Oil in intake, ports

1967D 17 series 4 gas. Recently purchased the tractor it was left outside and had water down the exhaust and got stuck took the head off freed up the pistons and got things moving again. Had one valve stuck, cleaned all the valves up and put them back in the head and relaped them. Started up easy was running good, and all of a sudden started running like it was rich. Noticed there was an oil substance leaking out between the port, on the head intake port on the head and the manifold mating surfaces. Any ideas? Thank you.

1945 WC on full steel, WD wide front, WD45 power steering, 1966 D-17IVfactory 3 point.1967 D-17IV SC. 1973 rotobaler white top. orange top roto, model 90 combine,82S, four bottom plow.302 baler.

The carburetors been clean and put back together

1945 WC on full steel, WD wide front, WD45 power steering, 1966 D-17IVfactory 3 point.1967 D-17IV SC. 1973 rotobaler white top. orange top roto, model 90 combine,82S, four bottom plow.302 baler.

Yeah, if it's leaking out between the manifold and the head, that's a good indication that the manifold-to-head fitment isn't tight enough to seal... so a significant leak.

A firm determination of what the leakage IS is necessary. Is it oil, fuel, condensation, or coolant? If oil, it wouldn't be from a valve stem, as it would have to go against the airflow path... Hud's onto the most likely source- the oil-bath air cleaner...

But the two things you must not do- first, don't predispose yourself to the two circumstances (running rough, and the leakage) being intimately related. It may by a shared symptom, but it may not... and second, don't assume that just because you've been through a component, that it is perfect.

In the case of the carbeurator, it is not uncommon for a float to go through a complete cleaning and reassembly, only to develop a leak after running a bit... in fact, it is quite common for a spot in the brass (typically down low) to become thinned out and pitted by electrolytic corrosion, but not enough to fail in testing, but after some running, give up and start leaking gasoline INTO the float... and eventually it's not a float anymore.

Pull off the oil bath, and see how it runs... if it doesn't change, drop the bowl WITHOUT draining it first... lift out the float and shake it... see if it's become fuel-logged.

Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.

Hmmm... good point....

Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.

They were 99+% efficient in their advertising and far better in the real world because no one ever serviced the oil bath types often enough.

“Oil substance” might be rich fuel dissolving old oil/carbon residues inside intake?? “Fixed stuck valve”, yeah probably means worn valve guides where condensation could corrode items together?
Keep looking. You’ll locate the source & then some.
Great tractors those D17s with their G226. Congratulations on having one of them, especially a Series IV.

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jlogli Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Oct 2011 Location: Stockport, IA Points: 856	Post Options Post Reply Quote jlogli Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Oil in intake, ports Posted: 25 Feb 2024 at 3:51pm
	1967D 17 series 4 gas. Recently purchased the tractor it was left outside and had water down the exhaust and got stuck took the head off freed up the pistons and got things moving again. Had one valve stuck, cleaned all the valves up and put them back in the head and relaped them. Started up easy was running good, and all of a sudden started running like it was rich. Noticed there was an oil substance leaking out between the port, on the head intake port on the head and the manifold mating surfaces. Any ideas? Thank you.
	1945 WC on full steel, WD wide front, WD45 power steering, 1966 D-17IVfactory 3 point.1967 D-17IV SC. 1973 rotobaler white top. orange top roto, model 90 combine,82S, four bottom plow.302 baler.

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tbran Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Paris Tn Points: 3294	Post Options Post Reply Quote tbran Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 25 Feb 2024 at 8:29pm
	Well, it could be running rich.... float stuck or one lobe full of fuel, usually symptom is starts good and has blackish smoke. Oil smoke is blue.. due to rings or valvestem / valveguide wear. Diagnose and pull the manifold - you need gaskets anyway - look and see if valves are oily...
	When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..

jlogli Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Oct 2011 Location: Stockport, IA Points: 856	Post Options Post Reply Quote jlogli Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 25 Feb 2024 at 8:32pm
	The carburetors been clean and put back together
	1945 WC on full steel, WD wide front, WD45 power steering, 1966 D-17IVfactory 3 point.1967 D-17IV SC. 1973 rotobaler white top. orange top roto, model 90 combine,82S, four bottom plow.302 baler.

HudCo Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 29 Jan 2013 Location: Plymouth Utah Points: 3536	Post Options Post Reply Quote HudCo Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 26 Feb 2024 at 9:28pm
	i f that is a oilbath air cleaner make sure it isnt over full with water in the bottom

DaveKamp Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Apr 2010 Location: LeClaire, Ia Points: 5754	Post Options Post Reply Quote DaveKamp Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 29 Feb 2024 at 7:03am
	Yeah, if it's leaking out between the manifold and the head, that's a good indication that the manifold-to-head fitment isn't tight enough to seal... so a significant leak. A firm determination of what the leakage IS is necessary. Is it oil, fuel, condensation, or coolant? If oil, it wouldn't be from a valve stem, as it would have to go against the airflow path... Hud's onto the most likely source- the oil-bath air cleaner... But the two things you must not do- first, don't predispose yourself to the two circumstances (running rough, and the leakage) being intimately related. It may by a shared symptom, but it may not... and second, don't assume that just because you've been through a component, that it is perfect. In the case of the carbeurator, it is not uncommon for a float to go through a complete cleaning and reassembly, only to develop a leak after running a bit... in fact, it is quite common for a spot in the brass (typically down low) to become thinned out and pitted by electrolytic corrosion, but not enough to fail in testing, but after some running, give up and start leaking gasoline INTO the float... and eventually it's not a float anymore. Pull off the oil bath, and see how it runs... if it doesn't change, drop the bowl WITHOUT draining it first... lift out the float and shake it... see if it's become fuel-logged.
	Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.

DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20485	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 29 Feb 2024 at 7:25am
	He claims it to be a series 4. They had a dry-type air cleaner/filter system unless someone has changed it.

DaveKamp Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Apr 2010 Location: LeClaire, Ia Points: 5754	Post Options Post Reply Quote DaveKamp Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 29 Feb 2024 at 10:05pm
	Hmmm... good point....
	Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.

WF owner Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 4664	Post Options Post Reply Quote WF owner Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Mar 2024 at 7:26am
	I apologize for being completely off-topic here, but how did the newer replaceable dry air filters (like in the Series IV) compare to the older oil bath filters, like on the WD, B, C, etc.? I'm talking about actually cleaning the air for the engine.

DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20485	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Mar 2024 at 7:41am
	They were 99+% efficient in their advertising and far better in the real world because no one ever serviced the oil bath types often enough.

tbran Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Paris Tn Points: 3294	Post Options Post Reply Quote tbran Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Mar 2024 at 7:50am
	Aw come on Doc - I never pulled the cup down on an oil bath cleaner and found 2" of mud in the bottom and oil sloshing out of the ring.... :-) We sold Long tractors and had one customer call up and tell us some idiot put oil in his air breather and wanted a new inner metal filter.
	When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..

AC7060IL Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 19 Aug 2012 Location: central IL Points: 3340	Post Options Post Reply Quote AC7060IL Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Mar 2024 at 8:12am
	“Oil substance” might be rich fuel dissolving old oil/carbon residues inside intake?? “Fixed stuck valve”, yeah probably means worn valve guides where condensation could corrode items together? Keep looking. You’ll locate the source & then some. Great tractors those D17s with their G226. Congratulations on having one of them, especially a Series IV.