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410 shuttle no fire

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Garden Tractors
Forum Description: A great place to discuss the Simplicity and Allis Chalmers Garden Models
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=100209
Printed Date: 26 Nov 2024 at 4:38am
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Topic: 410 shuttle no fire
Posted By: A-Cvtx
Subject: 410 shuttle no fire
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2015 at 3:17pm
Hello! New member here. I just bought a 410 shuttle. The previous owner has swapped out the original motor for a 12 hp. That's not a big deal to me, what's stumping me is no fire on the plug. I've checked all electrical connections. The only thing I've found is what I believe to be an incorrect solenoid. My 312 has a "one post" while this one has a "two post". In other words, a post for starter and a post for ignition. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks!



Replies:
Posted By: Randy Richesin
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2015 at 10:39pm
Do you have a no crank problem or a no fire/no spark problem? If it is no crank I can get you a pic of my two post solenoid setup with the wire colors.
If no fire or spark the black single wire from the harness just outside the firewall on the left side is your coil wire from the switch. You also have a neutral saftey switch just under the seat. You can put a jumper in the plug to test this.

Mine is a 416S but they both use the same harness. I took three harnesses to make one and it took two days to get everything figured out.


Posted By: A-Cvtx
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2015 at 6:48am
No fire on the plug. At first it wouldn't turn over and I figured out p.o. had attached starter wire to the ignition side of the solenoid. I hooked that up and the starter works by the switch now. Right now there's no wire on the ignition side of solenoid. A picture/diagram of your set up would be great! Thanks! Neutral safety switch under seat has been jumped already, looks like permanently but I will check it anyway.


Posted By: Randy Richesin
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2015 at 2:49pm
Here are the pics. The purple wire hooked to the solenoid is the trigger wire from the switch. The Red wire is the hot feed to the switch. The one big black cable is the hot from the battery and the other side goes to the starter. The pic of the wiring harness coming out of the firewall shows the one black wire that goes to the hot side of the coil. The factory location for the coil is the left side of the engine and the black wire is just long enough to reach the coil from the harness. I took a pic of the wiring diagram from my manual so that might help.

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Posted By: A-Cvtx
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2015 at 2:59pm
Thanks very much! I already see some things the p.o. had wrong. Pics and diagram will definitely help! Thanks!


Posted By: Randy Richesin
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2015 at 3:22pm
I have a factory manual on the 300/400 series so if you need any info or pics let me know and I can look them up for you.


Posted By: A-Cvtx
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2015 at 1:08pm
Ok, so I'm still with no fire on plug after making sure everything was wired according to pic and schematic. On a whim I checked the points. I can make fire at plug with a jumper wire accross points, but not while spinning motor over. Points have power coming in by test light. Took points out and played with them using jumper wire and battery. When they are closed, I have power. When open, I have no power accross points. Seems the points function as they should, just not when mounted. Suggestions?


Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2015 at 1:27pm
The two post solenoid should work fine. You just won't use the other post is all. Spray a little Brakekleen in the points. Might be just oxidized up a bit from Mother Nature. Make sure the coil is gapped correctly on the flywheel to. The wifes B110 one day just decided not to start. Spun over fine, just wouldn't fire up. Turned out it was the coil. Sometimes things just take a dump for no reason at all...
Steve@B&B

-------------
39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife


Posted By: Randy Richesin
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2015 at 2:10pm
When you turn the switch on you have power to the positive side of coil? The points wire is hooked to the negative side of the coil? The condensor is mounted tight and hooked to the negative side of the coil?

I kind of think you might have a coil or condensor problem. If you have a known good coil and condensor handy swap them out and see if that works. If you have a multi-meter you can alway test the coil to see if it is bad. I got lit up once checking a condensor so I just replace them :)


Posted By: A-Cvtx
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2015 at 2:39pm
Points! New points and VRROOOM!!! She runs! She drives! Needs a little tweaking from not running in years but MAN! She's alive and running!! Thanks for everyone's help!



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