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Ben (MI) 
Orange Level
Joined: 02 Jun 2010
Location: SW Lower MI
Points: 767
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 Topic: Pickup paint question
Posted: 09 Aug 2018 at 5:42am |
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My beloved 04 Ram 2500 has what I believe is the beginning of the common iron moth damage above the wheel well. Two bubbles have suddenly appeared. The inside is still solid. What can I do to stop or slow down the rust? The other side is fine, since the panel was new last year. I ask myself, why didn't I put a flat bed on it instead of replacing the panel??? I plan to update trucks soon. Thanks.
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Part time farming with a 1980 7060 and 1984 F3 hydro.
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jaybmiller
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 24655
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Posted: 09 Aug 2018 at 6:05am |
You'll have to get down to bare metal, at least 3" more along the lip and say 2" above. Use a 'metal prep' product to 'acid etch'. Use an epoxy primer, then base/clear. Be sure to clean out ALL drain holes and oil spray 3 times( 1 / week) before November. Yes, it's a lot of work and needs to be done right but if you don't , them 'moths' will come back with a vengence !
Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Ben (MI)
Orange Level
Joined: 02 Jun 2010
Location: SW Lower MI
Points: 767
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Posted: 09 Aug 2018 at 8:23am |
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Thank you Jay! I will get after it.
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Part time farming with a 1980 7060 and 1984 F3 hydro.
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CaseyCreek
Silver Level
Joined: 03 Apr 2011
Location: L.A.
Points: 332
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Posted: 09 Aug 2018 at 12:59pm |
I think you were on to something with the flatbed.
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D17 Series III,D17 Series IV, 185
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john(MI)
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: SE MI
Points: 9262
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Posted: 09 Aug 2018 at 1:26pm |
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If you did happen to go to a flatbed, DO NOT tell the MI DMV. It will be way more expensive for plates!
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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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DMiller
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Hermann, Mo
Points: 33874
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Posted: 09 Aug 2018 at 2:12pm |
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My own '99 F250 SD has succumbed to the Iron Moth rampage, we call it Salt Cancer down here. I am not willing to expend the finances to replace all four doors, the cab corners and work on the rocker panels as has over 340,000 miles, just not worth more than run it til the wheels fall off at 20 years new.
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LouSWPA
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Clinton, Pa
Points: 25077
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Posted: 09 Aug 2018 at 2:44pm |
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I have used 'rust converter' on several projects with some success. you do not need to get to bare metal. On heavy stuff, frames and such I use an air scaler from Harbor Freight, then a quick wire wheeling. Mind you, Im talking about quick passes, you just need to knock the loose stuff off. If it is light material, sheet metal I skip the scaler and just do a quick wire wheel, blow it off with air and brush on the rust converter as per product instructions. Since none of my jobs were cosmetic, truck frame, mower deck, etc, I used Rustoleum primer and paint. worked well for me.
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I am still confident of this;
I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.
Wait for the Lord;
be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 87626
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Posted: 09 Aug 2018 at 5:54pm |
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I have done similar to what Lou said.. If you can get to BARE METAL then primer and paint, OK.. If you have pits and rust that remains, then I paint it with a CONVERTER that will turn the rust BLACK and HARD... Then I or paint a primer over it ... maybe a thin layer of body putty, then primer and paint... Not a great plan if your buying expensive paint, but if your touching up the edge of a fender or bottom of the door, this will work with rattle can paint.......... expect it to start showing thru again in 12- 18 months.. I have a CREW cab that the drivers back door has had problems at the bottom lip. Rather than cut out and weld in new panels, I put on the converter / putty / rattle can paint and do this every 12 months.. Takes maybe 1-2 hours and I have done it 3-4 times in 4 years.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Prairie City Ia
Points: 10508
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Posted: 09 Aug 2018 at 10:36pm |
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I'm rebuilding a 68 Torino and I can say wherever you see a bubble, there is a bunch more you can't see. If you can't get behind it to clean it off, it will be back in short order. You either have to clean it off by media blasting or cutting off the rusted areas and replacing.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Ken in Texas
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Henderson, TX
Points: 5919
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Posted: 10 Aug 2018 at 5:33am |
I'm currently doing a body off restoration of my 1952 Willys Overland 4x4 Pickup. Going back stock. Paint color was originally a dark green. Thinking a 2018 Jeep Red would be cool. Never drove anything RED. What say you?
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Dave H
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Central IL
Points: 3583
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Posted: 10 Aug 2018 at 7:47am |
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My experience is that little bulge in the paint is just the tip of the ice berg. I think you got some good replies here. i m a fan of that rust converter.
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tadams(OH)
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Joined: 17 Sep 2009
Location: Jeromesville, O
Points: 10872
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Posted: 10 Aug 2018 at 2:31pm |
Usually a bubble is a pin hole and you need to get to the other side to clean and stop it
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 24655
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Posted: 10 Aug 2018 at 4:14pm |
Ken, red is an offical colour for the Willys... I have the ad hanging up on my wall. You ken probably find the paint code somewhere using Google.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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