I'm changing the outer final drive seal without spliting the track and moving the truck frame. I thought I would share. Drain oil, Remove bearing cap, remove roll pin and the bearing retaining nut, remove the 2 bolts holding ths sprocket shaft retaining cap.
I used two jacks , under the draw bar, placed on a 2x12 to raise the machine untill the bearing cage poped loose from the truck frame. My porta-power was used to remove the bearing cage assembly.
The puller is attached where the (2) short bearing cap bolts were. If you do not have a puller you can use (2) of the long bolts as a jack to remove the bearing cage assembly.
The picture shows that something cut the seal boot. The points of the sprocket nut have been worn down and the boot guard is damaged.
I made a tapered plug from a piece of oak and used shims and a hammer to reform the boot guard. Then I used a strip of fiberglass cloth and polyester resin to replace the worn off metal. It would have been easier to replace the sprocket nut however the nut is installed with 2200 lb. ft. of torque and I don't have a 4 inch socket.
There was evidence that someone used a hammer and chisel behind the bearing cage. There should have been shims behind the bearing cage. These shims are set at factory assembly to position the truck frame. The truck frame pivot shaft was not positioned correctly. I was able to locate used shims to correct the problem.
At the begining when I removed the outer bearing cap I could see that the bearing was loose with no preload. I tested the bearing cage assembly without the bearing being pressed on the sprocket shaft and found that I needed to remove 0.025 thickness of shims to get the preload. When I pressed the bearing on the sprocket I verified the shim requirement did not change.
The bearing cap now has a 1/8 pipe plug that I used to pre lubricate the bearing. The machine now has a sprocket guard. If anyone has one for the other side send me a pm. I am also looking for the inner guard
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