogman
Subject: HD6G Shovel Frame Pins
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2015 at 5:02pm

Hello everyone, I'm new to the site and have a question. I've read through a lot of the posts here looking for wisdom on a few things that I've encountered on my HD6G and I must say, it's been very helpful. Recently I lost the outer intermediate shaft bearing in the right rear final on the 6 and am in the process of getting it tore down for replacement. My 6 has the third style shovel frame as best I can tell and I'm having trouble removing the rear shovel pin that attaches the shovel frame to the track truck assembly. I made up a puller using a piece of pipe and some hardened all thread that I threaded into the head of the pin and then using a nut on the end of the pipe have managed to get the pin moving but it is very hard to turn the nut. The pin is moving as I'm loosing threads on the other end of the pin, but like two threads an hour as I'm having to use a porta power to turn the wrench on the nut. I've heated, beated, sprayed with Kroil, and tried freezing the end of the pin but it still moves very slow, requiring a lot of force. My question is, am I missing an easier way to remove this pin? I'm a little worried that I may be gualding the pin but don't see any other means of removing it. Any advice would be appreciated and thanks again for an awesome wealth of knowledge!

Replies:

Posted By: donoman
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2015 at 6:57pm

I have removed the pins on my HD6G 25013 on three separate occasions over 30 years and never found an easy way, we have always ended up wrecking the pins and machining a new one. they were obviously supposed to be able to be pulled out when new but seem to get tighter as time rolls on

Posted By: donoman
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2015 at 6:59pm

It always involved the cutting torch

Posted By: Hogman
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2015 at 7:26pm

Man........I was afraid of that. Okay, I've got a lathe so machining isn't the end of the world. Did you use regular mild steel for the new pins, or something like 4140? I've got it moving but I figure it's peeling some of the pin away as it comes out. Thanks for the replies.

Posted By: donoman
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2015 at 7:56pm

I would say 4140 would be the best as I think the pins deform over the years which 4140 would not. Cheers

Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2015 at 10:34am

rather than pulling that pin - I made a plate to attach to truck frame under that outside axle bearing - then drilled and tapped the truck frame , this gave me alignment markings. Then I cut the tail piece from truck frame allowing removal of sprocket and axle, seals and inside gears.

After reassembly - I reattached tail piece and welded everything back in place - removed plate and finished welding truck frame .

-------------
Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."

Posted By: Hogman
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2015 at 6:35pm

I was thinking if I had to machine a new pin 4140 would probably work better than cold roll but wanted a second opinion. When I put the pin back it will have tons and tons of anti-seize on it for sure whether it's a new pin or the old one. I'm still in hopes that when it comes out it won't be too far gone. Cutting the truck.........honestly never thought about it but after reading what you done, probably not a bad idea at all. Thanks for the replies and happy digging!