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D17 Series II, 3 point hitch options

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=101164
Printed Date: 21 Jan 2025 at 10:49pm
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Topic: D17 Series II, 3 point hitch options
Posted By: D17SeriesIV
Subject: D17 Series II, 3 point hitch options
Date Posted: 29 Jan 2015 at 7:40am
http://s733.photobucket.com/user/Bibo1369/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-2.jpg.html" rel="nofollow"> [/IMG]
So while I'm waiting for my float to come in, I've been contemplating adding a 3 point hitch, since all the implements I'll have access to are 3 point.
I looked up commercially available options, and so far it looks like I'm seeing different setups on some of the stock lift systems. For example, not that you can see anything in my pic, the 2 upper arms (forgive my ignorance on what all this is actually called) mine are on shafts sticking out from what looks like a rear end whereas others seem to mount to just a pivot. The question I have there, is whether or not this implies that mine may have came with a 3 point hitch, or if at least the upper arms can/are controlled hydraulically?
I've been researching the web, but apparently I'm not looking in the right places. I would prefer to build one to save some coin, but I obviously need to understand what I already have a little better before I go any further.
Thanks for your time and replies! So glad I found this forum.



Replies:
Posted By: waltw
Date Posted: 29 Jan 2015 at 8:04am
There's some good pictures on the Ok tractors web site.


Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 29 Jan 2015 at 8:06am
The series II D17's didn't have a three point hitch, all they had was the snap coupler hitch.
I'd call Tony he has three point hitches for-sale.
http://www.tonystractors.com/" rel="nofollow - http://www.tonystractors.com/


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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.



Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 29 Jan 2015 at 8:34am
Your tractor has hydraulic lift arms, YES !! To convert to a 3pt hitch style, you will continue to use those same lifting arms with 3pt hitch equipment attached to them.


Posted By: D17SeriesIV
Date Posted: 29 Jan 2015 at 9:25am
Awesome! Another annoying question, do the control arms work in conjunction with the draw bar, or via another way? Also, there is a divorced hydraulic control mounted on the left fender to operate the weirdo lift on that antique JD bush hog. Is that going to effect how I would need to operate the drawbar and/or lift. Once I get it running I'll be able to tinker with it and figure out more to avoid asking so many questions displaying my ignorance here, haha. Thanks again!


Posted By: D17SeriesIV
Date Posted: 29 Jan 2015 at 10:13am
Never mind, I read back over the earlier posts and found the answer to my question.


Posted By: D17SeriesIV
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2015 at 5:47pm
So I have been looking at and researching the 3 pt hitches on Series II, which also brings up the series' III & IV.
I've got it pretty well figured out, just have a bracket under the floorboards and a pin on the inside of the brakes/under the axle that have me curious as to their purpose and whether or not I could/should incorporate them into my 3 point setup?
I know buying one would be easier, but my Dad is a welder by trade, and uber excited about the idea of us working I it together. Anywho, here are the pics.
This is one of the brackets under the floorboard. Looks like it may be for a belly attachment, but I didn't think Series II were set up that way? Which I very well could be, and likely am, dead wrong.
http://s733.photobucket.com/user/Bibo1369/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-13.jpg.html" rel="nofollow"> [/IMG]
This is the pin that I'm just curious about. The PO is digging up the manual for me soon.
http://s733.photobucket.com/user/Bibo1369/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-16.jpg.html" rel="nofollow"> [/IMG]
Sorry for the size of the pics, I tried to make em smaller. Thanks again in advance!


Posted By: Alex (wi)
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2015 at 11:13pm
D17SeriesIV,
Is the top picture of your tractor? If so, it looks like your D17 was set up with an aftermarket three point at one time. It looks like the only thing you are missing is the lift arms? it's kinda hard to tell, but you might be pretty close by just going down to your local farm store and get the lift arms.  Your set up looks similar to what is on my Series III D17.  Otherwise, your best bet is going to be finding any holes that are already cast into the rearend housing, and building your frame from there.  It looks like the hitch you have is a good start.

~Alex


Posted By: redowns
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2015 at 8:26am
We had a D17 in the early 60's that had that piece on it in the first picture. It came with a mounted AC mower. Can not recall the model number , maybe it was 72. It was a snap coupler mower, but needed a third point to hook to.


Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2015 at 10:00am
http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/uploads/2752/D17_3_point.jpg" rel="nofollow - http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/uploads/2752/D17_3_point.jpg

Look at mine. You have everything but lower lift arms.

There are lift arms that were made to clip right into the snap-coupler... looks like a big wishbone.

I made mine by using aftermarket lift arms from the farm store, and just welded up a bracket to hold the tractor-end of the arms.

You already have the top-link bracket, you'll need a top-link and pins from the farm store, but you're 90% done...

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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.


Posted By: John (MO)
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2015 at 11:07am
I'd suggest you look at a conversion for the D-17 made by Cross Mfg. Yes you could certainly design and build your own 3 point conversion lift arms, however there is a lot of geometry to try and figure out. The pivot points for the lower arms as well as the upper link all need to work together correctly or your implements will lift at strange and unworkable angles and even bind up, lock and not work at all. Trust me it's a lot easier to buy a tried and true, well engineered conversion than to try and make a homemade conversion work properly. While it may not be rocket science, getting the pivot points in the wrong place or the arms too long or short, will be an adventure in frustration that will have you thinking about the economics of buying well engineered parts.


Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2015 at 4:16pm
Originally posted by John (MO) John (MO) wrote:

... there is a lot of geometry to try and figure out. The pivot points for the lower arms as well as the upper link all need to work together correctly or your implements will lift at strange and unworkable angles and even bind up, lock and not work at all. Trust me it's a lot easier to buy a tried and true, well engineered conversion than to try and make a homemade conversion work properly.


Apparently it's easier for some to figure out the geometry and build, than others. It's certainly easier for some to throw money at a problem, than it is to posses conviction, and exercise skills on their own behest.

Here's my local farm supply store:
http://www.farmandfleet.com/farm-livestock/equipment-parts/tractor-parts/3-point-hitch-supplies/

He needs two generic lift arms, $40 each. Two pins @ $5 each, one adjustable lift link, $26, one top link, $27, and some snap pins. $150, or you might already have 'em lying around from another tractor.

The bracket underneath certainly ain't rocket science. Cut the tube and plates to space the arms out about 24", and put their front pivots about 10" in front of the back edge of the PTO shaft, and about 12" down from it. In this vicinity, the drawbar will still slip in and use the snap lock, making the traction-booster functional.

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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.


Posted By: D17SeriesIV
Date Posted: 09 Feb 2015 at 10:23pm
Thanks fellas! A lot of food for thought there. That is my tractor in the pics. Someone had said it looked like a Speeco 3pt setup, but I can't find a pic, spec or anything for a D17 3pt made by Speeco. I got her running today, posted another topic on it. Only thing I didn't get to test was the hydraulics, I unhooked the bush hog to set my draw bar correctly. Just curious, is it always a pain to hook up a SC bush hog?


Posted By: Rusty942630
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2018 at 5:24am
I'm going to build a 3 point like you did. What size generic bars legnth did you get. I cant find the ones with multiple holes around here.


Posted By: dawntreader74
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2018 at 6:25pm
i have a 3 point with all the parts for AC; if needed i will sell it ? $300oo


Posted By: Brian G. NY
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2018 at 8:26am
My D-17 came with a home-built 3 PH adapter.
Not the greatest but the anti sway system using those adjustable arms works really well on heavy equipment like a Bush Hog.



Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2018 at 8:31am
If you're expecting any of the 3pt adapters to work like a 3pt hitch on a tractor that
came with a factory 3pt you'll be disappointed.


Posted By: MikeH
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2018 at 11:43am
I would like to buy so please call me. 253-232-2085


Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2018 at 8:45pm
Sway blocks are something most aftermarket 3pt hitches don't have and are real important on a 3pt.       MACK


Posted By: john(MI)
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2018 at 9:43pm
My Saginaw 3 point has an outstanding anti sway system, problem is, they quit making them.  If you can find one it is your best choice.  I should probably get a pic or 2 of it for these kind of questions.


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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446



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