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H3 advice needed

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StewartMD View Drop Down
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    Posted: 28 Apr 2012 at 8:54pm
First off I'd like to apologize for the length of this post.  I am currently looking at a H3 with 6 way blade that is for sale.  The engine runs fantastic, the hydraulics work great, however there are 2 problems that I need advice on.  I'm not an expert with dozers but have been studying up online, etc.  Problem 1 is the foot clutch doesn't retrack after you push it in.  The spring isn't broken on the rod, I don't see anything else wrong externally.  Any suggestions as to what could be going on with this?  If the engine clutch needs to be replaced how hard of a job is it on a dozer?  Problem 2, the left brake doesn't work.  How hard and costly is it typically to repair this if I do the labor myself?  I've found brake bands forsale online. Problem 3 is my biggest concern.  The left drive slips.  At first I thought the track was jumping the teeth on the sprocket but something is binding up inside.  After further inspection it seems that the spocket isn't parallel and is out of line.  Thus causing the teeth to hit part of the undercarriage.  What could be the cause of this?  Could a bearing be out on that side?  Again I'm not an expert but would appreciate any advice.  Lastly, how much would an H3 with power director, 6 way blade, no grill guard, with these problems be worth?  Thanks.
8030, 8010, 220, 185, 160, D-17, WD, Unstyled WC, CA, G, 20-35, Gleaner E
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blrott View Drop Down
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Joined: 28 Apr 2012
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote blrott Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Apr 2012 at 9:23pm
do you have more pictures. where are you located. any other problems. what are you asking for the dozer. thanks. bruce. 920-642-0277.
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Ages Cat View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ages Cat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Apr 2012 at 9:26pm
I own and HD3-1968 vintage and have removed and installed clutches and final drive bearings and seals. The steering clutches are removed though two openings under the seat. They can be lifted out with the brake bands as a sling. My first advise is buy a service manual if you intend to buy the tractor and do it your self. The clutches had a mod which the 5/16 through bolts were replaced with 3/8  bolts, a must do. The output shaft which the sprocket bolts to gets a special double seal  installed and looking at the  position of the sprocket, the 90W grease has probably drained away already. They are a great little tractor if everything is working. Be prepared to spend some time and money on it if you want it working correctly. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LoggerLee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Apr 2012 at 2:32pm
Yeah, probably blasted final drives, might get lucky and just need bearings, or maybe not (Dun dun DUUUNNNN!!!)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Apr 2012 at 4:47pm
I'd guess the final has a bearing problem or the casting is junk. Looks like the sprocket is gone so maybe pins and bushings also. Could very easily get expen$ive.
 I wish I had something like that right now for a month or 2 but don't need one to WORK on.
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StewartMD View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote StewartMD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Apr 2012 at 6:23am
Bruce,  If I don't purchase this machine I will be glad to send you the pics that I've taken and the sellers contact information.
 
I am going to go ahead and purchase a service manual.  It would be a cheap investment even if I end up not buying this one.  Thanks for the information about the mod in the clutches.
 
I guess my biggest concern is if more than just a bearing is bad, if the casting or shaft is shot, it could get expensive.
 
Does anyone have an idea what price a dozer in this condition is worth?
 
Thanks again for the replies.  I appreciate it.
 
 
8030, 8010, 220, 185, 160, D-17, WD, Unstyled WC, CA, G, 20-35, Gleaner E
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Coke-in-MN View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coke-in-MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Apr 2012 at 9:09am
That sprocket out of line is almost a common problem as the axle runs on two timken bearings .. My HD4 has a problem with race working loose in the case then eating into case. I might just be the outboard bearing is shot but bet on case needing work also . Cost me about $500 to have case machined to put in a new welded in steel piece machined to take the timken cup for the axle bearing . 
 If it has not been run to long the bull gear might be OK but they have a tendency to chew up bull gear and the upper drive gear that is on the clutch shaft. If those gears are gone your looking at big money.
 The pre-load on the axle bearings is set by shimming the inboard bearing on axle shaft which is a small timken bearing. 
 On my HD4 on doing work I replaced axle shafts about 4 times and found not only was the case i fixed the only one but the other side had also been machined from that bearing going bad at another time.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coke-in-MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Apr 2012 at 9:13am
Looking at you track picture the bearing is bad on that side and there is a surprise inside that case , to fix you have to remove track and sprocket , remove lower case pan , remove cup over inboard bearing , remove snap rings , pull axle through bull gear and drop assembly out though bottom of case , also remove clutch and pull the drive gear on top to check for chipped and broken teeth on it. 
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"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote StewartMD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Apr 2012 at 10:01am
Coke,  Thanks for the reply.  Sounds like to fix this it could get costly for parts.  Luckily I could do the work myself but sounds like quite a bit of time involved, especially since i've never been into a dozer before.  I'm concerned that the case might need work.  And unfortunately, it's hard to say if it has little damage or if a ton of expensive work will need to be done.
 
I ordered a service manual today, but unless I could get this thing dirt cheap, i'm beginning to think I should walk away and find another.
8030, 8010, 220, 185, 160, D-17, WD, Unstyled WC, CA, G, 20-35, Gleaner E
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coke-in-MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Apr 2012 at 11:03am
What they do is align the case on a mill, bore the old race out to a size to take a new slug of metal that has a new seal gland on one side and race bore for the timken cup to fit into . This has to be aligned with the outboard race. 
 I was thinking of trying it myself but had a truck transmission re-builder I snow plowed for give me a good price and said they had dome many on the 4 and other machines .
 In fact on my Fiat-Allis FD5 I also had to have this done as one side had been run with a bad bearing and damaging the case . Its a common problem with machines with just a 2 point bearing support.  
Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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StewartMD View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote StewartMD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Apr 2012 at 3:00pm
Sounds complicated and pricey.  I'm not sure what a shop would charge to have this done around here.  I never knew that this was a common problem on 2 point bearing machines, but it does make sense.
8030, 8010, 220, 185, 160, D-17, WD, Unstyled WC, CA, G, 20-35, Gleaner E
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