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HD5G in Idaho

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Les Kerf View Drop Down
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Joined: 08 May 2020
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    Posted: 30 Nov 2020 at 12:43pm
Howdy all,
My Son-in-law recently purchased a 1950 HD5G with plans of doing some road work and building site prep on his homestead. It starts and runs fine, the only major issue is the front idler on the right side has bad bearings and whatever else may be damaged inside. The machine is in dire need of some counterweights, which we plan to either purchase or build. I have more pictures but will only post one until I see how I did on re-sizing.


Edited by Les Kerf - 30 Nov 2020 at 12:45pm
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Les Kerf View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Nov 2020 at 1:32pm
A few more pictures
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Les Kerf View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Nov 2020 at 1:36pm
I'm not doing real well on this picture posting, thought I had uploaded several.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Nov 2020 at 1:44pm
I thought the cylinder repair was pretty special
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Nov 2020 at 3:14pm
Check with General Gear in Boise, may be able to some good there.
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Les Kerf View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Nov 2020 at 3:37pm
Originally posted by DMiller DMiller wrote:

Check with General Gear in Boise, may be able to some good there.
 
Thanks, will keep that in mind. Winter is coming on here and this will be an outdoors project, so it may be a while before much gets done.
 
The track rails look to be about 90% or better, the pins and bushings have never been turned. The machine did a lot of nothing for many years so the chains will need some run time to loosen up. The track shoes are pretty poor shape, but they are obtainable in used form, while chains are pretty much non-existent.
 
This is definitely an HD5G by the serial number, but the rock guards are clearly marked HD6E. Not sure why that is.
 
The massive brush blade was WAY too heavy with no counterweight, thus the damage to the idler(s).
 
We have been unable to locate a master pin on either side so it looks like we will have a knockdown-dragout fight on our hands to split the track. Yippee!Tongue
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Coke-in-MN View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coke-in-MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Nov 2020 at 5:10pm
those track pads are from a dozer - and are going to give a rough and tumble track workout on a loader . 
 Without a counterweight the machine is close to useless for anything besides pushing with the bucket for as soon as you lift anything all the weight will be on front idler . 
 I have 3 of them setting out back all with bent axles and destroyed bearings from a couple of machines I parted out 
 The HD6 used all the same under carriage the HD5 did in fact full rear housing is same as HD5-  to just added another roller and links to truck frame and tracks , so the rock guards on the lower rollers which say HD6 is nothing different as they are just guards .
 That welded angle iron is a almost normal dump cylinder repair 
Looking at the cross tube in the loader frame it is a later machine than 1950 as early units did not use a round structure between frame sides but a square piece (which broke readily)  - List the serial number from on dash at right side of throttle control and or rear of machine ,





Edited by Coke-in-MN - 30 Nov 2020 at 5:15pm
Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Dec 2020 at 9:42am
Originally posted by Coke-in-MN Coke-in-MN wrote:

...
Looking at the cross tube in the loader frame it is a later machine than 1950 as early units did not use a round structure between frame sides but a square piece (which broke readily)  - List the serial number from on dash at right side of throttle control and or rear of machine ,





The serial number is HD5G 9664 which puts it around the middle of 1950 according to the chart I looked up on the internet.

The Previous Owner purchased this machine in 1980 from a well-known local gypo logger who had just had the undercarriage rebuilt, then the logger ran it in the Mt. Saint Helens volcanic ash with a faulty air cleaner, thus ruining the engine.

P.O. replaced the engine and also replaced the loader as he said it was quite loose; this is probably why the loader appears to be a newer model.

P.O. then built the massive brush blade with forks that attach to the blade; he said he never had the bucket back on. After clearing his homestead site he only started it once or twice per year; the generator does not charge the battery so he just swapped in a battery whenever he needed to start it. Fixing electrical stuff is what I do so no worries there.

Thanks for the input, we are keeping an eye out for track pads and a Power Take Off.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DonBC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Dec 2020 at 12:32pm
Coke is correct. Dozer pads on a loader is a recipe for frequent repair of final drives. A company that I worked for years ago had a small IHC loader that someone put dozer tracks on. The finals were always giving trouble until I told the mechanic to take a torch to the grousers. He cut them down to under 1/2" and there were no further problems with the finals.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coke-in-MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2020 at 9:30am
On early loader frames the lower support between loader arms seemed to destroy itself as it had right angles in bracing - the late units used a round tube and then a gusset plate formed onto round and all welded in place - 
 Also the pins bosses on top of loader towers (revivors) had their length extended to evenly apply stress to longer pin used - Other change on later machines was the 2 speed reverse 
Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2020 at 10:13am
Originally posted by Coke-in-MN Coke-in-MN wrote:

... Other change on later machines was the 2 speed reverse 


I only see one reverse on this machine; would it be obvious on the shifter or is there some other means of shifting the two-speed reverse, such as an additional lever?

The serial number indicates an early machine.
Thanks for the input Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ray54 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2020 at 11:08am
AC made 2 gear sets, I think the case is the same. A parts book would say. For ag work 5 forward 1 reverse. For loader and dozer 4 F and 2 R is normal.

From your comments on firsts owner, probably just dropped the first use transmission to come along in.

On that note it may pay to change the front top shaft bearing on transmission. When it goes out the balls from bearing drop down into the gears, take teeth and even spitting the case. Harder in the loader but just put the cover plate for the bearing on front of case. Don't need to remove the transmission. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coke-in-MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2020 at 7:54pm
the shifting gate mounted to top of shift tower is the only give away - the case is the same but the reverse idler gear is different along with the sliding gear to complete the pair . 

Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cookw1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2020 at 2:26pm
Can anyone please tell me how to add hydraulic fluid and what kind do I need
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coke-in-MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec 2020 at 12:27pm
the fill for the hydraulics is on LEFT side of top of loader tower just behind the pin boss for tilt cylinders - I small breather is fitted to that opening . 
 On the tower itself is a pipe plug (near track level) that is the fill level . in front of seat in operators area there is a hose cross tube that transfers oil to the right side tower , the right tower has the valve body mounted on it and it returns oil from pump and cylinders back to that reservoir as valve body is open center .
 Pump is rated at 32 GPM and between 1200 / 1500 PSI - the relief valve in mounted below the loader cross tube in operators station and has a small 3/4 hydraulic hose bent in a U shape to bypass excess pressure .
 Hydraulic oil type is not a real concern , 10/30 motor oil, AW 32 hydraulic oil, ATF, Universal Tractor Fluid , or any low cost (what is on special) will work . The HYDRECO pump is a gear pump and as long as oil is clean and not contaminated well work . 
Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coke-in-MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec 2020 at 12:30pm
If you are going to use it for loader work where you will be turning often I would look at welding a second bar onto track pads - at rear cleat position to allow the track to slide when turning - rebar works well and is a cheap way to add this 3/4" bar and weld on with a 7018 or 7024 rod 
Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cookw1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec 2020 at 2:37am
Thank you for the assistance, I thought that was where I put it in, but I wanted to make sure first
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coke-in-MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec 2020 at 12:55pm
How i did my tracks with rebar - been on there for many years now and so far not one has broken or came lose . I clamped bar on - tack welded one to front and one to rear of track - then welded one side - rolled track and added a second bar - kept doing that until welded bars came up on back side - then welded the opposite side or rebar . Using 7024 drag rod as filler this allowed me to weld in a FLAT position and use a larger rod size 
h rebar 

Edited by Coke-in-MN - 10 Dec 2020 at 12:59pm
Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DonBC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec 2020 at 12:19pm
I welded 1/2" rebar onto the loader pads of my H3 because I would be working on frozen ground and hills. I used short lengths, about 1/2 the width of the pads, and staggered them side to side for maximum bite.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coke-in-MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec 2020 at 8:14pm
I used the machine mostly for loading material from my pit , I had a 55 Ford  8 yard Tandem first , then replaced that truck with a White Super Mustang with a 10/12 yard box but no sub frame so it sat low and the HD5G would load over the side without having to build a ramp or dig a hole to set truck lower .  Could haul 16 ton of material in the box .
 So loading or pushing - but figure any time you do a right angle short stun it puts lot of strain on track 
 I also have 2 counter weights on rear so balance is still good with full 1 yard + of material in bucket . Must have dug 30/40 basements also with machine and used it for finish grading and backfill on septic system instillations.
Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DonBC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2020 at 12:40pm
If you have ever had the thrill of skating sideways on frozen ground on a tracked vehicle when trying to cross a hill it can sure raise the heart rate. The short sections of rebar on the pads solved the problem.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coke-in-MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2020 at 1:18pm
When I bought my machine the guy had put a bolt through the hole on every other track pad and staggered them along line - said it worked for ice - was a job getting them off as had rusted, worn . and bent - smoke wrench solved the problem .
 friend has a small Oliver dozer he used to clear his drive - well after a melt and new snow on top he was clearing a spot and was crossing the drive sideways - ended up sliding down sloped drive about 100 ft on ice below snow . All he has to say " What a ride and how ones heart races "   
Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dadsdozerhd5b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2021 at 2:17pm
Look for master link in tracks by checking at each pivot when it comes around the sprocket. You will see one that you can see into the pin. The non master pin have a boss of the marching line k that sticks inside the outer link and you cannot see the pin. Only way without finding the dimple. Sometimes they are on the inside. Love my hd5s.
HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2021 at 8:25am
Originally posted by dadsdozerhd5b dadsdozerhd5b wrote:

Look for master link in tracks by checking at each pivot when it comes around the sprocket. You will see one that you can see into the pin. The non master pin have a boss of the marching line k that sticks inside the outer link and you cannot see the pin. Only way without finding the dimple. Sometimes they are on the inside. Love my hd5s.


Thanks for the tip; it will probably be several months before we get to work on this project. A close-up photo would be oh-so very helpful Smile
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