New holland 275 wire tie baler - need some help

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   I just bought a New Holland 275 wire tie baler.  Has been barn kept and was used a few years ago.  Previous owner said it worked good, but would occasionally shear the "little" bolt on the flywheel (Meant to shear I believe).  He thought that it needed the knives replaced or sharpened.  How do I get to the knives?  I am assuming one on plunger and one stationary.  I cant see anywhere to get to them to remove them for replacement/sharpening.  Somebody mentioned removing the plunger out the back and then sharpening them.  If I do that how do I restring the wire correctly (I am assuming it will have to be taken out). 
Thanks for any help
Adam

Edited by Sandknob - 19 May 2016 at 10:33am

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Sandknob Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Oblong, IL Points: 2456	Post Options Post Reply Quote Sandknob Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: New holland 275 wire tie baler - need some help Posted: 19 May 2016 at 10:32am
	I just bought a New Holland 275 wire tie baler. Has been barn kept and was used a few years ago. Previous owner said it worked good, but would occasionally shear the "little" bolt on the flywheel (Meant to shear I believe). He thought that it needed the knives replaced or sharpened. How do I get to the knives? I am assuming one on plunger and one stationary. I cant see anywhere to get to them to remove them for replacement/sharpening. Somebody mentioned removing the plunger out the back and then sharpening them. If I do that how do I restring the wire correctly (I am assuming it will have to be taken out). Thanks for any help Adam Edited by Sandknob - 19 May 2016 at 10:33am

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CTuckerNWIL Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22823	Post Options Post Reply Quote CTuckerNWIL Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 19 May 2016 at 10:53am
	One thing you might check first is for wear in the shear pin hole. Our old 14T JD broke so many pins over the years, that the hole was wore out and you couldn't hardly start it up without shearing a pin. It had interchangeable inserts in the flywheel and the driver so the hole could be fixed by swapping out the inserts. With the shear pin only finger tight, see if you can rock the flywheel back and forth a bit without moving the driver. If the hole IS bad, the bolt will try to angle with the direction of travel of the flywheel.
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DougS Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 2490	Post Options Post Reply Quote DougS Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 19 May 2016 at 11:14am
	I would think that knife problems would show up as ragged and incomplete cuts on the sides of the bales. I would also check the timing. It could be off one chain link. The chain may be old and stretched, too. That could cause timing problems.

thendrix Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 04 Feb 2013 Location: Fairmount GA Points: 4937	Post Options Post Reply Quote thendrix Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 19 May 2016 at 11:26am
	I think DougS is right. Breaking that shear pin would be from an excessive load somewhere in the drive train (gearbox, pickup, hay fork, plunger). A large clump of hay trying to go through at once and over loading would be a possibility especially if it's not a regular occurrence. Dull knives would leave a ragged cut. I guess if the knives were far enough out of adjustment that they didn't cut but drug hay in beside the plunger then you could break a shear bolt. But that would also show in ragged bales. If you don't have an owners manual get one. You can buy and download one from agrimanuals.com (I think that's what it's called) Edited by thendrix - 19 May 2016 at 11:26am
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tadams(OH) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Location: Jeromesville, O Points: 10330	Post Options Post Reply Quote tadams(OH) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 19 May 2016 at 2:58pm
	Check the bushing in the flywheel see if they is any play without the shear bolt, this will put extra stress on the shear bolt also check the clearance between the stationary knife and the one on the plunger. Check the plunger for slop might need the plunger bearing adjusted. You had better get a book cause sometime your going to have to rewire it. Tom

Sandknob Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Oblong, IL Points: 2456	Post Options Post Reply Quote Sandknob Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 19 May 2016 at 5:36pm
	I ordered a book for it. I did look and yes the bushing is wallowed out. $70 for the bushing!!!!!!! Wow! Straw looks like it is cut good. So I am assuming the bushing is a big part of the problem. Thanks for the input guys. Adam

Ray54 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Paso Robles, Ca Points: 4609	Post Options Post Reply Quote Ray54 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 19 May 2016 at 9:22pm
	Shimming of knives and plunger can be as big a problem as how sharp they are. They need to be close but not to close. Is a pain but have sharpened knives in the baler with angle head grinder. A lot of times the plunger is pulled to work on plunger knife. Edited by Ray54 - 19 May 2016 at 9:25pm

WF owner Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 4758	Post Options Post Reply Quote WF owner Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 May 2016 at 7:49am
	Since wire tie balers (usually) make much tighter, heavier bales, there is a lot more stress on them than twine balers. We had a neighbor that had a wire baler that alfalfa bales averaged about 80 lbs. with some weighing over 100 lbs. His (oat) straw bales averaged about 60 lbs. Since he sold most of his hay & straw, he preferred the heavy bales for shipping. You don't tell us when the baler is shearing pins. Is it when you are running it near capacity or dies it just shear pins when you are in average hay? If it's not a capacity problem, I agree (with tadams) that the first place I would look is the flywheel bushing. I had an AC 444 that routinely sheared pins for no reason until we rebushed the flywheel. I also agree that a dull plunger knife, should result in a ragged edge on the pickup side of the bale.

Sandknob Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Oblong, IL Points: 2456	Post Options Post Reply Quote Sandknob Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 May 2016 at 11:39am
	Wf, I have never used it, but all the previous owner told me was he only used it on straw. I did look at the bushing and it is wallowed out. I'm going to replace it and try it. Thanks Adam

bobkyllo Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: minnesota Points: 1550	Post Options Post Reply Quote bobkyllo Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 May 2016 at 9:01pm
	There has to be a brake on the baler some place to hold the needles from moving and a brake to hold the knotters in place. The brakes get worn and the needles will creep ahead just a bit to break the bolt also. I've got that problem on mine and I need to fix it soon.