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Denis in MI 
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Joined: 15 Sep 2009
Location: Norvell, MI
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 Topic: How do you fix this
Posted: 01 Feb 2011 at 6:37am |
I an trying to repair a bracket that holds the unloading auger for a New Holland 351 Mixer Grinder. So far the repair is working, since yesterday it was missing one of the arms and now I have welded it back together hopefully good enough to hold. The problem is that one of the ears that holds the auger is broken and the owner does not have the missing piece. I considered welding a washer on to hold it but I am unsure about welding steel to cast.
Here is a picture to show my first repair
and her is what I need to fix
Any Ideas, Thoughts, or Help is appreciated
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1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14
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JohnThomas
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Location: Traverse City
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Posted: 01 Feb 2011 at 6:54am |
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Can you get a piece of cast....bore it....carefully (alignment)..cut off the broken end of fork and affix the block to the fork? Just be sure to align the new bore hole with a temporary rod into the other end of fork.
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mikehur
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Posted: 01 Feb 2011 at 7:32am |
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Black iron pipe?
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Adam Stratton
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Posted: 01 Feb 2011 at 7:36am |
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Find a piece of another junk Ujoint or drive line that has similar dimensions and use a cut-off wheel to take the piece you need, I like the pipe idea as well. Good luck!
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Nathan (SD)
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Posted: 01 Feb 2011 at 8:26am |
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Welding regular steel to cast with nickel rod is the best way to repair cast iron.
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bill2260
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Posted: 01 Feb 2011 at 8:27am |
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I would see if part is available from nh or see if you could find one from junk yard. Especially if he is planning on running for a while. Bill
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Denis in MI
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Posted: 01 Feb 2011 at 8:29am |
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yeah I like the pipe Idea too I just don't know what pipe is made of. Is black pipe made from cast iron or something that would expand and contract at a similar rate to cast. If it is I could just get a some with a 3/4 id and cut it to the correct fit. I like John Thomas's idea but I am afraid of cuttiong anything off because it holds a set of gears in mesh and the fit is very important.
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1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14
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Denis in MI
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Posted: 01 Feb 2011 at 8:31am |
 bill2260 wrote:
I would see if part is available from nh or see if you could find one from junk yard. Especially if he is planning on running for a while. Bill |
Local junk yard quoted over 300 for one and they said it had been repaired before. aparantley this is a weak design and is a common failure. I guess this part is specific to the 351 grinder too. The later ones used a different part is what I was told. Plus he only uses it to grind about 5-600 bushels of corn a year.
Edited by Denis in MI - 01 Feb 2011 at 8:32am
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1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14
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Dick L
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Posted: 01 Feb 2011 at 2:11pm |
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Are you sure it is cast iron? I would think it would be steel. Not a lot of cast iron used where it gets side twist pressure.
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Rawleigh
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Posted: 01 Feb 2011 at 2:18pm |
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Why not just fab one out of steel? Unless there is some interference problem that needs the rounded u joint shape, just go with straight pieces of steel.
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 01 Feb 2011 at 2:18pm |
I'd probably go for the iron pipe segment AND weld a U shaped steel flat bar around the repair and weld to the yoke arms for additional support.
Take your time to cut and grind for correct fit, good welds and it 'll last 'forever'.
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Coke-in-MN
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Posted: 01 Feb 2011 at 2:23pm |
May be drop forged or mailable , touch it to grinder to see what spark comes off,
red-orange spark low number / cast , yellow-white many sparks / steel
One problem you are going to have when done is those 2 holes have to match right on on center and angle if U joint goes into them as the needle bearings will not take mis-alignment . Those 2 holes were line bored at some time to each other and the spacing between is also critical.
Might be better cutting other one to match and weld on piece to use a U bolt over each cap to hold the U joint caps in place.
They make a welding rod to weld any metal to dissimalar metal but it is expensive , like $15 to $30 a pound. On your new weld looks like heat could have been higher to get bead to lay out flat as penatration may not be deep into base metal.
Edited by Coke-in-MN - 01 Feb 2011 at 2:27pm
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Denis in MI
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Location: Norvell, MI
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Posted: 01 Feb 2011 at 3:02pm |
That last weld bead you see was on the 5th or 6th pass I spot weded the edges and welded acoss the back and basically cut it in two except fo the welds and filled it all back in I had it set at about 150 amps so it should have been plenty hot. The holes just hold a shaft that hold the auger in place. When I ground on it last night I barely had any sparks come off it so I believe it is some kind of cast.
Thanks for all of the help so far I am going to try to weld a piece of pipe on tonight and see how that goes,
Denis
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1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14
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tadams(OH)
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Posted: 02 Feb 2011 at 7:57am |
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The main cause of brakage on that part is contact with a object other than the hole where the feed is going to be place.
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john(MI)
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Posted: 02 Feb 2011 at 8:30am |
I would make a U bracket, a little wider, and get a couple saddle bearings to mount the auger on the bracket. That way you get movemetn in all directions.
If that didn't work. could you just bbuild weld up on the broken end up and re-drill the hole?
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