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Wot 
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 Topic: Lift D17 Series 3
Posted: 18 Jan 2021 at 12:20am |
Hello guys,
Purchased a D17 series 3 tractor, the hitch won't work. If I turn the lever all the way up I think a hear the pump a bit (if lever is all the way up) but the lift arms won't go up. I think the lever has much clearance, about three quarters of the lever. Is that normal?
What can I check?
It also has a remote valve, how do I operate that? Can't see another lever (except traction booster lever)
Thanks
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WF owner
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Posted: 18 Jan 2021 at 5:44am |
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I hate to state the obvious, but it won't lift with the clutch depressed.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 18 Jan 2021 at 6:04am |
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If it has an extra remote valve, you must lock the Lift/Lower lever in the top window and then operate the remote valve. All must be done with the foot clutch engaged (foot off).
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Wot
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Posted: 18 Jan 2021 at 6:23am |
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Thanks, does it matter if the 'wheel' from the transport valve is in or out maybe?
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DrAllis
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Posted: 18 Jan 2021 at 6:27am |
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Nope.
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Wot
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Posted: 18 Jan 2021 at 6:31am |
Ok, so lift arms should go up and down with transport valve 'wheel' in AND out? Don't get why arms won't go up then.... I hear the pump a bit with lever all the way up. How do I adjust the lift lower lever correctly? Any thoughts?
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DrAllis
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Posted: 18 Jan 2021 at 6:36am |
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Arms will go up and down regardless of where the Transport valve knob is set. Do as I said !!! Lock the Lift/Lower lever in the upper window so the lever stays UP and operate your added on remote valve.
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Wot
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Posted: 18 Jan 2021 at 6:49am |
Yep, but I do not need the valve. I need the lift to be going, and it won't 
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DrAllis
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Posted: 18 Jan 2021 at 7:17am |
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This is like arguing with my Wife. You have just purchased a tractor that someone else has plumbed in an add-on remote valve. You can't make the lift arms work. I've told you how to make them work. But of course that is assuming I know how this add-on valve is hooked up. You can post pictures of how the remote valve is plumbed, that would help. Or you could just try to operate it as I have suggested and maybe it will then work. Suit yourself.
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MACK
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Posted: 18 Jan 2021 at 7:24am |
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Is it full of oil ? MACK
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Wot
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Posted: 18 Jan 2021 at 7:47am |
Mack, thanks for your reply... that simple thing I didn't checked... good one. Where is the stick located, left of the gearstick? (Instruction book is on it's way, everything is new  ) |
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Alvin M
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Posted: 18 Jan 2021 at 7:52am |
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IF it hooked up the I think it is Dr Allis is right lock the extra valve lever and it will work
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WF owner
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Posted: 18 Jan 2021 at 7:58am |
The hydraulic fill is on the right side of the tractor, under the fuel tank.
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Gary
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Posted: 18 Jan 2021 at 7:59am |
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Perhaps check the Hydraulic 'Lift Lever' Linkage.
You mention it has a lot of Free Travel.
That could be the problem.
G
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WF owner
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Posted: 18 Jan 2021 at 8:11am |
 WF owner wrote:
The hydraulic fill is on the right side of the tractor, under the fuel tank.
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and I should have said, on the side of the torque tube.
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Wot
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Posted: 18 Jan 2021 at 8:19am |
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DrAllis, think I was wrong in my text. It isn't a remote valve, it is the transport valve I see. Will make a picture.
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Wot
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Posted: 18 Jan 2021 at 8:36am |
Here is the picture, should the knee plugged in the block maybe to get the lift going?
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DanD
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Posted: 18 Jan 2021 at 9:23am |
WF owner wrote:
WF owner wrote:
The hydraulic fill is on the right side of the tractor, under the fuel tank.
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and I should have said, on the side of the torque tube. |
Not on a Series III. Hydraulic oil fill is on top of the torque tube right in front of the operator. The plug you have to remove with a wrench, The other cap is just for the transmission. The one on the right side under the gas tank is not used on newer D17s.
Edited by DanD - 18 Jan 2021 at 9:26am
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Gary
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Posted: 18 Jan 2021 at 9:47am |
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Wot
How about taking some more pictures going all around your tractor, including close-ups of Hydraulic items, also very importantly, the Tractor Serial Number.
That would help us confirm what Series it is.
G
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DrAllis
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Posted: 18 Jan 2021 at 9:51am |
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Hydraulic oil fill is left of the gearshift right up against the instrument panel. May take a wrench if tight. Fill to the "prolonged Oil level when standing" or the higher of the two marks. Series 3's sometimes air lock a bit if very low on hyd oil and you may drive the tractor into a place where the front wheels are down while engine is running to help distribute the oil where it needs to be. If the trans is overfull, you have an internal leak transferring hyd oil into the tranny.
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PaulB
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Posted: 18 Jan 2021 at 9:56am |
Once you get an operators manual, you should also get a parts book and a service manual. If for no other reason to correctly identify things that you wish to as a question about. If you ask for "Lays" if you want plowshears you'll get potato chips. When you ask the proper question, you will get the answer you're searching for.
Edited by PaulB - 18 Jan 2021 at 9:58am
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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DaveWisc.
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Posted: 18 Jan 2021 at 10:14am |
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Not knowing where you are I had a problem a few years back with water in the hydralic system and it froze so it didn’t work either. I don’t know if your in the cold weather just an idea. It could just be low on oil too.
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Wot
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Posted: 18 Jan 2021 at 10:16am |
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Hi Paul, you are right. but sometimes a person makes a mistake.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 18 Jan 2021 at 11:53am |
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I see no add-on remote valve anywhere in the picture. Someone has added a Pioneer coupler for the return side, which would allow a 2-way/2-hose cylinder to be used with only pressure applied thru one hose/one-way.
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orangereborn
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Posted: 18 Jan 2021 at 12:03pm |
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x2...That is the question I was going to ask...Is there both a "remote valve" and a "transport valve" or do both those terms= "transport valve?" Dale
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Wot
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Posted: 18 Jan 2021 at 12:53pm |
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DrAllis, that is also my thought. I was wrong with saying it has a remote valve. I’m sorry.
To make lift working again;
Could it be that I need to remove the pioneer coupler and bolt it on to the transport valve? (The tube has a connection elbow identical as the other tube) thanks for helping me!
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DrAllis
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Posted: 18 Jan 2021 at 1:14pm |
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There should be a Female Pioneer coupler on the Transport valve to be able to operate a hydraulic cylinder on a disc, etc. That's got NOTHING to do with your lift arms. The lift arms should raise in 3 seconds (with the engine throttled up) when the Lift/Lower lever is moved to the top of the quadrant. What is the hydraulic oil level ??
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DrAllis
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Posted: 18 Jan 2021 at 1:20pm |
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Now that I look at that full picture, I see the one steel tube isn't even connected to the Transport valve. I thought there was a "tee" there. I'd have to look at my books at home. I wonder if that sideways Pioneer coupler is the pressure line from the pump ?? and they have it bypassed for some strange reason. If so, the arms will never raise because they aren't receiving any oil from the hyd pump. I'll guess the lift arm cylinder hose or ram packing is blown, so they eliminated the lift arms from the circuit as a "fix".
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Wot
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Posted: 18 Jan 2021 at 1:55pm |
That is exactly my thought now! See the better picture below. De line with the pioneer coupling is the line coming from under the tank, with the traction booster on it (pressure line). So that one needs to be connected to the point were the plug in is now, then the lift should work. (if nothing is broken inside)
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DrAllis
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Posted: 18 Jan 2021 at 2:08pm |
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If that is the line that goes underneath the fuel tank, that is your pressure line. Be careful not to crush that brass fitting. Use two identical 3/4" wrenches at the same time.
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