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d19 gov or carb?

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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=10430
Printed Date: 22 Jan 2025 at 7:25pm
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Topic: d19 gov or carb?
Posted By: d19er
Subject: d19 gov or carb?
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 9:16pm
Got a d19 that spits and sputters under load.  I think I have adjusted the carb in every combination possible between the ilde screw,the mixture screw and the "load" screw.  I even drained the gas tank (it was clean inside) and blew out all the fuel lines and fuel pump.  If I take off at full throttle and then drop the 3 point tiller in the ground (put it under load), I can get about 3-5 tractor lengths before it starts surging, then it pops, stumbles and quits.  Sometime I can catch it before it quits by pushing the power director into nuetral and throttling down and let it "stabilize", then try again. 
 
I am at a loss and really confused - can anyone advise?  I don't know much about governors and have never adjusted it - had the tractor about ten years.  can anyone help?  thanks



Replies:
Posted By: D-17_Dave
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 9:29pm
IF, pulling the choke out helps the engine to recover I'd say you have a fuel starvation problem. Even if you blow out the fuel system, you must have good fuel flow all the way into the carb. bowl. You may have trash in the carb. inside the inlet or needle valve, but it sounds like fuel flow problems.
You may also have moister in the condensor or the coil. These problems normally lead to the engine shutting down and it will take a cool down to restart.


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 9:30pm
Plugged/dirty sediment bowl.....bad fuel pump.


Posted By: d19er
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 9:33pm
Thanks dave, but pulling the choke doesn't help & I have a new coil and condensor (and points) but changing those didn't help from the old parts.  Always shedded and not wet.  all I know is that gov rod is slapping back and forth pretty good when this happens


Posted By: d19er
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 9:35pm
newer fuel pump and surgically clean fuel filter, tank and bowl too.


Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 9:37pm
How are the spark plugs/wires?


Posted By: d19er
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 9:39pm
just installed new plugs as well within the last month - made no difference.  wires aren't new bu close to it


Posted By: D-17_Dave
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 9:41pm
Then check out the bushing in the distributor. If the bushing is worn it may torque over and change the points setting under the application of a load. I've had some success at setting the points gap a little wider than normal to help this condition, but a rebuilt distibutor is needed to fix this.


Posted By: d19er
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 9:43pm
during a fairly recent visit to the dealer, I mentioned the distributor dave, they removed and checked it and swear it's good


Posted By: EdIL
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 9:44pm
Sounds like a weak or bad ignition coil.  When it warms up under load, it gradually produces less electrical power.  Could also be a weak battery.  Good luck.


Posted By: D-17_Dave
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 9:46pm
Over gapping the points is worth a try to help illiminate it.


Posted By: d19er
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 9:48pm
i checked battery voltage the other day when running - 14.1 volts.  coil is new.  battery cranks it right over and it always starts right up again wth no smoke


Posted By: DREAM
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 10:01pm
Just a thought. How's the gas cap? I know it has a fuel pump, but it still has to vent somehow. If the cap is not a venting style, it would have to have a vent tube somewhere at the top. Does it ever die out like that when it's not loaded? Maybe running wide open throttle for a while? I'm having a problem with my C dying out sometimes. It doesn't necessarilly have to be loaded. Sometimes it will stumble and die just sitting and idling. I have tried everything. Cleaned carb. to spotless, including removing and cleaning behind jets. Replaced entire fuel line and settling bowl. Installed rolled piece of brass screen in fuel shutoff, so it's not getting trash over fuel outlet. Tank has been cleaned. Still need to try lining it. Tried leaving gas cap loose. Still does it. It is definitely running out of fuel. If I hop off as soon as it does it and open the carb. bowl drain, no gas comes out. Just thought, the fuel inlet needle may be sticking in the seat. Gotta check that soon as I get back home. 


Posted By: d19er
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 10:10pm
gas cap is original - so it doesn't fit dead on tight, can;t se it being a venting problem. I can run full throttle all day and it will never quit - until it's loaded or pulling hard.  I guess the only thing i haven't checked for a while is taking the carb apart.  not really a carb man - if i take the bottom off of it and check it to see if it's clean, but like i was saying - the tank was really clean and i always use good fuel, so the carb "should" be clean.  hasn't anyone ever heard of a governor doing this?


Posted By: D-17_Dave
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 11:54pm
The govn. just opens the throttle up when needed. If it's dying out you have a problem other than the govn.


Posted By: Butch(OH)
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2010 at 5:40am
Still sounds like fuel delivery to me but a long time ago I scratched my head over a neighbor's Plymouth car with a slant 6 for a week. It had the exact same symtoms. Would idle all day or drive down the road fine as long as you didnt try to go very fast or up a grade. About 15 seconds into climbing a grade or anytime you tried to go faster than abut 40 MPH it would start to spit sputter and if you stayed into it long enough it would die.  15 seconds later would start like nothing was wrong with it. Since every "real" repair shop in town had installed new a new fuel pump or rebuilt the carb but could not figure it out the owner brought it to me and said fix it,, or part it out. At my wits end I checked the valve lash and found problem. Lash was close to zero on all the valves, put a load on it and the exhaust would heat up and lift the valves off the seats. (For you young people the slant didnt have hydraulic lifters.) When I told the guy it was fixed and what fixed it he said, "I adjusted them down until they quit click'en, didn't know they were solid lifters." Didnt even use a feeler gauge, Good Grief!
 
Two points to all this since everything has been checked and is new or good shape.
 1 Have you told us the entire story, or part of it?
 2 Have you checked the valve lash?
 Sure would have saved that guy a load of money and grief.


Posted By: Ron S/IL
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2010 at 6:41am
Have you adjusted the float. I rebuilt my Carb. When I set the float it would flood out and die. I adjusted the float by bending the arms just a little too much. Now it will do as you describe. I just haven't taken it apart to tweek it. I seldom use it to the capacity to make it cut out.

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Ron Stork
Co-Owner Sign Solutions and Promotions.
We can custom make signs, decals and any promotional items you may want.


Posted By: Wil M (NEIA)
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2010 at 6:44am
We had a truck at work that was giving us problems, every once in a while it would just shut off going down the road or at high idle unloading feed.  Thought it was electrical gremlins and went thru the whole electronic computer brain etc along with fuel pump, injectors, everything.  Don't know how we found it, but it turned out to be a fuel conditioner cap in the fuel tank that would get sucked down over the fuel outlet. Little $2 bottle of conditioner cost us $1000 in repairs etc. 
 
So moral of the story is, check your fuel tank for something that might be covering the outlet up. It is starving for fuel and the govenor is trying to do its job.  Also take the carb off and completely clean it out and re-check your float setting.  Float may be set to shallow. 


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"Yet there are soulless men whose hand and brain tear down what time will never give again." Anderson M Scruggs


Posted By: d19er
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2010 at 8:31pm
Update gentlemen!  and thanks for all the advice.  I had a known crack in the intake that I was glossing over - didn't think it was that serious to make it run THAT bad. (like i said, tank was clean and almost everything is new or close to it for consumables).  But anyway, I got the mig out and spot welded the crack shut, and now it runs like a striped @** ape under load.  Wanted to update you all and thanks!



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