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Non allis— what clutch in Dodge?

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allisbred View Drop Down
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Joined: 28 Mar 2015
Location: Hanover Pa
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allisbred Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Non allis— what clutch in Dodge?
    Posted: 18 Jan 2019 at 3:59pm
Have some throw out bearing noise in my ‘06 Dodge 3500. May need to change soon and thinking about changing the clutch as it wants to chatter backing up with heavy loads more than I like. Anyone with advice?.
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Red Bank View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Red Bank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan 2019 at 4:57pm
If it's a Cummins I recommend South Bend
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allisbred Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan 2019 at 5:32pm
Yes, guess I should have said what it is. Cummins 5.9 HO dually 4 wheel drive 4.5 rear gears(I think)w/9’ flat bed about 135k miles. Gets worse when my combo weight is 20k plus backing uphill at any angle. Some guys have said they use 4 low but I can’t think what that would do to the front axle over time. Seems like the fuel pump opens up a little which adds to the problem in my opinion.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HD6GTOM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan 2019 at 9:27pm
The factory clutch disk in my 1 ton dually service truck, same year as yours, was put together with plastic rivets. No joke, I made sure the reconditioned one that went back in had the heavy duty disk. You might want to check it out. Mine popped the rivets.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chaskaduo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan 2019 at 10:14pm
Plastic rivets in the clutch assembly wow. What next sponge for brake linings and pads? Censored
1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bradleytrench Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan 2019 at 11:18pm
I had a south bend dual disc in my 03. I hated it. I went through 3 6th gear blocker rings and 1 main shaft. The flywheel pilot bearing runout was .012 out of center. So it whipped the input shaft causing transmission failure.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan 2019 at 5:23am
I also have had a bad experience with South Bend: I have 2 different first Generation diesels and installed their recommended clutches in both of them,  One day my wife call and the 89 just quit moving. The pressed together center had just stripped out. The disc was made in China. When I called South Bend, their answer was " We don't sell Chinese parts and anyway it's out of warrenty". when I sent them pictures of the disc clearly marked "Made in China" I never got a reply. Nothing was worn , Flywheel still looked as it was just re-surfaced and pressure plate looked like new, even the disc lining itself measured about what it did before it was installed. I got a HD  FORD disc from Rick Corder and it has been fine.



Edited by PaulB - 19 Jan 2019 at 5:25am
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Peterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan 2019 at 5:36am
I got a clutch from Rick for my 99 ram. Love it. If you want to step up to a dual disc, dont bother with the junk south bends. Get a valair clutch. Put a dual behind our 06 Cummins and love it. One problem with the newer trucks with the G56 manuals are the stupid dual mass flywheel. If you go to just a single disc, get a solid flywheel conversion and a nv5600 clutch. Then dump the junk atf out that's in it and get some Mobil Delvac Synthetic Transmission Fluid 50 and put in 7 quarts through the top. It will last a hell of a lot longer than what's in there now.
7095-685I at 255hp, 8070-225HP,8050-210Hp,8030 with 155HP,220 with 670T engine with A-pump, 7580, 185 with 140HP, 2-6080's,6070, S4 D17,wd45,CA,st34 agco, S1 D17 with 3500MK2
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Peterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan 2019 at 5:37am
7095-685I at 255hp, 8070-225HP,8050-210Hp,8030 with 155HP,220 with 670T engine with A-pump, 7580, 185 with 140HP, 2-6080's,6070, S4 D17,wd45,CA,st34 agco, S1 D17 with 3500MK2
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allisbred Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan 2019 at 7:32am
Ok— this is very informative from all responses! The noise I hear sounds like a possible hydraulic throw out bearing when pressing in the clutch and does not seem to be getting worse (maybe ok then?). Chatter in reverse is annoying and think it should be better. I picked this truck up awhile back and love useing it until reverse. Think someone may have been in there (only becuase the clips on the shifter boot were broke). So— question is— did they set the injection pump to add rpm under a full load at idle? Can this be changed?
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Rick View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan 2019 at 9:35am
Tyler...I throw the dual mass flywheels away, because there are too many parts in them that wear and then they come apart! They're a short lived flywheel. I use a standard flywheel for the single plate units and can also make a two plate setup with a solid flywheel for the bad boys hauling heavier loads than they should be...but I guess the skies the limit! LOL! There are many different units that can be used, along with different price ranges and materials, depending on what folks want/need. Anyone interested, please email me at: rickinmo@socket.net and I will get back to you on Monday morning and we can go from there.    Rick
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Peterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan 2019 at 5:59pm
Originally posted by Rick Rick wrote:

Tyler...I throw the dual mass flywheels away, because there are too many parts in them that wear and then they come apart! They're a short lived flywheel. I use a standard flywheel for the single plate units and can also make a two plate setup with a solid flywheel for the bad boys hauling heavier loads than they should be...but I guess the skies the limit! LOL! There are many different units that can be used, along with different price ranges and materials, depending on what folks want/need. Anyone interested, please email me at: rickinmo@socket.net and I will get back to you on Monday morning and we can go from there.    Rick


Hey Rick! Yeah I had a hell of a time figuring our how to take the dual mass off this 06! Lol what a big piece of crap! I had no idea you could make a dual disc! Im goin to message you on Facebook about that! Lol
7095-685I at 255hp, 8070-225HP,8050-210Hp,8030 with 155HP,220 with 670T engine with A-pump, 7580, 185 with 140HP, 2-6080's,6070, S4 D17,wd45,CA,st34 agco, S1 D17 with 3500MK2
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DREAM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jan 2019 at 7:21pm

 

Son had a 2011 with the dual mass flywheel. Started coming apart, and cut a small groove in the inside of the bellhousing before we got it taken out and thrown away. Put in a solid flywheel and Southbend clutch. I never drove it, but he said he didn't care for the way it drove after that. Had too much "lurch" when letting off the accelerator. Might have had something to do with the straight pipe, DPF delete, throttle valve delete, and EGR deletes we did the same day. Or the Smarty programmer that was installed.....

Had all the power you could ask for though. He said it really woke up.
I didn't do it! It was a short, fat, tall, skinny guy that looked like me!
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