New To Me 1950 WD With Loader

I was given a WD that has been sitting outside for the past 7yrs. I drained the water out of the gas tank, carb and oil pan. I then added 4gals of fresh gas with sea foam and fresh oil with mystery oil & cleaned the points. It took about an hour to do it. As soon as I hit the starter it popped right off. I had to run it with the choke on for 15 mins. After that it ran smoothly with no choke. What a day!!

Noone gives me cool things like that...

Great to see you got it running again before it sat so long it wouldn't run. Nice tractor there.

Congratulations on your good luck (and obvious knowledge of how to get an old tractor running again)!  Looks like you've got a nice new outfit to have a little fun with.

Looks like you had a busy day. Sad to see the problems that neglect and poor work caused but it is good to see someone dig right in and make it right. Keep up the good work and keep us updated it is always nice to see these projects progress.   It gives me currage to attack my own equipment.

O-well one nice part about the tractor is the cost is not high. I'd find a used WD45 three disk hand clutch and rebuild it. Check the end play in the hand clutch input shaft. Might sit down when you get the price on a new brass collar.

After looking at all the rust inside you night drain the oil and remove the shift cover, rear end back cover and take a look around in there too before spending money on the hand clutch.

Rear end and trans are good. The hydraulic fluid was low. Water got in the hand clutch area from the cover being pulled off and put back on with no gasket and the bolts where not tighten down.
I do have a good use collar I got off of ebay years ago for $9.99. I think AGCO's price is well over $150.00. As long as the collar rides in oil have very rarely wear out.
Wrenching on a tractor all day is still a good enjoyable day.

DennisA (IL) wrote: Rear end and trans are good. The hydraulic fluid was low. Water got in the hand clutch area from the cover being pulled off and put back on with no gasket and the bolts where not tighten down. I do have a good use collar I got off of ebay years ago for $9.99. I think AGCO's price is well over $150.00. As long as the collar rides in oil have very rarely wear out. Wrenching on a tractor all day is still a good enjoyable day.

That's good news on the back haft and more good news that you have a backup collar just weighting to get back inside a WD. I hope you can find all the replacement parts laying beside the E-bay collar. lol
Yes you are right a even bad day at home working on the toys is far better that the best day at work will ever be!!!!!

OK Dennis I think it's time for you to be a movie star and make a video on rebuilding and setting the hand clutch up on a WD/WD45; so how-bout it, I know you can do it!

That's no good the parts tractor looks worse then the tractor you are fixing.     now you need to find another parts tractor.... I am starting to see how we end up with a collection of these things in pieces...

Dennis you should put a new seal on the shaft going thru the housing. Hopefully the piece that holds the brass collar will separate from it. You will have to put the tractor back together again, and take the right frame rail off. The seal I used was 9878 by SKF. That will keep you busy. lol Tim

I split the parts 45 today and took a few pictures of how I set it up.

I used four 3/4-10 threaded rod 18" long with nuts on one end.

I then take out the rail mounting bolts and replace it with the rod. Replace one at a time. Do not remove all the bolts then put in the rods.

Also place a jack under the tube casting to support the weight. The rods are to support the trans and read end from tipping.

Once all the connections that bridge between the back and front of the tractor and all bolts have been remove you can roll the rear end back.

That is the snap-coupler release lever.

DennisA (IL) wrote: I split the parts 45 today and took a few pictures of how I set it up. I used four 3/4-10 threaded rod 18" long with nuts on one end. I then take out the rail mounting bolts and replace it with the rod. Replace one at a time. Do not remove all the bolts then put in the rods. Also place a jack under the tube casting to support the weight. The rods are to support the trans and read end from tipping. Once all the connections that bridge between the back and front of the tractor and all bolts have been remove you can roll the rear end back.

You have done a fine job showing what you did to spit the tractor. 

Some of you may know by now that when I'm working on a project what ever I come across that show any sign of wear I feel the need to make it right.
Well I found the brake & clutch shaft was worn as well as the clutch and brake pedal pivot points. So I sent them off to the machine shop for some attention.
A new shaft was make.


Then the pedals were bored and bushed.


Now just need to make sure they are greased as needed.

Dennis,
I too say thanks for showing how you split the tractor....every educational!
Mike in Iowa