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LED lights look weird...

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JC(WI) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JC(WI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: LED lights look weird...
    Posted: 10 May 2019 at 4:44am
So I got to thinking that these LED lights look goofie and started experimenting how to put an old glass lens on them... So I cut the glass reflector back off of the lens of a sealed beam light, and that almost fits inside the LED rim.
  But it is to thick yet to look decent. Thus on my next try, I will try cutting the lens off at the groove where it dimples in on the very edge of the light element, (if I am so lucky not to break it) and then sand off the edge about .1 inches and put some clear silicon around the edge for glue and push into housing... Hopefully it will look nice. Next question is, will they work good at night with the glass in front?  We will find out some dayErmm ah ... some night.Wink  LOL
  This lens above will work in another application where it is mounted back in the light bucket on the tractor and the Led snugged up from the back side against it.

 Well, this being my first try to retain some resemblance of the original look with the LED lights, there might be a chance it won't look to bad with the lens on front and just having the led original back left as it is. They do not seem to get warm.

  I do have a few of these LED lights where the plastic lens has been exposed to the elements for several years, and they do discolor, Maybe with the glass lens in front, the led lens won't discolor so fast...?  Looked to see if there was a chance to remove the plastic lense from the led but appears that is all made in one unit and only about 1/2 inch thick total.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote victoryallis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2019 at 5:05am
Why cobble them up? LED is the greatest thing since sliced bread. If your that much of a purist better run stock lights.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DennisA (IL) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2019 at 6:16am
It would be nice to have LED lights with the look of the conventional lights.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2019 at 6:44am
They make them that way already

I think Larsen Lights have them. If not it was somewhere else I've seen them but I've seen them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2019 at 6:46am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2019 at 6:53am
There ya go. A-40-0025 is the magic number......
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JC(WI) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JC(WI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2019 at 7:35am
sheitsky juss $29 bucks... wonder if it is genuine glass or plastic lens...

 Got me to looking and found Halogen 50 watts for 8 bucks plus shipping... they do get hot, and attract bugs unlike the LED's, but could warm the finger tips up on them lights in dead of winter. LOL
 Thanks fellas.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2019 at 8:03am
What I do not like of LED lamps is in the cold they will not self defrost or defog, next to nothing for heat in them. Couple cities are fighting that issue these days as in winter the lights load with snow and not readily seen, a few major money accidents occurred where the savings got spent anyway.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2019 at 8:05am
Hmmm don't know. I do have two standard led light replacement bulbs for my 200 from Larsen sitting in a box in the shop but haven't really looked at them. I think they are the high-low beam 3-B-35-0008.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chad (MN) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2019 at 12:42pm
The Larsen LEDs  are glass.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2019 at 8:58pm
Thanks for this post, I was looking to update to LED and I feel the same way about how they look. I like the Larsen glass LED. I think I will order some. Factory lamps are not very bright. Does the LED use less amperage? If I use my flashers, which also turns on the outside lights in the fender, and use 2 auxiliary flasher lights back to an implement it will melt the light fuse holder eventually but not blow the 20 amp fuse. That would be my main reason to switch to LED.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chad (MN) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2019 at 8:20am
LEDs should be consuming fewer amps than hallogen, etc.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HudCo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2019 at 9:56am
i agree glass lens are king over the plastic all turns brown 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2019 at 10:40am
JC, I've had the same idea as you upgrading to LED, but keeping the look of the traditional glass lens. I need better lights on my cotton stripper, because I'm outdriving my headlights at night, only going 10 mph. It really is that bad. Call me a bad operator if you want, but I get lost in the field at night because I can't see where I'm at, and I can only see about 30' in front of me. 

The Larsen flood light like you posted with the trapezoid glass lens looks very nice. I've recently learned that pattern on the glass is what causes the light to be spread out and work well in a flood light application. I want to add a couple spot lights to my machine, so I think the trapezoid glass lens would mess that up maybe, which I guess is why they don't offer a spot light with that style lens. 
If these lights are as good as everyone is saying, I may have to try them. I see they offer the flood and spot lights both at 1450 lumens. I don't know what my old halogen lights are, but the Larsen site says 400-600 lumens. I've been looking at Tiger Lights, which are 2200 lumens. They cost $20 more, and I don't know if the 750 Lumen increase is worth it? I wish I had a guide from the bulb manufacturers that made it easier to understand. Actual photos of the lights in the field at night would help a ton, or anything visual. 

Here's what I've been looking at from Tiger Lights. It says they are 24 Watt, and the Larsen lights are 30 Watt. Does that just correspond to energy usage I guess? With the Larsen having the higher wattage, it seems they would be brighter instead of the other way around. But then again, I've been told wattage has nothing to do with Lumen rating. 


Edited by CrestonM - 15 May 2019 at 10:56am
1942 B, 1948 G, two 1950 All-Crop 60As, 1958 All-Crop Super 100, 1975 860 Cotton Stripper
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JC(WI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2019 at 1:21pm
Creston, I can tell you this, if you want to see across the field like it was daylite, look at this light. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wagner-4509-Sealed-Beam-Headlamp-Headlight-Bulb-13V-100W/183513017765?epid=1354137930&hash=item2aba3a6da5:g:eB4AAOSwlxxb2frL
 I had bought a set of these Wagner 4509 from TS years ago, and set them up on the tractor , they were only 100 watts each  and were marked halogen H3 on back of lens... those things were bright... Listed in ebay as spot - aircraft landing lights. This is the kind you just turn on when you need them. they do not have as long a life as others do. but they are long distance beams. I don't know if there are any LED lights that can can match them in distance, but suppose there is. 
 On my loader tractor, I am putting back in some Halogen 55watt Wagner H7610. The original 35 watt lights were not bright enough and I put these in many years back too and average life expectancy was 4000 hours. One burnt out two years ago and the other last year... and felt like I was in the dark. Just ordered 4 more of these lights again.

These throw better light than the ones below
 

This fellow has two for 15 bucks and 10 bucks shipping...

 I do have a set of these that I will be mounting on the loader itself someday to get the light forward farther and stop having glare in the eyes from the fender lights.
 Back in the 80's I converted the WD45 over to 12 volts and put halogen sealed beams in behind the glass lenses and that brightend up everything, then I mounted some halogen driving lights up on the hood bolts they were called FireCracker and had capsule H3 bulbs in them and boy was it fun cultivating at night with that light set up. Having the ability to see what you were cultivating and seeing out across the field.
 Good luck on your quest for night vision...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farmboy520 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2019 at 6:33pm
I have a pair of those spot lights on the front of my 7010 and you and can see a good 1/4 mi easily. I put some rigid led spots on the front of my 7060 for planting and I think they go farther yet.
On the farm: Agco Allis 9695, 7060, 7010, R62, Farmall H, and Farmall F20 (Great Grandpa's)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2019 at 9:05pm
Those halogen Wagner 4509 spot lights look pretty enticing, if they really do shine that far. Sounds like I'd be able to see into the future with those...
They're cheap enough, but shows average life to only be 25 hours. Sounds like I better buy a few extras on hand, or else not run them as much. 

I don't know what the current factory lights' wattage is, but is all this wattage something that is going to tax my alternator or cause wires to get hot, if I replace the 2 bottom cab lights with those? 

Right now I've got 6 lights on my cab...(Same cab as Gleaner L)....it has 2 driving lights on the top that point straight ahead, right under those are 2 work lights that are angled downward (these 4 lights are wired to the same switch), and the previous owner added 2 more lights at the bottom of the cab, also pointing straight ahead. Those 2 the PO added are on their own switch...I'm not sure if it's fused or not. I'm thinking if I go that Wagner 4509 route, I may put those at the bottom of the cab pointing ahead, since they would be on their own switch. 

I'm thinking I'll replace the top 4 lights with the LED's from Larsen discussed earlier. 
So, I guess as far as the watts go....100+100+30+30+30+30 = 320 watts drawn from just the 6 cab lights, plus whatever the 4 other factory lights on the sides of the machine draw. Does that sound like a problem? 
1942 B, 1948 G, two 1950 All-Crop 60As, 1958 All-Crop Super 100, 1975 860 Cotton Stripper
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JC(WI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2019 at 11:10pm
How big is your alternator?
12 volts x 32 amp alternator = 384 watts
320 watts / 12 volts =  26.67 amps

If you run all the lights 320 watts + the other four which probably are 35 watt each would be another 140 watts 460 watt total.
460 watts / 12 = 38.4 amps...  are there any other electricals in the cab to run fans, pumps or actuators???

If your running 30 amps up to 16 ft, you should have 10 gauge automotive wire,
 If your running heavier load like 35-50 amps 10-20 feet, run 8 gauge up to where the loads are spread out on other circuits and also down to the hot post on the starter where generally it is attached.  Can also put in light load switchs with relays for the lights too....
 Think I would throw on a 60+amp alternator and then run 6 gauge and put in a circuit breaker and a 60 amp gauge. Then you have ample capacity to add more load on if needed. jmho
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2019 at 11:22pm
I don't know off hand what gauge the wiring is. I'd have to look. I also don't remember what amp the alternator is, I'll have to check. 
In addition to the lights on the exterior, the only other electricals I can think of are radio, monitor warning lights (4 small  bulbs), and cab fan.  
I've got a lot of learning to do about electricity still...load switches, relays, circuit breakers, etc. 
Edit: I just watched a video about relays and how to wire them up, and those things are very neat! Now I think I understand how multiple lights can be safely wired together with 1 smaller switch, and how I would need to go about wiring up those Wagner lights, if I go that route. Also figured out how to determine how many watts a relay can handle, so that's another step out of the way. 


Edited by CrestonM - 15 May 2019 at 11:48pm
1942 B, 1948 G, two 1950 All-Crop 60As, 1958 All-Crop Super 100, 1975 860 Cotton Stripper
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote coggonobrien Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2019 at 9:19am
your light pattern is going to be crap putting another lens in front of the led
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2019 at 9:30am
Larsen did it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote coggonobrien Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2019 at 11:25am
Larsen is not running 2 lenses
Larsen is not using a lense designed for the light of a single pint incandescent to distribute the light of multiple led's.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2019 at 7:30pm
A LUMEN is a specific amount of light. No matter what bulb your candle you use, you can compare LUMENS... You cannot compare WATTS since a WATT is volts x amps ..... LEDs use about  1/6 as many amps as an incandescent bulb for the same LUMENS... so LEDS are more efficient, no heat output, and lower amps ........... so compare LUMENS.
 
How Many Lumens Do You Need?
More Lumens = More Light
If you used to buy this in incandescentLook for this much light in lumensLED
(most efficient)
CFL
(more efficient)
Halogen
(more efficient incandescent)
100 W1600up to 22 Wup to 26 Wup to 72 W
75 W1100up to 20 Wup to 23 Wup to 53 W
60 W800up to 12 Wup to 15 Wup to 43 W
40 W450up to 9 Wup to 11 Wup to 29 W
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2019 at 10:09am
Steve, I may be wrong on this, but a couple days ago I looked up info for the Wagner 4509 halogen light JC was talking about, and while I couldn't find lumens, several websites listed it as 110,000 candlepower. So, I looked around for a formula to convert candlepower to lumens, and read 1 candlepower = 12.57 lumens. So I did some math and arrived at this figure.... 1,382,700 lumens. Now, either I messed up big time, or that's a super bright light.

Edited by CrestonM - 17 May 2019 at 10:12am
1942 B, 1948 G, two 1950 All-Crop 60As, 1958 All-Crop Super 100, 1975 860 Cotton Stripper
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