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pin/bushing info needed for HD3 loader |
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donw ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 27 Dec 2009 Location: Washington Points: 43 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 01 Oct 2010 at 10:13am |
Now that the engine is rebuilt, the only thing left to do to my machine is rebuild or change all the pins and/or bushings for the loader arms. They are very sloppy and completely worn out. I've never read anything on replacing/rebuilding these so I'm looking for opinions and information in general regarding what the process is and if anyone knows if aftermarket or original pins and bushings are available.
At first glance it looks like if both the pins and bushings need to be replaced, then I will need to cut all the weld and remove the bushings. That is a lot of work! This is my starting point and welcome any input. This is a 1963 HD3. Don ![]() |
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R-1 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 28 Sep 2010 Location: Wa. Points: 5 |
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Can't help you with the pins and bushings but great job on getting that AC looking like new.
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Kipn ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Tewksbury, Ma Points: 800 |
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I was thinking the same thing last night. ALL my pivot points are worn and sloppy. There is no bushing in them to replace. The pins would be a bear to get off and replace. Thought of weld build up and grinding but I don't think that I can grind it round. When you find out how to tighten things up, let me know.
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1961 H3
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john(MI) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: SE MI Points: 9262 |
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My neighbor friend used to do those. He had a welder that would weld around in circles all the way thru, then a boring machine setup to rebore it to the correct size. He just bought regular round stock steel and cut pins to length. If just the pins are worn, you might be able to snug it up with new pins.
He always said with a smile; "Those darn grease worms always eat the grease outta them"!!! LOL!!!
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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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DMiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Hermann, Mo Points: 33108 |
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Should be able to remove the linkages and order bulk stock for pins, I would order rough dimension hot rolled or 304 stainless and have it final machined to size, as for bushings, ordering round stock bronze from a machine supply house as Online metals:http: //www.onlinemetals.com/ ( they have bearing bronze tube) and have a machine shop bore the arms for bushings then make your own. Stick to common dimensions or refab the OE pin size and adapt bushings to the crawler.
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Coke-in-MN ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Afton MN Points: 41817 |
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Bushings are steel and the arms are bored to size, if the bushing is worn through so arm is worn then welding up and reboreing is the option. Or bore oversize and fit new bushing to new bore.
Pins can be made from plated stock or cold rolled stock .
Should be no cutting or welding on just doing bushings, lest the use of grinder to split worn bushings if in bore tight, but in most cases they can be driven out.
I rebushed both my 715B hoe and the loader also the loader on my HD4 , just drive out and drive in new . Edited by Coke-in-MN - 01 Oct 2010 at 4:11pm |
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
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Kipn ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Tewksbury, Ma Points: 800 |
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So, I am to believe that my 1961 H3 has bushings in the loader frame?
Edited by Kipn - 03 Oct 2010 at 10:15am |
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1961 H3
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Coke-in-MN ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Afton MN Points: 41817 |
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99&100% sure they are there , least when machine was made.
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
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Kipn ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Tewksbury, Ma Points: 800 |
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Thanks Coke. Is that in all pivot points or just certian ones? Like the bucket that has pressed in pins, as opposed to the arms?
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1961 H3
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Coke-in-MN ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Afton MN Points: 41817 |
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Your bucket is a 4 in 1 bucket and a aftermarket unit. It should also have bushings in all points. Most pins are rifle drilled for grease fittings.
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
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donw ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 27 Dec 2009 Location: Washington Points: 43 |
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Wow! Lots of responses. I have one pin that is broken in half and can be removed easily enough. I'll take it out and see what's left of the bushing and go from there. I'll post pictures of what I find. It seems the consensus is that unless the bushing is completely worn away and the hole egged out, just replacing rolled stock should fix things nicely. I've also wondered how much work would be involved with buying oversize rolled stock and then reaming the holes larger.
Don |
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Coke-in-MN ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Afton MN Points: 41817 |
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Bushings have a wall thickness and are hard material , most are not reamable as I know it . making pins I have used lot of material from hardened stock to CRS shafts cut to size.
In loader frame on my IH 460 I used oil-lite bushings at bucket mount point and reduced the pins size , used plated shaft , and it has held up well, then it doesn't get the heavy use like a track machine gets. In fact i bushed ends of loader frame from 1 1/4" pin down to 1" using 2 bushings . I did have to ream the last hole as i had to drive bushings in but the brass was easy to get to size.
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
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Rawleigh ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: White Stone, VA Points: 421 |
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Check Mcmaster Carr for bushings.
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Kipn ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Tewksbury, Ma Points: 800 |
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1961 H3
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donw ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 27 Dec 2009 Location: Washington Points: 43 |
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I did some more poking around and it doesn't look good...about half of the pins are welded on one side rather than having a rolled pin or bolt on both sides of the pin. The bushings, from what I can tell are more of a sleeve that is welded in place on both sides so it can't turn. The pins are indeed hardened steel but don't look like they are anything special. I have about 16 pin/bushing that need repair. I really don't think the sleeves are hardened steel. They look exactly like the sleeves that were on an old 1963 Case 310 I used to have. Although it is a lot of work, it looks like I need to cut away the weld and remove each pin. Then purchase some new rolled stock that is slightly larger in size and have the sleeves/bushings reamed for the oversize stock. If this machine was going to work in a quarry full-time, I wouldn't even consider reaming the bushings/sleeves because the wall thickness would be less than original. However, for the little I use it, reaming the bushings/sleeves should last my lifetime. If the bushings/sleeves are hardened steel and/or I can't ream them, then I'll have to cut the welds on both sides of the sleeve to remove them and then mate a new sleeve to a new pin.
-or-
I could just leave things as they are, but that wouldn't be any fun now would it?
Don
edited for spelling errors Edited by donw - 05 Oct 2010 at 4:39am |
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Kipn ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Tewksbury, Ma Points: 800 |
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I also looked closer last night and could't tell if there was any bushings or not. Cleaned areas and scraped paint on several pivots. Didn't see any welds on the side to hold bushings in either. Could be the eyes are bad or they're just not there. Would of really liked to have them to tighten them up.
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1961 H3
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