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JC-WI 
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 Topic: LED lights look weird...
Posted: 10 May 2019 at 4:44am |
So I got to thinking that these LED lights look goofie and started experimenting how to put an old glass lens on them... So I cut the glass reflector back off of the lens of a sealed beam light, and that almost fits inside the LED rim.
But it is to thick yet to look decent. Thus on my next try, I will try cutting the lens off at the groove where it dimples in on the very edge of the light element, (if I am so lucky not to break it) and then sand off the edge about .1 inches and put some clear silicon around the edge for glue and push into housing... Hopefully it will look nice. Next question is, will they work good at night with the glass in front? We will find out some day  ah ... some night.   This lens above will work in another application where it is mounted back in the light bucket on the tractor and the Led snugged up from the back side against it.
Well, this being my first try to retain some resemblance of the original look with the LED lights, there might be a chance it won't look to bad with the lens on front and just having the led original back left as it is. They do not seem to get warm.
I do have a few of these LED lights where the plastic lens has been exposed to the elements for several years, and they do discolor, Maybe with the glass lens in front, the led lens won't discolor so fast...? Looked to see if there was a chance to remove the plastic lense from the led but appears that is all made in one unit and only about 1/2 inch thick total.
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
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victoryallis
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Posted: 10 May 2019 at 5:05am |
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Why cobble them up? LED is the greatest thing since sliced bread. If your that much of a purist better run stock lights.
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8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760
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DennisA (IL)
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Posted: 10 May 2019 at 6:16am |
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It would be nice to have LED lights with the look of the conventional lights.
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Thanks & God Bless
Dennis
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Lonn
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Posted: 10 May 2019 at 6:44am |
They make them that way already
I think Larsen Lights have them. If not it was somewhere else I've seen them but I've seen them.
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Lonn
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Posted: 10 May 2019 at 6:46am |
Click link and scroll down
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 10 May 2019 at 6:53am |
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There ya go. A-40-0025 is the magic number......
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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JC-WI
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Posted: 10 May 2019 at 7:35am |
sheitsky juss $29 bucks... wonder if it is genuine glass or plastic lens...
Got me to looking and found Halogen 50 watts for 8 bucks plus shipping... they do get hot, and attract bugs unlike the LED's, but could warm the finger tips up on them lights in dead of winter. Thanks fellas.
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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DMiller
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Posted: 10 May 2019 at 8:03am |
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What I do not like of LED lamps is in the cold they will not self defrost or defog, next to nothing for heat in them. Couple cities are fighting that issue these days as in winter the lights load with snow and not readily seen, a few major money accidents occurred where the savings got spent anyway.
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Lonn
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Posted: 10 May 2019 at 8:05am |
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Hmmm don't know. I do have two standard led light replacement bulbs for my 200 from Larsen sitting in a box in the shop but haven't really looked at them. I think they are the high-low beam 3-B-35-0008.
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Chad (MN)
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Posted: 10 May 2019 at 12:42pm |
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The Larsen LEDs are glass.
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220 3-190XT 2-D19d D19g 5-D17 UC 3-WC 2-WD 3-WD45 CA C H3 7-AllCrops 14-plows 3-Gleaners Lawnmowers SC-equipment
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AC720Man
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Posted: 11 May 2019 at 8:58pm |
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Thanks for this post, I was looking to update to LED and I feel the same way about how they look. I like the Larsen glass LED. I think I will order some. Factory lamps are not very bright. Does the LED use less amperage? If I use my flashers, which also turns on the outside lights in the fender, and use 2 auxiliary flasher lights back to an implement it will melt the light fuse holder eventually but not blow the 20 amp fuse. That would be my main reason to switch to LED.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Chad (MN)
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Posted: 12 May 2019 at 8:20am |
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LEDs should be consuming fewer amps than hallogen, etc.
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220 3-190XT 2-D19d D19g 5-D17 UC 3-WC 2-WD 3-WD45 CA C H3 7-AllCrops 14-plows 3-Gleaners Lawnmowers SC-equipment
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HudCo
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Posted: 12 May 2019 at 9:56am |
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i agree glass lens are king over the plastic all turns brown
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CrestonM
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Posted: 15 May 2019 at 10:40am |
JC, I've had the same idea as you upgrading to LED, but keeping the look of the traditional glass lens. I need better lights on my cotton stripper, because I'm outdriving my headlights at night, only going 10 mph. It really is that bad. Call me a bad operator if you want, but I get lost in the field at night because I can't see where I'm at, and I can only see about 30' in front of me. The Larsen flood light like you posted with the trapezoid glass lens looks very nice. I've recently learned that pattern on the glass is what causes the light to be spread out and work well in a flood light application. I want to add a couple spot lights to my machine, so I think the trapezoid glass lens would mess that up maybe, which I guess is why they don't offer a spot light with that style lens. If these lights are as good as everyone is saying, I may have to try them. I see they offer the flood and spot lights both at 1450 lumens. I don't know what my old halogen lights are, but the Larsen site says 400-600 lumens. I've been looking at Tiger Lights, which are 2200 lumens. They cost $20 more, and I don't know if the 750 Lumen increase is worth it? I wish I had a guide from the bulb manufacturers that made it easier to understand. Actual photos of the lights in the field at night would help a ton, or anything visual.
Here's what I've been looking at from Tiger Lights. It says they are 24 Watt, and the Larsen lights are 30 Watt. Does that just correspond to energy usage I guess? With the Larsen having the higher wattage, it seems they would be brighter instead of the other way around. But then again, I've been told wattage has nothing to do with Lumen rating.
Edited by CrestonM - 15 May 2019 at 10:56am
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JC-WI
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Posted: 15 May 2019 at 1:21pm |
I had bought a set of these Wagner 4509 from TS
years ago, and set them up on the tractor , they were only 100 watts
each and were marked halogen H3 on back of lens... those things were
bright... Listed in ebay as spot - aircraft landing lights. This is the kind
you just turn on when you need them. they do not have as long a life as others do. but they are long distance beams. I don't know if there are any LED lights that can can match them in distance, but suppose there is.
On my loader tractor, I am putting back in some Halogen 55watt Wagner H7610. The original 35 watt lights were not bright enough and I put these in many years back too and average life expectancy was 4000 hours. One burnt out two years ago and the other last year... and felt like I was in the dark. Just ordered 4 more of these lights again.
These throw better light than the ones below
This fellow has two for 15 bucks and 10 bucks shipping...
I do have a set of these that I will be mounting on the loader itself someday to get the light forward farther and stop having glare in the eyes from the fender lights. Back in the 80's I converted the WD45 over to 12 volts and put halogen sealed beams in behind the glass lenses and that brightend up everything, then I mounted some halogen driving lights up on the hood bolts they were called FireCracker and had capsule H3 bulbs in them and boy was it fun cultivating at night with that light set up. Having the ability to see what you were cultivating and seeing out across the field.
Good luck on your quest for night vision...
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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farmboy520
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Posted: 15 May 2019 at 6:33pm |
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I have a pair of those spot lights on the front of my 7010 and you and can see a good 1/4 mi easily. I put some rigid led spots on the front of my 7060 for planting and I think they go farther yet.
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On the farm: Agco Allis 9695, 7060, 7010, R66, Farmall H, and Farmall F20 (Great Grandpa's)
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CrestonM
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Posted: 15 May 2019 at 9:05pm |
Those halogen Wagner 4509 spot lights look pretty enticing, if they really do shine that far. Sounds like I'd be able to see into the future with those... They're cheap enough, but shows average life to only be 25 hours. Sounds like I better buy a few extras on hand, or else not run them as much.
I don't know what the current factory lights' wattage is, but is all this wattage something that is going to tax my alternator or cause wires to get hot, if I replace the 2 bottom cab lights with those?
Right now I've got 6 lights on my cab...(Same cab as Gleaner L)....it has 2 driving lights on the top that point straight ahead, right under those are 2 work lights that are angled downward (these 4 lights are wired to the same switch), and the previous owner added 2 more lights at the bottom of the cab, also pointing straight ahead. Those 2 the PO added are on their own switch...I'm not sure if it's fused or not. I'm thinking if I go that Wagner 4509 route, I may put those at the bottom of the cab pointing ahead, since they would be on their own switch.
I'm thinking I'll replace the top 4 lights with the LED's from Larsen discussed earlier. So, I guess as far as the watts go....100+100+30+30+30+30 = 320 watts drawn from just the 6 cab lights, plus whatever the 4 other factory lights on the sides of the machine draw. Does that sound like a problem?
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JC-WI
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Posted: 15 May 2019 at 11:10pm |
How big is your alternator?
12 volts x 32 amp alternator = 384 watts 320 watts / 12 volts = 26.67 amps
If you run all the lights 320 watts + the other four which probably are 35 watt each would be another 140 watts 460 watt total. 460 watts / 12 = 38.4 amps... are there any other electricals in the cab to run fans, pumps or actuators???
If your running 30 amps up to 16 ft, you should have 10 gauge automotive wire, If your running heavier load like 35-50 amps 10-20 feet, run 8 gauge up to where the loads are spread out on other circuits and also down to the hot post on the starter where generally it is attached. Can also put in light load switchs with relays for the lights too....
Think I would throw on a 60+amp alternator and then run 6 gauge and put in a circuit breaker and a 60 amp gauge. Then you have ample capacity to add more load on if needed. jmho
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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CrestonM
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Posted: 15 May 2019 at 11:22pm |
I don't know off hand what gauge the wiring is. I'd have to look. I also don't remember what amp the alternator is, I'll have to check. In addition to the lights on the exterior, the only other electricals I can think of are radio, monitor warning lights (4 small bulbs), and cab fan. I've got a lot of learning to do about electricity still...load switches, relays, circuit breakers, etc. Edit: I just watched a video about relays and how to wire them up, and those things are very neat! Now I think I understand how multiple lights can be safely wired together with 1 smaller switch, and how I would need to go about wiring up those Wagner lights, if I go that route. Also figured out how to determine how many watts a relay can handle, so that's another step out of the way.
Edited by CrestonM - 15 May 2019 at 11:48pm
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coggonobrien
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Posted: 16 May 2019 at 9:19am |
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your light pattern is going to be crap putting another lens in front of the led
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CrestonM
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Posted: 16 May 2019 at 9:30am |
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Larsen did it.
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coggonobrien
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Posted: 16 May 2019 at 11:25am |
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Larsen is not running 2 lenses
Larsen is not using a lense designed for the light of a single pint incandescent to distribute the light of multiple led's.
Don't go into engineering, it won't be successful.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 16 May 2019 at 7:30pm |
A LUMEN is a specific amount of light. No matter what bulb your candle you use, you can compare LUMENS... You cannot compare WATTS since a WATT is volts x amps ..... LEDs use about 1/6 as many amps as an incandescent bulb for the same LUMENS... so LEDS are more efficient, no heat output, and lower amps ........... so compare LUMENS. How Many Lumens Do You Need?
More Lumens = More Light |
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| If you used to buy this in incandescent | Look for this much light in lumens | LED
(most efficient) | CFL
(more efficient) | Halogen
(more efficient incandescent) | | 100 W | 1600 | up to 22 W | up to 26 W | up to 72 W | | 75 W | 1100 | up to 20 W | up to 23 W | up to 53 W | | 60 W | 800 | up to 12 W | up to 15 W | up to 43 W | | 40 W | 450 | up to 9 W | up to 11 W | up to 29 W |
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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CrestonM
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Posted: 27 Oct 2019 at 8:56pm |
This topic is a few months old, but I drifted from my original idea of using the 100W halogens. I'm sure I took a hit, as far as being able to see off into the future, but I think I got something good, nonetheless. I recently bought a pair of high output PAR-36 LEDs from Larsen. They will be replacing the 2 top driving lights on the cab of my cotton stripper. I e-mailed Kenny Larsen, and he said the Hi/Lo bulbs, when wired only to the high side, would give the best combo of width and distance. They have 3 trapezoid beams and 3 spot beams. I haven't installed them yet, as college has kept me from the farm, but I took some jumper wires and hooked 1 light to the battery of my pickup and shone it across the yard, and WOW! I can't wait to see how they do in the field. I will definitely post pics before/after the swap, but I can already tell they will be great, even if I don't like the looks of LED bulbs. The lenses on them are plastic, which I'm not crazy about, but I bet they will be okay. At $30/piece it seems like a decent investment, especially if they last as many hours as they say they do. I will post pics as soon as I'm able to get them installed and pics taken in the field (It will be a while), but for now, here's a link to the bulbs I got.
Edited by CrestonM - 27 Oct 2019 at 8:58pm
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Dakota Dave
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Posted: 27 Oct 2019 at 10:16pm |
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RI have a 4509 landing light on my airplane. Get good lighting of runway from 400' and 1/4 mile out on final.It's recommend to turn it off for taxi. It overheats without air flow over it. They get very hot if left on.
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marnetromburg
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Posted: 18 Feb 2022 at 6:58am |
Please post the results of your bulb replacement. I just bought the smart wifi LED multicolored bulbs from amazon. I'm interested in adding more light to the backseats. If someone got any suggestions about the good positions for the bulbs in that area? I'm thinking of placing the additional LED bulbs in the doors and at the back panel. Also, if I will pull up the four bulbs, it will not be very bright full in the car. What do you think? Thank you for your answers in advance! Have a good day, WAF !
Edited by marnetromburg - 21 Feb 2022 at 2:38am
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Jim.ME
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Posted: 18 Feb 2022 at 7:26am |
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Reported --
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Alvin M
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Posted: 18 Feb 2022 at 8:02am |
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AC 6080 I used tiger # TL3025 hi and low beam has 3 wires hooked up to tractor wires
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