Info on allis h4 crawler seals

I have a seal leaking on the right side rear sprocket. The way I read the manual is I can replace it with out removing the case. if I remove the inner plug underneath what size of nut is there when I remove the plug. it is suppose to be torqued at 140 lbs so do I loosen it up before I remove the tracks. after I remove the tracks and sprocket and loosen the bearing cap what do I have to watch for to remove the drive shaft supposing the shaft will come out easily. im hoping if I leave the inner nut on but backed off so no threads are showing I can use a hammer to drive it out. Any information will help me. never have done this but willing to try. thanks norm

Yes. I have a service manual. just wondered if anyone has done this and what experiences they had getting the drive sprocket shaft out. thanks

I replaced bearings and seal on my H3 back in the 80s and could not get the original type of seal for the axle back then. That was before Al Gore invented the internet so I just put two ordinary lip seals with stainless springs in, one each way. They did not last long so I just add oil when I use it. 

remove the soft plug in rear case inner side - believe it is held with snap ring 
Dang its been 25 years back when i said ENOUGH and traded off my HD4 on a skid loader and a FD5 Dozer along with a AC 715B - TLB . Kept 2 HD5G machines as they don't need baby setting like the HD4 did 
 behind that cover is the part holding axle into timken bearing cone - remove nut and axle will slide through gear and outboard bearing , somewhere there are shims involved also  . Like is mentioned it's been a few years and when i was doing it ANGER was part of the equation along with rush as a job was in progress.
 Seals can be found at a bearing supplier (industrial components handling firm) if the axle is worn a new lip seal might also leak so if shaft has grooves you can get a Speedy Sleeve to fit onto axle and then the proper seal to fit that . 
 I did that on several axles as I had bought ones that had been welded and machined but the axles lost the stress relief and shattered where hub was part of axle . 
  I was using a 14' AC 650 backhoe attachment on machine and it put to much weight on rear sprockets when using machine .  

Edited by Coke-in-MN - 27 Jul 2018 at 5:48pm

Oh another thing - those timken bearings in the axles are small sized and a lot of stress is put on the races - both the rear cases on my HD4 had to be machined and a steel bearing cup retainer machined to fit the cast case , then welded into the case . 
 Check for movement of the axle in the races - as wear or lose bearing will also wipe out a seal quickly 

well Norman, we all love the challenge of a newly purchased machine, but there are some aggravating things like snap rings. I take a long thin blade flat screw driver and small hammer and try driving the blade tip under the end or the snap ring. once removed then you can take the nut with keeper washer off. I think it will push out the sprocket side pretty easy. I think you also will have to remove the bottom pan in order to push the bull gear up to slide pin through it on re-assemble .

How bad is the seal leaking ? I know owners that have went to a much thicker gear oil and stopped the leaking.

ok norm, if it has been ran low on oil and the bearings are bad, you will need to look at the other bearings in the top of the final case. they would require removal of the clutches to repair these. Hope enough oil circulated to keep all lubed.

Wire-fencing wrapped around a sprocket axle will get a seal also. Poly twine can too. HTH Tracy

The h4 gasser I bought a few years back when I looked at it in the rain and cold I didn't notice the right rear sprocket leaning some. it worked pretty well. so when he delivered it it started it up and drove it into the barn but had noticed it when I did. when I bought it I sort of thought if I spend 1000 dollars to get it up in good running order I would be satisfied. OOPS--BAD RIGHT REAR CASING AND A GEAR. THERE went my 1000 bucks and I knew I still needed a roller and rear sprockets. Managed to do all the work myself except I had a friend of mine to install new bearings, seals in the case. Put new clutch and bands in at the same time. So yes it can be expensive but except for a upper roller seal leaking it runs good with no leaks. on this one I am thinking if I get by with 1000 dollars to get it up and running good I will be satisfied. I have all the manuals but some times I get a little confused. that's why I ask questions on here. most folks has been very good about helping me with that and I really thank those people as there are some people on here that really are good with this stuff. now I will have to get some one to take this lower drive out as I tried yesterday to work on the snap ring but hard to take it out laying under the dozer but you only have one decent arm to use. one good thing this morning we are getting some rain. that in iself is making my day as it is extememly dry here.