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Sputtering B

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=10376
Printed Date: 22 Jan 2025 at 4:02pm
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Topic: Sputtering B
Posted By: Charlie175
Subject: Sputtering B
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2010 at 5:27pm
See if you guys can help me out on my B. At higher RPM's, say 3/4 throttle it starts sputtering bad and dies out. I get no discolored smoke out the exhaust and if I back off the throttle it smooths out. See if the attached video helps show what I am talking about.

If I choke it, I can go full throttle

I cleaned the carb out, but it was not dirty or gunked up at all. I made sure all the passages were clear and the jets clear.
I reclamped the hose from the carb to the intake
New plugs and wires
Intake leak somewhere? Manifold leak?

[TUBE]xkJv2pq4xpg[/TUBE]


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Charlie

'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD



Replies:
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2010 at 5:44pm
It is not getting enough fuel.  You have to have a restriction somewhere. Choking is bringing  more fuel into the engine.  It could be in the tank or the sediment bowl. It could be in or behind the main power jet. Did you remove the main jet and discharge jet? An often overlooked place is behind the main or under the discharge jet/tube. (Same place) You clean that area by spinning a small drill bit with your fingers to dig out the crud.


 


Posted By: JohnDNY
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2010 at 6:04pm
Try it without the air cleaner hooked up. May have a problem with a blockage there as I did.


Posted By: Bob D. (La)
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2010 at 6:10pm
Is it just me, or does it sound like it has a solid miss on one cylinder as well.The dieing out at wot is somehow being starved of gas. I would start by removing sediment bowl, draing gas tank,(i usually strain through a coffee filter into a clean can. Make sure sediment bowl is clean through all passages. Remove and clean gas line. put back together and try. If results are the same, you have some trash in the carb, blocking or at least partially blocking a passage.

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When you find yourself in a hole,PUT DOWN THE SHOVEL!!!


Posted By: wfmurray
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2010 at 6:44pm
Points to close . May have bad dis cap. Sure does not sound like mine.


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2010 at 7:01pm
Paint it green and yellow and it'll be worth twice as much. No, the first thing you need to do is short out or remove one plug wire at a time (while it is running) to find out which 2 cylinders aren't firing. then find out why they are not firing. Then worry about fuel problems.

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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2010 at 7:22pm
Pulling the choke out blocks incoming air, and richen's the mix. This in turn makes the engine draw fuel up the emulsion tube. As Dick mentioned, you have a fuel delivery problem or blockage. If it idles fine, the blockage is probably in the enrichment circuit. Do as Dick mentioned and see how you make out...
Steve@B&B


Posted By: David Gantt N.C.
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2010 at 7:55pm
after you clean it out with drill bit blow it out with compressed air, good luck.


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2010 at 8:03pm
Bob hit on it first. If you listen to it run it never runs on all 4, even at idle. there is a problem with either spark,fuel or compression in one cylinder (or more) that is not effecting 2 other cylinders. Either there is a bad valve, bad plug or wire or, as in a case I had once after a guy did a tune up on an M farmall , 2 of the plug wires are crossed. Start the tractor and see if it makes any difference if you pull a plug wire. If it makes a difference, hook that one back up and go to the next one. If you find 2 that are not firing , switch the plug wires around on those 2 plugs and see if that helps.

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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2010 at 8:27pm
it is missing on one cylinder from the way it sounds.  Try pulling one plug wire off at a time and see which cylinder is your problem.  Then check the plug.  Then I would pop the valve cover and see if you have a stuck valve.  This was that nice original B that you brought home a week or two ago right?  I would guess from sitting you have a stuck valve, but it could be a bad spark plug also.  Did you put all new plugs in it?  This one was a mag if I remember right? 


Posted By: DREAM
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2010 at 9:09pm
Definitely not firing on all 4. I had similar problem with my C. Pulled valve cover after cleaning carb, cleaning and setting points and timing. Had badly bent pushrod on #1 cylinder. Straightenned it out, put it back in. Ran better, but was still dying out. Removed plate over intake runner in manifold. Had  hole burned through intake runner you could stick your finger through! Robbed manifold from my sons' C. Ran like a champ. Still runs out of fuel and dies every now and then. Still troubleshooting that one.


Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2010 at 9:11pm
All new plugs and plug wires, and yes it has been sitting a while when I got it.
I'll go through the steps this weekend, thanks for pointers!


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Charlie

'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD


Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 10:39am
OK, my manual doesn't show what the piston order is. So from front to back, what is the order?
I need to ensure the plug wires are on the right posts.


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Charlie

'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD


Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 10:56am
OK, I think its 1,2,3,4 from front to back. If so the previous owner had the wires swapped around on the dist. cap.
I changed them to match up per my manual but now it won't start. More sleuthing I guess..


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Charlie

'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD


Posted By: MilesGray (CO/KS)
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 11:21am
Firing order on the magneto should be 1-2-4-3 from front to back.
 
And magneto should be like this
 
 
Miles


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Miles Gray (CO/KS)

5 1938 B's, 1940 B, 1944 WF C, 1948 NF C, Gleaner A, White Top Rotobaler, 1957 IH Golden Jubilee... I'm either a collector, or crazy!


Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 11:22am
On the dist. I lined up the wire:
1: Top Left
2: Top Right
3: Bottom left
4: Bottom right

I have spark on all plugs, but they are all dry now so it looks like some fuel issue has come up. Back to square one.


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Charlie

'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD


Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 4:09pm
OK, I have spark on all plugs.
I pulled the bowl and the carb and blew out the line. I hooked up the tank and I have high Flow through the line
I pulled the carb apart and checked all ports for debris, but have none, stuck it back together. Turned fuel on and let it run out the bottom of the carb drain. Installed bolt.
Cranked and I got nothing. Choke or no choke doesn't help. I have the intake off to rule that out.
Only thing that changed since it running yesterday is swapping the wires to the correct spots. I can't remember where they were though :(

What is next to try?


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Charlie

'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD


Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 4:32pm
Pulled distributor compartment cover and checked the points, they have no pitting. I tried to remove the cap itself (held on my 2 screws) but I can't get it off, how is that sealed on? I wanted to check the brush and contacts.
The plate that holds the points and condenser on has two screw that are very bunged up so someone tried to take them off at one point. Maybe they have it timed wrong? I guess that is my next step

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Charlie

'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD


Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 7:22pm
From what I could tell, the magneto gear as it was on, didn't line up to the correct marked tooth. I matched that up.
Finally got the cover off, just a little tapping popped it off. The electrodes have some pitting, but not bad.
Popped the valve cover off. Cylinder #1 had a valve stuck which popped off the push rod. Got that free and put the rod back in and that works fine now
Tomorrow I will see if it fires


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Charlie

'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD


Posted By: DREAM
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 8:39pm
Charlie,I had a problem with mine. It was getting erratic spark. I found out that someone had left the gasket out between the rotor cap and the points. It was causing the little fiber drive gear to unmesh. Cut and installed new gasket. Solved problem.
Check timing. Rotor should be pointing at plug wire socket for #1 cylinder with flywheel fire mark in the window on the left side of bellhousing. Make sure that #1 cylinder is coming up on compression stroke when fire mark is visible.
Take plug out of #1, put thumb over hole, crank engine til you feel pressure, then fire mark should be close to window. Shouldn't have to move it far. Just to make the cam isn't out of time with the crank. 
You probably already know this, but I find that seeing a list from someone else sometimes makes me remember a little detail or two that I may have missed. Good luck. 


Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 9:14pm
the previous owner my have installed the mag so that the #1 isn't at the top left. Do the timing thing as Dream said, then remove the distributor cap and look at the position of the rotor. that is #1. then install the wire around the cap in the proper order.I have already got the engine timed and then removed the mag cover, set the rotor at the
#1 indicator, and then reinstalled the cover. this will reset the dist. so the wires will be as indicated on Miles Gray's post. Good luck.
Bob



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