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help gleaner E in corn |
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Alex09(WI) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 15 Mar 2012 Location: CECIL WI Points: 1728 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 04 Nov 2016 at 12:19am |
I am using my Gleaner E combine in corn for the first time in a week and needs help with all the settings. What should the Wind, clearance, sives, etc. settings be?
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wayneIA ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 17 Oct 2009 Location: Waverly, IA Points: 268 |
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I always set my chaffer and sieve by eye (if memory serves me right, I think the chaffer is 3/8"-1/2" and the sieve is 1/4"-3/8" for starters), on the air run as much as you can without blowing grain out the back. To set the cylinder, start at about 3/4" and if the cobs aren't coming out in 1 piece generally in the rear, then open the cylinder a little more until you get whole cobs. With the whole cob, unlike what the manual says to quarter the cob, you have the ability to pass the entire cob out over the straw walkers. If you break the cob like the manual says to do, then the cob pieces go through the walkers and add more load to the chaffer to clean. Cylinder speed if I remember right should be about midway on the variable for starters on low speed sprocket. Then speed the cylinder up until you start cracking corn, then slow it down a little to stop cracking.
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MACK ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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Take #1 concave off door, unless you have alot of rocks. #2 and 4 concaves,Cylinder 1/4", air near wide open,cylinder speed 400 500, chaffer 1/2 to 5/8, sieve 1/4 to 3/8. MACK
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Dmpaul89 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 06 Mar 2013 Location: Edwardsville,IL Points: 1689 |
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cob size and condition will affect things too. break a ear in half and look at the cob. my corn went through good in my F but did some poor corn with tiny cobs for a guy once and completly clogged the chaffer and sieve with cob pieces. not fun...
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Tbone95 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 12016 |
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Hahaha...there you have it! Set your cylinder to 3/4" and go up if needed, or, set it at 1/4"!
Not picking on anybody, I respect your opinions and experiences....it's just that....I love combine setting threads almost as much as Ford Chevy threads. ![]() |
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Dmpaul89 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 06 Mar 2013 Location: Edwardsville,IL Points: 1689 |
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i dont think MACK meant 1/4" cylinder thats bean settings
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Tbone95 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 12016 |
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Well, I wouldn't think so either. But, stranger things have been said in Ford Ch, er, combine setting threads! Hahaha |
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SteveM C/IL ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8521 |
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If you don't have walker screens,don't run whole cobs(3/4 clearance) or your walkers will be plugged with cobs.Don't think they made screens for E's so that's why you grind the cob and crank the air....like Mack said.
My A2 had narrow woven wire fence tied to walkers with bailing wire when I got it and that worked well.Settings should be in manual.Corn might be called maize. Edited by SteveM C/IL - 04 Nov 2016 at 10:13am |
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21483 |
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Walker screens from a K or F should fit an E.
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Alex09(WI) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 15 Mar 2012 Location: CECIL WI Points: 1728 |
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Thanks for the replys guys. I never thought to look for "maize" in the manual! I have the air wide open. clearance at 1/2". Air 3/4 open. Not sure what I have for cylinder speed. 80% of cobs are coming out the back in one piece. But I have half of the kernels are cracked or broken in the bin. How can I not crack the kernels?
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Skyhighballoon(MO) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Pilot Grove, MO Points: 3115 |
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Combine settings for corn are usually in the corn head manuals, not the regular combine manual. Mike
Edited by Skyhighballoon(MO) - 04 Nov 2016 at 8:11pm |
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1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330 1969 180 gas 1965 D17 S-IV gas 1963 D17 S-III gas 1956 WD45 gas NF PS 1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin 303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers |
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Lonn ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: Назарово,Russia Points: 29792 |
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Edited by Lonn - 05 Nov 2016 at 7:20am |
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-- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... -
Wink I am a Russian Bot |
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MACK ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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How many tooth sprocket is on cylinder drive? Did you gauge the cylinder clearance or go by gauges on side? MACK
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SteveM C/IL ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8521 |
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corn under 18,2 concave would be all you need. Keep slowing cylinder til you start leaving kernels on cob then go back up a little.
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Alex09(WI) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 15 Mar 2012 Location: CECIL WI Points: 1728 |
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My corn is 15 to 18 moisturewise. My E was set up for oats before so I
did slow the cylinder down but I don't have any tools to measure the
speed. Will a tractor tach work?
MACK- I just go by the side gauges, but the 1/2" bolt is preventing me from opening the clearance more. If I take it out I could open it more. |
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21483 |
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You must change the driven sprocket on the cylinder from oats to corn. Even tho you slowed down the variable belt drive, it will still be waaaaaay too fast for corn.
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SteveM C/IL ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8521 |
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YAHHH! oaTs are more like 1100 rpm,you should be 500ish. sprocket should be 10-12? inches
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MACK ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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Put a 35 or 44 tooth sprocket on the cylinder shaft. If cylinder is raised to the bolt, no wonder it is grinding corn. Let it down to get the corn out of cylinder. Yes, 1/4 will work on corn. Have took a lot of Gleaner to field set at 1/4. Yes it will bust the cob, but open the air and blow the cob out the back. Plus that corn bore winters in that cob and you have destroyed his winter home. MACK
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SteveM C/IL ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8521 |
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Tou-shay! MACK! Never thought about wrecking the winter home....
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Lonn ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: Назарово,Russia Points: 29792 |
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ug.......... winter
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-- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... -
Wink I am a Russian Bot |
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Tbone95 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 12016 |
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Alex09(WI) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 15 Mar 2012 Location: CECIL WI Points: 1728 |
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I have the 21 tooth sprocket. Which sprocket do I switch out with the cylinder one or do I have to buy a 35T one? Which concaves should I remove? |
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21483 |
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One change at a time!!!! slow down the %$#@ cylinder to where it should have been and see what you've got.
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MACK ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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I would run #2 & 4. Look in cab and behind cab for the 35 tooth sprocket. If you don't find it, I may have one. MACK |
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SteveM C/IL ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8521 |
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The one on the cylinder is the one you change.You will need a longer chain.If you find one at the farm supply with the right size bore,you can drill the 4 bolt holes.
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8436 |
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Just amazing! I never ran a combine. Dad always set the old 66's when doing oats, wheat, or grass seeds. We never had a combine to do shelled corn. So I listen and read and understand there is some adjustments, some art and some difference in the corn being shelled. I was watching a big green machine combine corn the other night while I was deer hunting near by. Not sure what kind of machine it was? Wasnt a galvanized machine!
Regards, Chris |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Alex09(WI) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 15 Mar 2012 Location: CECIL WI Points: 1728 |
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Well I am hopefully going to try my corn head tomorrow. No 35t sprocket. So I will have to run at 1/2 throttle to get the correct cylinder speed. I removed #1 concave, #2 is there, #3 is gone. I didn't realize that the corn header drive belt is different than the grain head, so my belt is too long. I will let you guys know how it goes.
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A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
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SteveM C/IL ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8521 |
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separator won't separate worth crap at half throttle
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MACK ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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Governor will not work at 1/2 throttle. On the E, governor only works when throttle is all the way open. MACK
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21483 |
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If you don't have a 35 or 44 tooth sprocket, leave it in the shed or quit complaining about cracked corn. If the combine isn't properly equipped it can't work right.
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