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Pole barn build

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BrianC View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BrianC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Nov 2019 at 4:15pm
18x18 should fit two smaller tractors side by side. I think you could even have a mower attached on the 3 point. Yeah go high as could be. If at your mothers place check that you won't accidentally burden her with the taxman.

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Levibridge95 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Levibridge95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Nov 2019 at 10:53am
Update. Dug my holes today and hit rocks bigger then the hole at 2' below ground level. Btw in my area frost level is about 2' according to my township neighbor. 2 methods I could do here: (1) pour concrete directly on top of the stone and build off that or (2) do the original plan with the laminated 2x6 boards and pour concrete in the hole around it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Nov 2019 at 11:07am
hmm, could you drill 2-3 holes in rock, epoxy rebar in and then pour concrete in sonotube ?

gee 2' frost line...nice.. up here it's 4' and posthole diggers are 3'4" !!!
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Levibridge95 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Levibridge95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Nov 2019 at 12:54pm
Originally posted by jaybmiller jaybmiller wrote:

hmm, could you drill 2-3 holes in rock, epoxy rebar in and then pour concrete in sonotube ?

gee 2' frost line...nice.. up here it's 4' and posthole diggers are 3'4" !!!
that's an idea I didn't think of. No idea how deep or wide the rock is also. Also thought of filling the hole with concrete and put a all-thread rod in it when it's still wet. Then lay a 4x6 on top of it going from pier to pier as the bottom part of the wall.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Nov 2019 at 1:56pm
I would thing the concrete poured on top of the rock with the laminated 2 x 6 in it would be fine.. Do 1 or 2 and test... The rocks can be considered part of the footer.   Your going to nail a base board from post to post at the bottom to screw the tin sideing to.. and  a couple horizontals on the posts part way up the wall.. That should lock everything together.... might nail a couple diagonals on the inside at 45 degree angles to stiffen it up until the tin is on the walls... or could also leave the diagonals forever.

Edited by steve(ill) - 30 Nov 2019 at 2:04pm
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chaskaduo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chaskaduo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Nov 2019 at 2:17pm
Jay you get all the breaks. Wink
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Levibridge95 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Levibridge95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Nov 2019 at 3:12pm
Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:


I would thing the concrete poured on top of the rock with the laminated 2 x 6 in it would be fine.. Do 1 or 2 and test... The rocks can be considered part of the footer.
  Your going to nail a base board from post to post at the bottom to screw the tin sideing to.. and  a couple horizontals on the posts part way up the wall.. That should lock everything together.... might nail a couple diagonals on the inside at 45 degree angles to stiffen it up until the tin is on the walls... or could also leave the diagonals forever.

I was planning on trying one out just to see how it worked out. Will keep y'all updated!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Dec 2019 at 10:56pm
The greatest advantage of laminating your posts from 2" lumber, is the fact that you will have better CONSISTENCY, and better uninterrupted strength... or in EngineerSpeak:  A more consistent dimension, and more predictable section modulus.  Why?

Let's say you build a building with 14 solid wood post 12ft long...
At least ONE of those posts will have a knot in it.  Probably more posts, and probably more than one knot... and eventually, as the post driesand ages, it will distort.

When you take three planks, and sandwich them together, ALL the planks will have knots, but they're only going through 2" of the full 6" assembly... because it's LAMINATED, right?
Now also, because it's been cut thinner, it will be more flexible on it's narrow dimension.  When you make your laminated post, you will SEE the check and bow, and SELECT planks that complement eachother to yield a 'more true' post.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Levibridge95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2019 at 7:32am
I like the idea of doing laminated post but code says it cant be buried in the concrete anymore. Got confirmation on that. Any anchors I could use to still do a laminated beams on top of the concrete?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2019 at 7:47am
German Timber framer up here drilled into rocks(6"), epoxied rebars, short sonotube, filled with concrete, wait a day, drill hole, epoxy into hole to secure saddle with rebar.
I'd laminate 3- 2by 6's ...glued( PL Premium) and screwed every foot. Be sure to alternate the boards , grain wise ,though... ()(   NOT ((( or ))) , looking from end.
If you lasersight the sonotubes, no shims necessary and saddles line up !
Jay
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Levibridge95 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Levibridge95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2019 at 9:29am
Originally posted by jaybmiller jaybmiller wrote:

German Timber framer up here drilled into rocks(6"), epoxied rebars, short sonotube, filled with concrete, wait a day, drill hole, epoxy into hole to secure saddle with rebar.
I'd laminate 3- 2by 6's ...glued( PL Premium) and screwed every foot. Be sure to alternate the boards , grain wise ,though... ()(   NOT ((( or ))) , looking from end.
If you lasersight the sonotubes, no shims necessary and saddles line up !
Jay
do you have a picture so i have a visual?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2019 at 9:58am
OK, here's a sketch. drill 2 holes into rock, epoxy rebar into it 4" minimum,put down sonotube,backfill,pour concrete into tube.if ,IF, you're real good about sonotubes being 'laser level', push saddle into wet concrete,otherwise wait 1 day ,then layout,drill, epoxy saddles in. You can upside down 'L' shape the rebar, should hold better.8" sonotube for more strength,say 2 bags worth of concrete. more is better...
Jay
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2019 at 10:10am
Guess this all depends on what exactly is meant by "rock".
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Levibridge95 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Levibridge95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2019 at 4:29pm
Won't be able to use concrete to wood base anchors on laminated beams because I would be 1" thin for a 6x6 and .5" to big for a 4x6. Any ideas.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Thad in AR. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2019 at 4:37pm
Originally posted by Levibridge95 Levibridge95 wrote:

Won't be able to use concrete to wood base anchors on laminated beams because I would be 1" thin for a 6x6 and .5" to big for a 4x6. Any ideas.

Use the 4 by 6 and just use 3 sides. Cut the folded side off.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2019 at 5:03pm
Laminate a 5/4 PT  'deck board' with the 3 - 2 by 6.
A 'deck board' is true 1" so... 1.5+1.5+1+1.5=5.5" same as 6 by 6

glued and screwed, stronger then solid 6by6.

Jay
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Levibridge95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2019 at 6:37pm
Ok. Thanks to your advice I got the problem figured out so now I can buy the material and get building soon.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stan IL&TN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2019 at 9:51am
My only suggestion is that you can easily build the trusses on the ground by making a template so that each one is exactly the same. I used several sheets of plywood all attached to each other to make a wood base. Build the first truss on top of the base and when I you are happy with the dimensions of the first truss use some scrap pieces of 2x4's and screw them down onto the base so the truss is outlined. This will make sure as you build the next truss that it is exactly the same size and angle as all the rest. This will be important as you get ready to install the face boards.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Levibridge95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2019 at 11:05am
Originally posted by Stan IL&TN Stan IL&TN wrote:

My only suggestion is that you can easily build the trusses on the ground by making a template so that each one is exactly the same. I used several sheets of plywood all attached to each other to make a wood base. Build the first truss on top of the base and when I you are happy with the dimensions of the first truss use some scrap pieces of 2x4's and screw them down onto the base so the truss is outlined. This will make sure as you build the next truss that it is exactly the same size and angle as all the rest. This will be important as you get ready to install the face boards.

I ordered trusses from superior trusses in Ephrata pa for $65 a piece.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2019 at 12:17pm
Just remember roof trusses are NOT designed to carry weight on the bottom chord !! They're ONLY designed to carry weight on the top chords ( the roof )...
Yeah, I can show you why.. a busted truss next door from some 'contractor' who tossed 100s of ##s of 'extra' stuff onto a ceiling supported by the trusses.

Jay
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chaskaduo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2019 at 4:11pm
Them dang contractors, they know it all don't they.  Pinch
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2019 at 4:21pm
yeah... HIS diesel 5KW heater for the wife's greenhouse sucked almost 10 Litres of fuel last night ! Somehow THAT is MY fault....sigh....
$14 of diesel.....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Levibridge95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2019 at 5:11pm
I do garage doors and was putting decorative hardware on the front. Because they are purely decorative and not to be used, they're only held in with small screws that will rip out if you pull on them. I told the contractor in plain English "Do not use pull on the handles!! They will rip out." Guess what Mr. Contractor did 10 minutes later? Used the handle to pull down the door. Didnt do Any damage but i gave him an earful.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Levibridge95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2019 at 1:22pm
Got my holes dug and lumber ordered. Had to rent a mt52 and was able to power thru the rocks. Now i just have to wait until I can find time to proceed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chaskaduo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2019 at 2:40pm

Auger Attachment Bobcat MT52



Edited by chaskaduo - 07 Dec 2019 at 2:40pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Levibridge95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2019 at 2:51pm
Originally posted by chaskaduo chaskaduo wrote:



<div ="summary entry-summary"><h1 ="product_title entry-title" itemprop="name">Auger Attachment Bobcat MT52</h1>

yep. Should have went for it in the first place. Would have saved a lot of time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Clay Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2019 at 8:38am
Make sure you call 811 Dig Safe, before you dig.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Levibridge95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Dec 2019 at 9:57pm
Holes are dug but it keeps raining on the days that im available to pour. Planning on building my posts tomorrow on the porch out of the rain. So once i get the concrete done I can move along at a good pace.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cabinhollow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2019 at 7:41am
Originally posted by Clay Clay wrote:

Make sure you call 811 Dig Safe, before you dig.

Here a few years ago, the city utility crew were digging a water line up.
They were within 100' of a call be for you dig sign.
They hit and cut a gas main.
These are the guys, that if you called, would be the ones to mark the lines for you.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimNearFortWorth Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2019 at 9:22am
Years ago on the dairy back east, decision made to have a pole barn built and dealers were brought in for discussions. Money was tight but dad wanted it big enough plus some extra room. Banker advised they would give X amount (yes, back when bankers really got their nose into your business on everything they were loaning on) and banker wanted it smaller than planned, a "citybot" that was raised in town.
Spring came and we pulled every piece of equipment out of winter storage, haymow, old wooden buildings and lean-to sheds. Getting all equipment lubed up and checked for use, every piece was parked where the new pole barn was planned and a call was made to the "banker" to come on out. He insisted his plan for a smaller building would work until he was reminded that we also planned an extended downside on one side for 50 heifers, and 10,000 bales of hay.
Dad said for years after it was put up, "still not big enough, they never are" . . . . .
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