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New (to me) Truck..NEW added Pictures |
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Ted J
Orange Level Joined: 05 Jul 2010 Location: La Crosse, WI Points: 18786 |
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Posted: 22 Mar 2018 at 12:42pm |
Well guys, I've been looking for a long time to find one like I just bought. I had given up and the wife found a Ford XL on some kind of Facebook Market Place...
Anywho,,,,,,,,,,,,,,I went to look at the Ford and here sits this truck over by their shop door. I go to look and it's still got the sticker in the window, so I tell the salesman; "I want that truck"! Well he says; "It's not for sale". I tell him about the sticker in the window and so let's go talk to the sales manager. So after talking to him, he has to make a call to the district manager. The district manager says that since the sticker is in the window,,,,,,,,,you gotta sell it to him. So we get the paper work all done and I drive off except for the new plates. Got a call 2 days later and have to go pick up the new plates. The sales manager tells me that he had some real explaining to do to the General Manager.... Seems I got a heck of a deal on it!! But then I knew that already.... Any how, please except my apology for the long winded thread,,,,,,,,,,but now it's time to find out what YOU guys think. What to look for and fix right now.... It's a Chevy Silverado, a 2004 that is spotless. I know Chevies, so I KNOW how badly they rust out. This one is like NEW!! NO RUST anywhere except certain spots on the frame!! It's got the V-6 4.3 in it with an auto tranny, has 153,000 on it and runs like a top. It's a plain Jane with no power windows or seats of anything. RUBBER floor mat, no DIC or CD player or anything, a PLAIN JANE, farm truck. 8' box. SO, what do I look for and what do I need to fix right now. There are NO records for maintenance so I'm at a loss... I'm thinking about doing a flush with the radiator and new anti-freeze. Do I have to use Dex-Cool? What do you mechanics think of this truck? Thanks Guys! Edited by Ted J - 25 Mar 2018 at 7:56am |
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
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JayIN
Orange Level Joined: 18 Dec 2009 Location: SE/IN Points: 1982 |
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Congratulations! I have an old 97 Cheyenne with 216,000 on it and its the best truck I ever had. Have fun!
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sometimes I walk out to my shop and look around and think "Who's the idiot that owns this place?"
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Steve M Ind
Bronze Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Springport IN Points: 62 |
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When you flush the coolant I would go with the green antifreeze. Make sure when you flush it to flush the engine and heater core also as mixing Dex and Green is not recommended. Might check and see if the transmission fluid is getting dark, if it is I would flush that as well.
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mdm1
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Onalaska, WI Points: 2631 |
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Just curious Ted. Where did you buy it?
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Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!
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JC-WI
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: wisconsin Points: 33780 |
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I want to know is why weren't they wanting to sell it to you...?
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that." |
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mdm1
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Onalaska, WI Points: 2631 |
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Hey Ted where is the pic of it. (just in case I see you backed up to my trailer)
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Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!
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Stan IL&TN
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Elvis Land Points: 6730 |
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If the serpentine belt looks old then I would change that along with the tensioner and idler if it has one. Fluids would be first on the list. Brake inspection and rear end fluid check also.
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
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Thad in AR.
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Arkansas Points: 9422 |
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My old GMC had the 4.3 I sold it with 330000 miles on it. The guy that bought it put the motor in a nicer truck and I still see it from time to time. I’m a Ford guy but those trucks do last a long time. My 2000 is pushing 300000 but it’s having a lot of issues these days. The motor is still good but electrical issues showing up.
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Hubert (Ga)engine7
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Jackson Cnty,GA Points: 6241 |
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Glad you got a good deal and Shameless won't have to "git the rope." Bet they were trying to hold it for one of their buddies. Change all the fluids, flush good and go with green coolant, inspect the brakes, belt etc. and change the fuel filter.
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Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God.
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LeonR2013
Orange Level Joined: 01 Jan 2013 Location: Fulton, Mo Points: 3500 |
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Yes don't use the 50/50 mix. It's just a rip off. Do get the special water for it though. The water you get up front at Walter's place is not good enough.
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steve(ill)
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 80257 |
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why would you put green antifreeze in it ? It came with DEXCOOL... if you don't get it 100% removed, it CAN react with different fluid. The green is the old stuff... New long life is yellow.. since you have DEXCOOL I would stick with that.. check that it is ORANGE. Almost all NEW vehicles come with DEXCOOL or FORD equivalent.
Things that MOST trucks need at 175 K miles --- starter motor ---alternator ---fuel pump things that should have already been done, but check -- wheel bearings --transmission oil --rear axle gear lube --fan belt --upper and lower radiator hoses
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Dave H
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Central IL Points: 3492 |
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Where is Walter's place?
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desertjoe
Orange Level Access Joined: 23 Sep 2013 Location: New mexico Points: 13522 |
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Well Congrats on your new trk, Ted,,,,IF you are really wantin to put new antifreeze in trk,,,that's good but do yourself and the trk a favor and put new Dexcool back in it. The two will not mix and you will have to make sure you flush the block, the heater coil and all its hoses. When I was Assist Service Mgr at the local GM dealer, I seen the mess that mixing the Dexcool with the older green or yellow stuff,,it just clabbers up something ugly. UMMmm,,,when you gonna let us see the new trk,,,??? |
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JohnCO
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Niwot Colo Points: 8992 |
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I remember reading a story in some car magazine probably 30+ years ago about an employee at the Ford pickup assembly plant. He was one of those guys everybody knows and likes, anyway he buys the basic half ton 6 cylinder, 3 speed, no nothing pickup and shows the sales receipt to the guy that lines out the builds for the day. The basic parts start coming down the line, not half ton but 3/4 ton components, engine, not the 6 but a High Pro 390 off the Mustang engine line. Paint shop, hey that red doesn't look right, run it through again, and sand it out first. Interior, I wonder if those Mustang bucket seats will fit with a bit of work, "Joe, put in that stereo we put in Town Cars". Found some old chrome wheels of an experimental unit. There ya go, we parked it in the lot, have to get it delivered to the front gate so you can pick it up.
Seems an executive is driving through the finished lot ans spy's that shiny red truck, tags it for himself. The other guy gets his basic half ton. Don't know if it's a true story or not but could be... |
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"If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer"
Allis Express participant |
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shameless dude
Orange Level Joined: 10 Apr 2017 Location: east NE Points: 13607 |
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congrats on the new to you truck! it should be a good one for you, and i'm also glad you weren't swayed by some of these ferd guys here! JOe was right....he tolt me you wasn't as dumb as you looks! LMAO. I always flush the engine block on anything I buy, and put back in the anti-freeze that it calls for or came to you with. and of course I wants a pic too!
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Ted J
Orange Level Joined: 05 Jul 2010 Location: La Crosse, WI Points: 18786 |
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Mike, I bought it at Morries in La Crosse, on Monitor St. and you won't see me when I come to ,,,,,,,,er,,,,,,,um,,,,,,'borrow' that new trailer...
JC(WI) The GM wanted it for a shop truck. He was madder than a wet hen two days later when he found out. They had just stuck a bunch of new parts and changed fluids etc. The sales manager here almost lost his job over it. If you want the whole story, I'll post it. It's kinda long... ALL the fluids are new except the anti-freeze and I'm gonna change that. My son was here yesterdsay and he said the same thing, change that serpentine belt. So that's next on the list, along with the tensioner pulley. Brakes are new, but I need to work on the (now this is funny,,,,,,,,,,parking brake) or what I have ALWAYS known them as,,,,,,the EMERGENCY brake. If you're scooting down the highway and you go to turn into your road, and your brake pedal goes to the floor, what do you do?? Pull or push the EMERGENCY brake. That's the original reason for it, not for parking!! And if IT fails, THEN you hit a tree.... I didn't check the rear end, so that's now going on the list too... Thanks Stan!! steve(ill) the Dex-Cool in it is kind of a more reddish color, looking through the fill bottle on the side. That's why I think I'll change it, it looks kind of sick.... Things that MOST trucks need at 175 K miles ---fuel pump I'll keep this in mind,,,,,,,,,but where is the fuel pump? I haven't gotten a book on it yet. Everything else has been changed or checked. I can buy either the Hayne's or the Chilton book on it. I have old Chiltons from back when I was a mec 50-60s, and they are good manuals, but what do you guys suggest? I'll try and get a pic or 2 on here for ya........... |
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
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Dakota Dave
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: ND Points: 3936 |
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Fuel pump is inside the fuel tank. wait till it quits before you change it the replacements never last as long as the original. I've usually got about 200 K out of the original and never over 100 K from a replacement. I would change the tranny fluid and filter. I have three of them with well over 200K on the original drive train. only things Ive replaced are starters, alternators, water pumps, brakes and fuel pumps.
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Ted J
Orange Level Joined: 05 Jul 2010 Location: La Crosse, WI Points: 18786 |
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Thanks Dave! The dealer didn't know, and there's no paper work on it but the tranny fluid looks like it's brand new. I'll have to crawl under it an check the filter.
My son told me that a buddy of his had one and he complained about the fuel lines splitting or leaking above the tranny. He told my son you have to remove the tranny to fix it. Any truth to this? |
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
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Ted J
Orange Level Joined: 05 Jul 2010 Location: La Crosse, WI Points: 18786 |
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As Promised.....(Shameless could learn this,,,,,,,,poke,poke,poke)
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
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shameless dude
Orange Level Joined: 10 Apr 2017 Location: east NE Points: 13607 |
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wow....that is a nice truck! thanks for the pics! enjoy your new ride!
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HD6GTOM
Orange Level Joined: 30 Nov 2009 Location: MADISON CO IA Points: 6627 |
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You been sneaking around taking a picture of my truck??? Been taking lessons from ol shameless- poke - poke? Got one looks just like that. 1st one I've had with a box cover on it. I did not think I would like it, was gonna take it off, but I'm glad I left it on. This is the second 1 I have had. 1st one was a 2000, it liked to east distributator caps once a year. Don't buy the cheap ones from O'Reillys, they only last about 3 months, NAPA ones at least a year+. At 200000 I had to put a fuel pump in it. It had 260000 on it when I gave it to #2 son. The 05 I have now, same 4.3 motor pulls better than the 2000 and gets 20 to 24 mpg on the highway. If I fill up from the F/S self fill gas station or the Phillips 66 station I usually usually get 23-24 mpg. If I fill up at the convience store I get a couple MPG less. Mine is a 2x4. I put studded snow tires on the back of it last fall. Boy they sure made a difference this past winter. I had regular snow tires on the back of the 2000, same brand, it was pretty helpless in the snow. I hope yours is as good as the 2 I have had.
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Thad in AR.
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Arkansas Points: 9422 |
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Ted I've never had /heard of problems with the fuel lines. Do keep an eye on the trans cooler lines where they hook up to the radiator. they're known to be a pos trouble causer. I took mine to a transmisson shop and for $50.00 they fixed them for good and that was several years back. Keep an eye on the coolant. I've always had to add some to mine. It's getting bad enough I'm gonna take it in and have a leak test done. If the fuel gauge quits it's most likely the fuel pump. I put a Delphi from NAPA last time and it's lasted a very long time. I had to thange the wiring a bit. I can't remember the reason. My V6 had a quick connect typ of thing where one of the heater core hoses goes in to the intake manifold. It broke and I just replaced it with a pipe/ hose clamp fitting and all was well.
That's a good lookin truck. Same color as mine. I pulled my racecar lots of tires/wheels and the truck loaded with parts and tools all over the Ozark mountains with that V6. I think they're great.
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darrel in ND
Orange Level Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Hebron, ND Points: 8623 |
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My experience with fuel pumps has been the same. I don't know why, but even replacements from GM don't last as long as the original ones have. Odd, because I'd think it would be the same Pump. Some say that they'll last longer if you never let your gas tank get below a quarter full, because the gas keeps the pump cool. Had a fuel pump acting up on a 95 burb I had one time, before I had a good understanding of what was going on with "in the tank" fuel pumps. The thing was having intermittant spells of not running very good, and dying. Pretty soon, the fuel guage quit, too. Took it into the shop. What was going on, was the fuel pump was all but toast, and had gotten so hot that it melted wires going to the fuel sending unit for the guage. Damn, I don't like something getting that hot inside my fuel tank. And Murphy's law applies here, too; Seeing how the fuel tank has to come off to replace the fuel pump, the fuel pump will always take its lest breath when the fuel tank is plum full. And there ain't a good way to get the fuel out of the tank. Darrel |
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desertjoe
Orange Level Access Joined: 23 Sep 2013 Location: New mexico Points: 13522 |
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Hey Ted,,,that right there is one nice lookin trk and looks to be well taken care of for sure,,!! It probably outlast you,,er,,thet didn't sound so good, did it,,?? And,,,,and,,,just so you know,,,"I did NOT have sex with thet wom,,,,UMMMmmm,,I meant,," I DID NOT say thet bout you,,,I was just tryin to be cute with ole Shameless,,,,,Dang,,you can't hardly tell thet guy anything 'thought him wantin to repeat it to everybody,,,,,,, Edited by desertjoe - 25 Mar 2018 at 3:26pm |
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jiminnd
Orange Level Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: Rutland ND Points: 2228 |
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Those 4.3 were noted for anti freeze leaks around intake, mine was fixed twice and was leaking again when I gave up on it.
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1945 C, 1949 WF and WD, 1981 185, 1982 8030, unknown D14(nonrunner)
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fixer1958
Orange Level Joined: 13 Feb 2010 Location: kansas Points: 2434 |
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You don't have to take the tank out unless it's a Burb or similar version.
Just lift the bed on the left side about 1 1/2 '. Most have a new harness you have to wire in because the OE ones were kind of flacky. If you can read you can do it, that and a couple of teenagers to lift the bed while you shove 4x4's in there to hold it up. Teenagers are best because they feel no pain and have the opportunity to show off there manly manhood to the old man or whomever is watching then strut around like a rooster. |
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jaybmiller
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 22270 |
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two things I know
1) gas filler caps up here rust/rot real fast ! I'd talke yours off, blow out any krap in the seams, then lay on a light coat of 'seam sealer' NOT sillycon ! where the inner and outer pieces join. Aftermarket ones up here are $65 ! 2) use some heat and GENTLY remove the box mounting bolts as you do NOT want to try 'brubgunning' them out..you'll spin the nuts and make an ugly day long job out of it. Heat and patience is the key and you'll get all 8 of them out.Coat with neversieze and reinstall 3) get it 'oil sprayed' ! Take to car wash, spend $5-10$ and get every nook and cranny 'desalted'.... wait couple days(so it's totally dry) then get it oil sprayed,pay the $100-200$ to get it done, then after that buy couple cans of 'rustcheck' to finish the job. |
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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chaskaduo
Orange Level Joined: 26 Nov 2016 Location: Twin Cities Points: 5200 |
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Wow no snow!
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1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp
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