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jrsinn83 
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 Topic: How to tie down WC tractor on trailor
Posted: 03 Jul 2018 at 6:18pm |
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Just wanted to know if any of you have a certain set up when it comes to loading a tractor on a trailer. Wanting to be safe and the way we are doing it now scares the hell out of me. Anybody want to make a video with there WC or any allis tractor would be great.
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Butch(OH)
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Posted: 03 Jul 2018 at 6:51pm |
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Make a 3rd ramp so you can drive the tractor straight on the trailer in low gear using the first notch of throttle that brings the engine above idle, (not to be confused with the first notch on the quadrant). DO NOT clutch it halfway up!!! Seen my share of close calls at shows and every one of them involved clutching the tractor halfway up the ramps.
First thought about tie downs should holding the tractor on the trailer, there will be more than a couple scratches if it rolls off going down the road!!. We tie ours at the drawbar support and hook chains under the lower lip of the frame channel up front.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 03 Jul 2018 at 8:58pm |
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One hand on each brake handle and a third hand on the steering wheel !!
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truckerfarmer
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Posted: 03 Jul 2018 at 11:09pm |
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Proper way to tie it down is one chain at each corner pulling away from tractor at an angle. Picture a 'X' when looking down from above. Really should have a separate chain at each corner. Each chain should have it's own load binder. Reason being is if one chain loosen or breaks, the load is still secured.
Some guys will say that's overkill, but better safe than sorry.
Take note of my screen name. I have a CDL. So, been there, done that with Diesel cops.
Edited by truckerfarmer - 03 Jul 2018 at 11:13pm
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Looking at the past to see the future.
'53 WD, '53 WD45, WD snap coupler field cultivator, #53 plow,'53 HD5B dozer
Duct tape.... Can't fix stupidity. But will muffle the sound of it!
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DrAllis
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Posted: 04 Jul 2018 at 12:20am |
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OK. We're talking a 3500 lb tractor, not 10,000 lbs. One 3/8" hiway duty transport chain at the rear over the top of the drawbar and ahead of the drawbars bail. Anchor each end to each side of the trailer bed. Drive the tractor ahead until it is tight and leave in low gear and set both brakes. This needs to be done correctly to position the tractor exactly where you want it located front/rear on the trailer bed for balance. The chain should not touch the rear tires but can be close to them when tight. This position should be noted where the center of the rear wheels are on the trailers bed, so it can be repeated each and every time when loading. A second 3/8" transport chain at the front thru a clevis or eye under the front of the engine front support or both side frames. This chain needs to pull forward and be cinched up as tight as possible and then one binder to put it under tension. Throw a binder on the rear chain to keep the DOT happy, but this way you really only NEED one binder pulling forward to keep things tight. I've broken binders in the past and a broken binder on the rear is stupid when (if done right) doesn't really even need to be there. Four chains and four binders is just more stuff to get loose or break. Been there and dun that for too many years.
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ErikR
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Posted: 04 Jul 2018 at 12:35am |
3500 pounds or not, it might be a good idea to use two chains on the back end.. one on each corner. Even if it means having to be inconvenienced by having to bring along twice the hardware.... That way, if one breaks or somehow becomes disconnected and you have to stop, you might be able to avoid something like this...
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1950 B
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DrAllis
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Posted: 04 Jul 2018 at 12:47am |
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You'll have a hard time convincing me there was even a rear chain on that tractor and surely not a 3/8" transport chain. It wasn't left in gear and brakes set either.
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 04 Jul 2018 at 5:57am |
I like a 'modifed' X pattern, where the left rear of the tractor is chained to the right read of the trailer, right rear of the tractor to the left rear of the trailer, same for the front. I've seen that a lot on loads on the 'Ice Road Trucker' show, maybe it's better on really bumpy roads ? The longer chain might 'give' just a little. Firm believer in more is better, safety in numbers philosophy. Heck ,when some cop passes you and sees 4-6-10 chains holding down your load,he'll probably smile at you and keep on going. Only have 2 straps and ,well, the his red lights will come on. FWIW...Tilt and load guys up here do a 3 point tiedown. Chains in each rear corner NOT crossed over and just the winch cable up front.
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AaronSEIA
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Posted: 04 Jul 2018 at 7:03am |
4 tie downs of your choice, straps or chains, one to each corner. The sum of the working load limits has to be greater than 1/2 the weight of the tractor. I have put a WC on a trailer using 2 ramps. 3 is much better. Do NOT clutch going up or coming down. Lowest gear possible at the lowest throttle setting that won't die under load going up. Backing on is really safer. AaronSEIA
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 04 Jul 2018 at 7:57am |
I use four point tie down with 3/8 chains and ratchet binders. Feels safe and secure. I cant seem to find my pictures of tractors chained down. Could you show a picture of your WC and your concerns? Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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LouSWPA
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Posted: 04 Jul 2018 at 8:32am |
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Jeffrey,
First, if it scares the hell out of you.....don't do it! seriously, your better judgement is speaking loud to you! Find a better way. For example, a 2500 pound winch will pull it on, and can be had from HF cheap.
Second, three ramps! 'nuff said there
Third, forget what everybody is telling you here about tie downs. Check with your state DOT, what do they require? I got a very informative booklet from the state of Pa by calling my local state rep that told me what I needed to know. And I can tell you the DOT don't care how the brakes are set or if the machine is in gear or not. Four separate tie down points, four separate chains, and they frown on straps. I like to criss cross the chains, simply because it gives me more room to work the binders. ratchet binders, no snapovers. you only need two binders.
But don't take my word for any of this, check with your DOT
I don't drive tractors on trailers, I winch.
One last thought, and this is important, be sure to chock the tow truck, both front and rear, AND the trailer axles! I know of two incidents where the loading was on a slight incline (well, one, not so slight) and the whole kit and caboodle took of down the hill as soon as the tractor (excavator in one case) came off the ramps onto the tail of the trailer! the weight of the machine lowered the rear of the trailer, raising the tongue, which took the weight off of the rear axle of the towing vehicle and away they went!
HTH
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I am still confident of this;
I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.
Wait for the Lord;
be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27
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LouSWPA
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Posted: 04 Jul 2018 at 8:40am |
 ErikR wrote:
3500 pounds or not, it might be a good idea to use two chains on the back end.. one on each corner. Even if it means having to be inconvenienced by having to bring along twice the hardware....That way, if one breaks or somehow becomes disconnected and you have to stop, you might be able to avoid something like this...
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Why in the world he tried to load that tractor in that bed is beyond me! It seems rather obvious it wasn't going to fit in there and besides, looks like he had a perfectly good, and empty trailer to put it on anyhow!
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I am still confident of this;
I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.
Wait for the Lord;
be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27
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chaskaduo
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Posted: 04 Jul 2018 at 9:08am |
Maybe it's Dimbulb or Trammy. 
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truckerfarmer
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Posted: 04 Jul 2018 at 9:46am |
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Google FMCSA chapter 9.
Section 3.7.1
The requirement in this section apply to the transportation of vehicles that weigh less than 10,000 lbs (4500 kg).
Section 3.7.2
Securement requirements
use at least 2 tiedowns at both the front and rear of the cargo to prevent movement.
side to side
forward and rearward
vertically
These are the MINIMUM Federal requirements. State and local laws may be stricter.
These rules apply to ALL loads, not just commercial carriers.
Ignore the people that say "I've done it like this 100 times like this". It may have worked 100 times, but, how about the 101st time. Ask the guys that have lost a body part to a corn picker or a PTO shaft. how many times did they do the same thing without any problems.
To all you guys that don't think you need to follow the rules. Next time you are heading down the road, look at the little kid in the carseat going past you. They have no control over how you secure your load. How would you feel if your tractor came loose and killed that little one.
I used to drive tow truck. I have seen the carnage of some peoples stupidity.
SECURE THAT LOAD PROPERLY!
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Looking at the past to see the future.
'53 WD, '53 WD45, WD snap coupler field cultivator, #53 plow,'53 HD5B dozer
Duct tape.... Can't fix stupidity. But will muffle the sound of it!
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truckerfarmer
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Posted: 04 Jul 2018 at 9:48am |
ErikR wrote:
3500 pounds or not, it might be a good idea to use two chains on the back end.. one on each corner. Even if it means having to be inconvenienced by having to bring along twice the hardware....That way, if one breaks or somehow becomes disconnected and you have to stop, you might be able to avoid something like this...
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This guy probably said, "I've always done it that way. it always worked before."
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Looking at the past to see the future.
'53 WD, '53 WD45, WD snap coupler field cultivator, #53 plow,'53 HD5B dozer
Duct tape.... Can't fix stupidity. But will muffle the sound of it!
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Kenny L.
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Posted: 04 Jul 2018 at 10:24am |
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Each to there own, I used to just do the one chain in the back and I chain in the front and a binder on each chain until I went to a class that the company I work for had a DOT office came and go over rules that he would look for on tie downs on a load and the first thing he said was 4 points of tie off and 4 binder for any thing above 1000 lbs and if your chains are rated as S70 witch is 10,000 you have to cut the rating in half for the chains if they don't go from one side of the trailer to the other side trailer over the top of the load , this surprised me. Here in Iowa a person was killed last month because someone didn't tie down their load right two family's lives are change forever because of it. TAKE THE DAM TIME and tie it down. JMT.
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Bill Long
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Posted: 04 Jul 2018 at 10:44am |
Back in the day (40's - 50's) we drove the tractor on the truck, locked the brakes, put in low gear, and drove off. I cannot remember a problem. Course they were new tractors with good brakes and there were no regulations of consequence. We carried them on a stake body 1946 Ford 1 1/2 Ton truck.
Later, with the advent of regulations and Department of Transportation we used chains and straps. Course with older units and no knowledge of the brakes and clutch yes you should chain or strap them to the truck body. Good Luck! Bill Long
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Dusty MI
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Posted: 04 Jul 2018 at 1:03pm |
The first winter we hauled our car on our trail behind our motor home to Florida, I got some of those loops that hook the car frame. I found that I could not bind the car down as well as it should have. While in FL. I saw a car being carried on a roll back truck, and it was held in place with straps that lassoed each tire. So I tried that, and it worked so well that is what I now do with my tractors, "G" & "D-10" I also prefer to back the tractors onto the trailer, than back off.
Dusty
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Dick L
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Posted: 04 Jul 2018 at 5:54pm |
I have hauled tractors for years without a problem. I tighten the chain that hooks toward the front of the trailer with the power of the tractor and lock down the brakes. I then chain bind the tractor with chains hooked to the rear of the trailer. I use a three foot cheater pipe on my binders and want to see tires squash when the binder locks over. I thought I had a picture of the back end of a load that the chains were clear but I guess not. The only picture of the back was one loaded to come back 1500 miles from Idabel Oklahoma.   
Edited by Dick L - 04 Jul 2018 at 6:07pm
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JC-WI
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Posted: 04 Jul 2018 at 8:27pm |
Had an old HD15 hauled 30 miles, the hauler pulled in and threw
down some blocks and jumped on the crawler to load it , opened up the
throttle, twisted her left, twisted her right and checked the brakes
and then pulled the throttle farther and went up them blocks came down
on the deck and killed the engine locked her in gear and crawled off
threw the blocks under the crawler , climbed in and took off. I believe
it took him less time to put it on then it took me to type this or for
you to read this. He got to where I wanted it unloaded,
tossed down the blocks and hit the starter , she came to life and off
the trailer he went, tossed the blocks on the bed, looked at his watch
and said 'we'll just call it an hour'. I said to him I was impressed how
he loaded her, and he said don't give them time to think about what
they are going to do, or you will have troubles. makes sense, specially
when you are in control. I asked him about not chaining down and he
said, "I would rather pay the fine than go with the load, I did that
once and that wasn't a pretty sight." That was his choice to make
wither to be legal or not. I prefer enough chains to secure the load,
and keep the state troopers happy. Trailer chains are important too... I didn't like the dinky loops the truck had so I put a few "D" rings on...Now I am happier with the safety chain attachments. Think they are over kill?
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Backwoods
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Posted: 04 Jul 2018 at 9:20pm |
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We take a few short peices of 3/8 chain and bolt them in the factory holes on the tractor. This allows us to hook the chains right on without scratching up the paint on the tractor
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Butch(OH)
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Posted: 05 Jul 2018 at 6:10am |
truckerfarmer wrote:
ErikR wrote:
3500 pounds or not, it might be a good idea to use two chains on the back end.. one on each corner. Even if it means having to be inconvenienced by having to bring along twice the hardware....That way, if one breaks or somehow becomes disconnected and you have to stop, you might be able to avoid something like this...
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This guy probably said, "I've always done it that way. it always worked before."
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How about " I aint scratching the paint on my tractor with no log chain"??
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Stan IL&TN
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Posted: 05 Jul 2018 at 7:25am |
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I always take a couple of jack stands and two 18" squares of 3/4 plywood to place under the rear of the trailer while loading/unloading. It helps keep the trailer at a level stance instead of trying to raise up the rear of the truck.
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
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Wayne180d
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Posted: 05 Jul 2018 at 7:44am |
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I always back on I feel much safer that way I also load with someone else there just to be safe in case of trouble.t
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john(MI)
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Posted: 05 Jul 2018 at 11:12am |
I hadn't noticed anyone mention it. I always haul a small jack
stand with me. I put it under the back of the trailer. To hold it up
so the front doesn't lift the truck off the ground.
I
have never used a third ramp. Pull up to the trailer ramps at an
angle, run the front up the ramp furthest away. Then once it gets on
the trailer straighten out and the rears will come up the ramps. Done
it many times, once you get the angle down it just goes right on smooth.
I
use two chains and two binders. My chains are 2 to 3 times larger than
what I really need. Use a clevis on the draw bar and around the front
axle for the chains. I also carry a pipe for the binders.
A
old guy told me once. Drive it on forwards, and when you back it off
don't turn the wheel, it should come right back the way it went on.
Don't even need to look! I do most times.
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Dusty MI
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Posted: 05 Jul 2018 at 4:50pm |
Wayne180d wrote:
I always back on I feel much safer that way I also load with someone else there just to be safe in case of trouble.t |
x2
Dusty
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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
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jrsinn83
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Posted: 06 Jul 2018 at 10:03pm |
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Thanks guys for all the advise. The trailer we have it is really easy to drive the tractor right up. The trailer is one that has a ramp and tips off a hydraulic. Once you reach a certain point in tips back down. Its more about strapping it down. We have the clevis in the back so I am glad we are right in doing that. 4 point of contact is a must for now on. Thanks again for all the advise!
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