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How far is too far? Long Post! |
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Sandknob
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Oblong, IL Points: 2456 |
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Posted: 17 Aug 2010 at 4:02pm |
I have been keeping an eye out for some ground to rent for corn/bean rotation with a little wheat occasionally. I am trying to keep it close to my other ground 25 acres, but I haven't found anything that close it seems. One patch I have a good chance at is 5 miles away south of our place (3 acres,) We will call this customer #1. While this is not many acres it is between my ground I already have and 17 acres I talked to another fellow about (cust #2). His father is getting ready to retire from farming and has the 17 acre patch (about 6 miles away south), a 5-6 acre patch (across the road from our house), and a 26 acre patch about 6 miles away to the east. There is probably 40-50 more acres surrounding the 26 as well, but it is in grass right now. Then there is also a lady north of us that has 70 acres (40 acre square field, with 20 acre square on the side and 10 acres .5 miles up the road) Problem with this patch is it is 12 miles away, but to make it a little better my Father in Law has 15 acres 2 miles south of it I could pick up as well. How far do you all travel for your fields. Any opinions? I also work a full time job on side, but my dad has offered to run the tractors if needed.
He really enjoys getting out and running the machinery and was a huge help this spring.
Thanks
Adam Edited by Sandknob - 17 Aug 2010 at 4:09pm |
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Sandknob
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Oblong, IL Points: 2456 |
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I should mention that all but one field is nice mostly flat ground.
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wekracer
Orange Level Joined: 13 Oct 2009 Location: Tebbetts, MO Points: 1587 |
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it's hard for me to picture from your description, but the way i always look at is the drive worth the time? 70 acres 12 miles away might be a stretch but if you've got a farm or two in between and you can keep working as you go than it might be a different story. what kind of ground speed do your tractors have?
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bigfish_Oh
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: West Liberty,Oh Points: 1226 |
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I do not farm, but know my Uncle farms from corner of county to the other. His tires show it. Rains with bad timing cause him many wasted trips to keep things moving. If your ground speed is a WD45, that's a lot different than a 190.
good luck
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1941 WC sat for 29 years,started & dynoed 27 h.p.
1957 WD45 Grandpa bought new,factory p.s.,added wfe 1951 WD, factory p.s. 1960 D14 HnMk IV BkHoe 4 sale 2014 HD Tri Glide 2009 GMC CC SLT Dually |
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Sandknob
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Oblong, IL Points: 2456 |
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190 is main tractor, D17 & 960 ford for smaller stuff. Would like to move up to 200 or 7030-7040 but cash is limiting factor there. Gleaner F for combine (also have an A2), but thinking of moving up to a nice late model (gulp, don't shoot me) 6600 deere with 20ft platform and 6 row head. I know the history of it and its a good combine. Also considered a 1440 or 1460 IH, but once again the cash factor gets in the way.
Adam
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Sandknob
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Oblong, IL Points: 2456 |
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If I can figure how to draw a map and post it I will.
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Brad(WI)
Silver Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Oxford Points: 186 |
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12 miles might seem far, but if you have a decent chunk of ground, it would be worth it. 70 acres and 15 acres would make the 45 minute trip each way OK. I would set it up so when I was nearly finished tillage, someone (your father) would have the planter there. He could transport with the 45, do the tillage and planting with the 190, if you need the size. There wouldn't be valuable time wasted driving. As soon as disking is done, you start planting. BTW I farm all over, up to 7 miles in any direction from farm. We take field size, soil type, and rent to determine if it's worth the drive.
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John (C-IL)
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Illinois Points: 1654 |
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I farm 18 acres in town, 10 miles away from the home farm for the elevator where the test plot is. Were it not the test plot to support the elevator seed business I wouldn't do it. The minimum I would go 10 miles for is 40 acres, and it had better be a pretty good 40. I have a good job with the elevator and it would take a pretty good farming enterprise to make me give up any of that. Farming is my therapy, haven't paid a shrink yet. Farming patches I would need a shrink regularly.
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clovis
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Points: 384 |
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Have you sat down with a note pad, and figured up your inputs and revenues, based on each plot of ground?
Sometimes, when I get into a business opportunity, I sit down and figure what I think my profits will be on the deal, and decide from there. It really helps clear the mind. For instance, in your case, I'd factor just the acreage to the south, and then figure the acreage to the east. Then figure the costs/profits on the land to your north. Its going to be hard to figure yields on some of that ground, but maybe you can work off of your county yield average. Have any of the acres been soil tested? I work a 'deal sheet' or a 'profit sheet' on nearly every deal that I do, before the fact. It has helped save me from working for 54 cents an hour many, many times, and helped me be more profitable at other work. It also makes me more diligent about certain things, like locked in costs, pitfalls I need to avoid, etc. Working a 'deal sheet' also has helped me figure out new possibilities, like looking at hiring someone to help (during planting season), or subbing out other work (custom combining). HTH, even though you've probably done this stuff already. |
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Dave in il
Orange Level Joined: 22 Sep 2009 Location: Manville Il Points: 1748 |
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So if my math is right, with 40 acres of grass included, your talking about a possability adding nearly 175 acres? With the 25 you have would be about 200 total. That is a big jump. The extra time you're going to need to get that planted, harvested and mowed, etc, even without the road time, is a big deal.
Last fall I "lost" $5000 in days I would normally have been working off the farm but instead I was basically sitting in line at the grain elevator. Remember, weather and crops don't care when you scheduled your vacation days and your boss doesn't want to hear about what needs to be done on your farm.
Clovis is right, you aren't going to net much money on that type of acreage but you will spend a ton for inputs. You need to pencil it out field by field or you can easily lose more than you make.
If your just looking to expand your hobby I'm not sure what to tell you. On the other hand if you are trying to build a viable farming operation, I wolud say go for the larger pieces and the square pieces as they are more time efficient. Move to minimum or no till as quickly as you can, retire the gas tractors and move to a 7010, 7045, 7060 or preferably an 8010, 8030 or 8050, something that will handle a 15' notill drill and a 6 or 8 row notill planter. Buy the best planter you can afford it will make you more money than any other piece of equipment you'll own. And your definatly looking in the right direction at combines (if the 6600 is a diesel). Is the grassland in CRP or hay/pasture?
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MI8050
Orange Level Joined: 08 Oct 2009 Location: West Central MI Points: 226 |
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We are spread out a bit, covering about 400 acres, none of it is more than three miles from the two places but the two places are three miles apart. We took some really decent ground this year and it is really paying off. I got a different 6 row planter this year for better placement and for next years crops am starting some no-till (beans and wheat). I finally figured out that my time IS worth something and I am going to farm profitably with the least amount of time input. I like it alot but it can't run my life. I also am going to be very selective on my custom jobs, spraying has been profitable but my combine work is typically too cheap....
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AaronSEIA
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Mt Pleasant, IA Points: 2558 |
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Dad farms almost 300 acres 25 miles away from the home farm. Makes for a long drive wth a tractor, but it's not too bad. 7060 and 7000 AC, combine is a 8560 MF. Has a grain setup and 2 elevators within 10 miles of the ground. More than one big time operator around "here" runs 30+ miles for ground. Depends on how bad you want it and how well you can farm it.
AaronSEIA
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Sandknob
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Oblong, IL Points: 2456 |
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I suppose I'd better give a little more info here as it sounds I may need it. I am looking to move this past the hobby stage over time. This won't all be this year or next by the way. I may have a chance at the 70 for next year as well as the 3 acres for next year. The other fellow may or may not retire in next couple of years. His son just brought it up with me, and I told him I would be interested. I work as a LP salesman for a Coop. So come spring is my downtime, but we are still busy at the plant. I am able to take off if needed though. I run a late model #56 IH 6 row planter with double disc openers (won't find a nicer one) and have a #333 Allis no till planter with 10 units for beans. I do have a smaller model disc 10ft though and would really like to move to a larger disc. Also run a Glencoe 13ft field cultivator and a Dunham Lehr 13ft cultimulcher. I have access to NH3 application equipment and fertilizer equipment since I work at the Coop. Also can get employee discounts on inputs as well which helps some. I do have a nice computer program thru the Coop that I can figure inputs/costs/yields/grain pricing into and it will give breakeven figures, production cost pie chart, return per acre, % of return on investment, etc. Its really a nice program. Thanks Adam |
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Sandknob
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Oblong, IL Points: 2456 |
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What is the value of a good 6600 with 20ft head? New radiator, new injection pump, hydro, diesel, good rice tires. I hate to go green, but parts are easier to get as are heads. I really would like a 1460, but lowest I have seen is $7000-$8000 for a halfway decent machine. Adam
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