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AC WD45 
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Joined: 28 Sep 2009
Location: Mid Michigan
Points: 2060
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 Topic: INFO/QUESTIONS 3/27/11 1957 WD45 restoration
Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 4:58pm |
I told you a few weeks ago that I was planning on re doing my WD45. I started posting pics on ATF last Friday but I am just now getting around to posting them here. I am just doing a quick resto. with a good rattle can paint job because it'll be a worker and if I devote the time and money to spray gun it, I'll be afraid to use it. The only ting I'm paying close attention to is the sheet metal. The rest I'm knocking the loose stuff off with a stiff wire wheel.
Friday Night:
AS OF SUNDAY:
##NOTE: The block on the jack is re-bar reinforced and was only used long enough to get the front end off the ground for the 6ton. I do not recommend this method for extended periods of time.
I did more work yesterday and more today. I still need to take pics.
Edited by AC WD45 - 27 Mar 2011 at 10:54am
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German Shepherd dad
1957 Allis Chalmers WD45
#WD234847
1951 Allis Chalmers WD
#WD88193
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wjohn
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Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
Points: 2077
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Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 5:53pm |
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I'm hoping to rattle can paint my B this summer and I will be interested to follow your progress. Have you decided which brand of paint to use?
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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AC WD45
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Joined: 28 Sep 2009
Location: Mid Michigan
Points: 2060
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Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 8:25pm |
wjohn: I'm trying to decide between TSC, Valspar, and Plasti-kote.
I got a lot more done today. I drained the gas tank and removed it, took the carb and manifold off, and got the valve cover off. I am going to need a manifold gasket set (see pics) and a new valve cover seal.
My shop helpers Lila and Sam
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German Shepherd dad
1957 Allis Chalmers WD45
#WD234847
1951 Allis Chalmers WD
#WD88193
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Denis in MI
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Joined: 15 Sep 2009
Location: Norvell, MI
Points: 832
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Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 8:51pm |
If I was you I would go buy a 20.00 gravity feed hvlp spray gun and a gallon of primer and a gallon of enamel from tsc and throw in some hardener, It will look better, cost you less than spray cans and last longer if the tractor is being used.
Just my opinion,
Denis
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1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14
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AC WD45
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Joined: 28 Sep 2009
Location: Mid Michigan
Points: 2060
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Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 8:58pm |
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Denis: What are some cheap compressors that would keep up with one and last a while?
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German Shepherd dad
1957 Allis Chalmers WD45
#WD234847
1951 Allis Chalmers WD
#WD88193
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omahagreg
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Omaha, Nebraska
Points: 2806
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Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 9:10pm |
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I am not Denis, BUT. I bought an HVLP gun from Lowes, and really like it. My 6 gallon, oilless compressor handles it just fine. The gun and water filter set me back $100, and the Porter Cable compressor cost me $300.00. I am a carpenter, and needed a portable compressor. I am going to get a 60 gallon vertical for the shop some day, but not because of the spray gun!
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Greg Kroeker
1950 WD with wide front and Freeman trip loader
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Oldoug
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 1121
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Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 9:28pm |
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I vote for a cheap paint gun also.
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Matt Folkers
FOLKERS RESTORATION
Restoring vintage things to last so the future can enjoy our past.
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Joe(OH)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Montezuma, Ohio
Points: 983
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Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 9:33pm |
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I bought a gun for $10 or $15 from harbor freight a while back and it was used to paint a pickup that still looks good and for various other jobs. I would recommend one. I just picked up a cheap set from TSC a few weeks ago for $30 bucks with two guns. I havent used them for a big job yet but so far they seem ok.
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Life is simpler when you plow around the stump.
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chllngr528
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Joined: 02 Feb 2011
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Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 9:40pm |
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I vote also for a HVLP gun. Its not how many gallons the air compressor is its the SCFM. HVLP guns eat a lot of air. But your typical 25 gallon should be able to keep up for painting tractor parts as long as your not shooting the whole thing at once.
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BennyLumpkin
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Joined: 22 Mar 2010
Location: Centre Hall, PA
Points: 2657
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Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 10:08pm |
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Id scrub that thing down real good with Oven Cleaner to degrease it before you wanna try painting it.....that'll get you good and clean.
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Central PA Allis Express
1934 WC254
1945 WF
1945 WC135755
1951 WD68085
1953 WD45-150217
1957 WD45D-230744D
B110
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CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
Points: 22824
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Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 10:18pm |
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If that front exhaust port has been leaking very long, a new gasket won't last long. I put a new manifold on the 45 and had to go back and pull the head to mill it so the ports were all on the same plane again.
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JC-WI
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: wisconsin
Points: 33935
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Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 10:51pm |
Plane the manifold.
I agree with the others, soak it in oven cleaner, wash it and Hvlp it. You will like it bettere and it will last much longer. Rattle can jobs don't last very long when the stuff sits out over summer.
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Denis in MI
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Location: Norvell, MI
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Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 10:58pm |
I bought a set of guns from the Menards store for about 25 bucks, It came with a full size gun with a quart resevoir and a touch up gun with a pint container. I use a 30 gallon compressor but it is overkill for a hvlp gun, hvlp's don't nearly as much air as the old guns, I would say you don't need alot of compressor, on most newer spray gun boxes it will tell you how much air you need and most compressors tell you how much they can make.
Sorry I was a little late to reply,
Denis
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1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14
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AC WD45
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Joined: 28 Sep 2009
Location: Mid Michigan
Points: 2060
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Posted: 03 Mar 2011 at 1:16pm |
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Pulled the PTO drive housing last night, I was going to attempt to repair what I thought wa sjust a broken gasket (ya right it's going to be that easy). The only think left of said gasket was a 1/4" strup hugging the inside of the housing. It's a wonder it held any oil atall. I also got the rearend drained and the hydro pump drained. I'm taking the housing to the farm to put it in the parts cleaner tommarow night, aswell as some other misc parts. Yes, I am going to use oven cleaner, after I scrape the 1/4" of grease off the underside.
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German Shepherd dad
1957 Allis Chalmers WD45
#WD234847
1951 Allis Chalmers WD
#WD88193
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Jacob (WI,ND)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
Points: 1247
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Posted: 03 Mar 2011 at 8:26pm |
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Another vote here on the NO rattle can approach. Either find someone with a gun to help/borrow, or buy yourself a cheap gun. It will end up being less expensive and MUCH better. We've done tractors both ways (rattle vs. gun) and would never do a rattle job again.
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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AC WD45
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Location: Mid Michigan
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Posted: 06 Mar 2011 at 1:58pm |
Pulling the steering wheel.
I hammers the straight pin out and nicked the steering wheel with the hammer. Broke a piece of the plastic off, Son of a -- was complete before I hit it!!! Needless to say I'm not happy. Now to see how well Gorilla Glue really works.
Differential cover off to inspect and replace gasket.
As It Sits now:
Grandpa always said the PTO housing's gasket was bad. But HOLY CRAP!!! It's a wonder this thing had any oil in it at all let alone an ice cream pail full!
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German Shepherd dad
1957 Allis Chalmers WD45
#WD234847
1951 Allis Chalmers WD
#WD88193
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AC WD45
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Joined: 28 Sep 2009
Location: Mid Michigan
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Posted: 06 Mar 2011 at 2:15pm |
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Also got some oven cleaner today. I need to apply it yet but I hope it works as well as people say.
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German Shepherd dad
1957 Allis Chalmers WD45
#WD234847
1951 Allis Chalmers WD
#WD88193
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DMiller
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Hermann, Mo
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Posted: 06 Mar 2011 at 5:09pm |
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Keep the PTO gasket shards, many of these are shim gaskets and you will need to use the same thickness going back together.
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AC WD45
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Posted: 06 Mar 2011 at 5:47pm |
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Those are on the shaft stud it self correct? I've had that off and cleaned them up real good and put sealer on the two outer ones and put it back together. There where no shim gaskets on the top but I think it has been off before to as someone tried to substitute silicone as a gasket. The Agco/Kubota dealer south of me has every gasket set there is for WD45 or if they don't, they make them so I'm not too worried.
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German Shepherd dad
1957 Allis Chalmers WD45
#WD234847
1951 Allis Chalmers WD
#WD88193
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CTuckerNWIL
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Location: NW Illinois
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Posted: 06 Mar 2011 at 7:05pm |
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Lucas, The thickness of the gaskets in your hand, set the backlash between the gears when you put it back together. Too little and you will grind something up, too much and you could break a tooth.
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AC WD45
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Joined: 28 Sep 2009
Location: Mid Michigan
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Posted: 06 Mar 2011 at 7:25pm |
Yes. The Agco dealer has been in business since '38. I used to be AC and they supply parts for AC tractors. They have a 20X30 room wall to wall with AC OEM manuals, parts ref, stats books You name it, they have it. I know the bossman really well, hes an AC collector himself.
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German Shepherd dad
1957 Allis Chalmers WD45
#WD234847
1951 Allis Chalmers WD
#WD88193
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AC WD45
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Joined: 28 Sep 2009
Location: Mid Michigan
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Posted: 20 Mar 2011 at 6:52pm |
Been a while since I've updated this. In the past two weeks, I've gotten a lot done. I removed the hand clutch inspection cover and cleaned it up. I also decided to cut most of my own gaskets. It's cheaper on gas and gaskets. I got the rear diff gasket cut and put the cover on. I'm using "Ultra Red RTV gasket maker/conditioner" as a sealer. Just another step toward preventing leaks. I also took off all of the electrical and all oil/hydraulic lines. A little more clean up and it will be ready for paint. I also got all the chloride drained out of the rim that needs to be patched.. I talked to the guy who is going to patch the rim up, he said we are going to just cut the bad part out, find a donor rim, and weld a new piece back in with the MIG. I trust his judgement, He's been farming for 70 years or more and has been welding for the sawmill and local farmers for 50-60 years. Pics are below. Also included is a decent pic of my truck. I asked the neighbor to help me pull the tractor out with his quad so I could get it out, which we did, and we pushed it back in. He said he used to live there, and when he bought the house in the 80's, it was so bad no one could live here. He renovated it and tore down 2 big barns. He kept cattle and farmed the land (250 acres) until 2002. with an Allis Chalmers 170. 
All I need to clean up yet besides the front of the block aand the transmission/gear box give or take a few little things:
I got one bead loose but it started raining real hard so I leaned it against the chair and stuck one of the wheel weights in the back to keep the wind from blowing it back over.
The next day
Before grinding out the bad spot
after
I am looking fore a 1 3/4 inch "old square back style" rain cap. It's what was original and I like the look next to the round ones Best way to contact me is via PM or go to my profile and click e-mail. Flat rate shipping preferred.
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German Shepherd dad
1957 Allis Chalmers WD45
#WD234847
1951 Allis Chalmers WD
#WD88193
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Ted J
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Location: La Crosse, WI
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Posted: 21 Mar 2011 at 7:52am |
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HOW did you get the pin out of the steering wheel so you could take the wheel off? I can't get mine to budge!! I've considered drilling it out, but....
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Matt MN
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Location: Silver lake MN
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Posted: 21 Mar 2011 at 9:28am |
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I have used an air hammer and they come right out. You have to look closely at them because they mostly only come out 1 direction kinda have a "rounded" head on one side that wont go through the steering wheel.
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Unless your are the lead horse the scenery never changes!!
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Jeff(WD45-SATX-TN)
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Posted: 21 Mar 2011 at 9:45am |
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Took me a couple weeks of trying to get my wheel off the 45. It was totally rusted in that area, no paint left. I just heated it over and over, the entire center hub. Used some loose juice, then more heat. I had lots of time on my side, so I took it slow. But after continued heating I could see the pin starting to free up form the center hub. Heated it up again and then used a punch to drive it out. Need to be careful as it is a tapered pin. Once the pin was out, more heat and penetrating oil. Used a puller while it was nice and hot. She came right off. Good Luck.
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1954 WD45 NF "Iron Tater"
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Jim Lindemood
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Posted: 21 Mar 2011 at 10:40am |
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Project coming right along -- you'll have that baby up and working before ya know it.
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karen097
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Joined: 21 Mar 2011
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Posted: 21 Mar 2011 at 11:02am |
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your pics look good! I used to work in an auto parts store and dealt with alot of farmers and I think the only way to get a good job on painting is to buy a hvlp gun and spray it with allis chalmers orange #1. You will have a good job if you do, good luck
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AC WD45
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Posted: 21 Mar 2011 at 8:33pm |
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Got a guy (Rominmi) says I can use his gun. His dad was my grandpa's neighbor for 30 years. Good guy, they've farmed with AC as long as I can remember. They've got a series 1? D17 and a 190 (xt?). I'll more than likely go with the Restoration Series at TSC to save money. Grandpa used it on his C and it looks good/lasted a long time. We'll see. Thanks for the replies!
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German Shepherd dad
1957 Allis Chalmers WD45
#WD234847
1951 Allis Chalmers WD
#WD88193
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AC WD45
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Location: Mid Michigan
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Posted: 27 Mar 2011 at 10:48am |
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Well, I bought a junked out rim. -$50. Joe said he'd get to it durring the week. 15x28 John Deere front loop rim that the loops where breaking out of. Got it from Worthington AG. I am also peening my own gaskets. (for those of you who don't know you lay the gasket material over the oil pan, head etc. and lightly tap along the edge to cent or cut the material). Grandpa taught me this money saving trick years ago when we restored the John Deere B that John Gensterblum gave us. I've got the hand clutch inspection cover back on and the distributer back together. Could someone tell me the Firing order on the WD45? I set it to 1, 2, 4, 3 but I don't know if thats right for sure. I reset the timing to, this was simple to do surprisingly. I've got the front axel off to, But I need to heat the tie rod ends to get them off. Also, Any suggestions on how to get the real wheel rail clamps loose, I got them off but I need to get the set screws loose. Thanks. I can already smell the paint.
Luke.
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German Shepherd dad
1957 Allis Chalmers WD45
#WD234847
1951 Allis Chalmers WD
#WD88193
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AC WD45
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Location: Mid Michigan
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Posted: 27 Mar 2011 at 10:52am |
 Ted J wrote:
HOW did you get the pin out of the steering wheel so you could take the wheel off? I can't get mine to budge!! I've considered drilling it out, but.... |
A long punch and a big ball peen hammer... No PB blaster. Keep in mind that I havn't done anything except rust removal with any air/power tools. I used the sam method to knock the pin out of the U joint.
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German Shepherd dad
1957 Allis Chalmers WD45
#WD234847
1951 Allis Chalmers WD
#WD88193
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