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Keyways in L306 Woods |
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Ted J
Orange Level Joined: 05 Jul 2010 Location: La Crosse, WI Points: 18789 |
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Posted: 07 Jan 2024 at 1:40am |
After watching Thads' thread and video about broaching keyways, I am going to ask a question that has befuddled me since I owned my first Woods L306. I have as yet NEVER had the good luck to dismount the pulleys from the mower. I have broken off MANY 1/4" bolts that are SUPPOSED to push the head of the pulley off the shaft and make them into two parts so you can work on them. Additionally, what grade bolt are these 1/4" bolts supposed to be? I'm sure at this point that there are a good number of guys out there that have the same problem and are looking for a solution. WHAT is the best way to take these pulleys apart without breaking off a bolt or stripping the threads on the pulleys? Hopefully this questions is as clear as,,,,,,,well mud...
Edited by Ted J - 07 Jan 2024 at 1:41am |
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
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DiyDave
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 51415 |
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If you are talking about the 2 piece tapered pulleys with the 3 pusher screws, here's what I do. First soak all in your favorite penetrating oil. Then remove the holding screws, and place them in the removing holes. Next, find a pipe that fits loosely around the pulley center part, but not so big as to be on any spokes of the pulley. Take a BFH, strike the pipe, snug up the bolts and take another swing. Rarely takes many swings...
The ideal, in a world where there is no rust or corrosion: If the center remains stuck, oil again, and use a puller to pull just the center. It normally has a split down one side, so occasionally they break in half. If they are really corroded, consider it a blessing if the part splits, cause it saves a lot of fussing and cussing, and a new center ain't all that expensive...
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steve(ill)
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 80372 |
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The SHOCK or IMPACT works on a lot of problems.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Ted J
Orange Level Joined: 05 Jul 2010 Location: La Crosse, WI Points: 18789 |
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What grade are those 1/4" bolts supposed to be?
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
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DiyDave
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 51415 |
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I think they are 5 or 8, but I haven't looked at one, in several years...
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Coke-in-MN
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Afton MN Points: 41485 |
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Idea is to put pressure on sleeve , then rap the assembly , little more pressure and another rap . Browning sheaves use their own sleeve , I use to use Taper Locks which had 2 allen screws to tighten and one as a release means . Those fit entirely inside the driven sprocket or sheave . Browning type were exposed and not flush fitting so outer collar could also be pulled with a gear puller
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Dakota Dave
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: ND Points: 3936 |
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I gave up on mine called to woods dealer they had one in stock. I had already snapped the bolt holding the blade . I cut the shaft with a torch picked up a new shaft and pulley was back together shortly.
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Ted J
Orange Level Joined: 05 Jul 2010 Location: La Crosse, WI Points: 18789 |
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
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