Grandfathers CA

dfwallis wrote: Very nice!   Wish mine hadn't had 70 years of poor treatment.  It's going to look a lot better, but not that good :(

Thank you!

Ted J. told me early on about "farming in a tractor." I was lucky to find a tractor that I could "farm in" parts and pieces. In the end I expect I it is ~40%/60% our family tractor and the farmed in donor!!! If it was only the family tractor, it would have required rebuilding of engine, transmission and differential which were all seized up.

Dan

Edited by CA13414 - 19 Aug 2024 at 6:31am

CA13414 wrote: dfwallis wrote: Very nice!   Wish mine hadn't had 70 years of poor treatment.  It's going to look a lot better, but not that good :( Thank you! Ted J. told me early on about "farming in a tractor." I was lucky to find a tractor that I could "farm in" parts and pieces. In the end I expect I am 50%/50% our family tractor and the farmed in donor!!! Otherwise I would not have been able to make it look like this. Dan

While driving down the road could hear a clunking. This was also notable with a slight left and right turn. I think the final drive shaft needs adjusting but wanted to ask other and see what you think.

Here is a link to a video of the noise from the final drive.

Also another of the PTO slack which I think needs a few shims.

Edited by CA13414 - 25 Aug 2024 at 9:01am

Towards the end of the day, I noticed she was running a bit off. Pulled the spark plug wires and she was not firing on cylnder #2. There was no spark and switching out the wires and plugs did not make a difference. Thus, took off the distributor cap and used a bit of emory cloth to clean up the contacts.



After that she was running smooth and even. Should probably buy some new wires, plugs, rotor and distributor cap.

Today, I noticed after about two hours of running that it was once again missing on number 2. Thus, took it apart to look. Have spark at the magneto coil but when I put it back together, nothing at the distributor cap/spark plug cables.

Thus, ordering new ones and will see what happens. Makes me think the rotor is the issue. Regardless, ordered the rotor, distributor cap, wires and new plugs.

Edited by CA13414 - 25 Aug 2024 at 6:33pm

DiyDave wrote: Re the clunk, before tearing down the final, double check the PA wheel clamps...

Thank you,

Not sure exactly what the "PA Wheel Clamp" is. I looked in the parts manual and the shop manual and didn't see it.

As well, a big thanks to Steve for the PDF shop manual. Happy to forward to others as needed.

Edited by CA13414 - 25 Aug 2024 at 6:34pm

dfwallis wrote: Power Adjust wheels have cam locks (and if present additional motion stop locks)

I am not sure, but is this something that is on a CA

Thanks!

Looking good! nice job you did. Nice to see another CA back to work.

Edited by CA13414 - 25 Aug 2024 at 8:45pm

dfwallis wrote: CA13414 wrote: dfwallis wrote: Power Adjust wheels have cam locks (and if present additional motion stop locks) I am not sure, but is this something that is on a CA Thanks! Power adjust wheels were standard on a CA (those sliding rails for adjusting the wheels in or out).  Yours appears to have them.

Now I get it. Totally agree!

If that is loose, that could be the reason and the wheel is jumping around and causing the noise.

Awesome! I will check and hope it is that simple!!

Edited by CA13414 - 25 Aug 2024 at 8:46pm

Dan,

Sugarmaker wrote: Dan,  Very nice job on putting your new CA to work! The power adjusters are a project sometimes. At least on the WD series they can be rusted tight. But it is good to get them freed up to secure the wheels to the centers. Sure looks good on the beach moving sand!  Thanks for taking us along on your project!  Regards,  Chris and Cheryl

Thank you!

When we assembled them, I did tighten them and remember that the last one did not turn as much as the prior. Thus, as mentioned, it is not centered. I will loosen the ones that are more than the other and then see if I can get them all tight and at about the same rotation.

That should center them for the most part? Correct?

Put the new plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor. It started right up and ran smooth.



However, was just thinking about a prior thread and how they lost spark after warming up and running for a while. I did try again on Saturday evening when it had cooled down a bit, and still did not have spark. Should've tired tonight before changing everything!    

We will see what happens when we work it for a bit this weekend!!

Edited by CA13414 - 29 Aug 2024 at 8:49pm

Did head out with the CA and was able to spread out the rest of the sand. Our orange friend really works awesome. Was able to pull up sand from the lake without much effort. It actually worked better on wet sand with better traction vs. the dry and loose sand I have been moving around.

Tractor worked well for about 2 hours then started missing again. Thus, I let it cool for about an hour while I shoveled some sand at the edges by hand. After that I restarted and it ran smooth again. I was back to full water temp about 10 min later, however, after about another 40- 60 min of work, it started missing again.

The magneto was hot to the touch.

I have a hard time believe this is is due to the mechanical part of the magneto. Thus, with new wires, plugs, rotor and cap, is this the magneto coil that is cutting out at high temp or the magneto condenser? Connections are tight. Maybe replace both??

Thoughts?

Dan

Edited by CA13414 - 01 Sep 2024 at 3:42pm

A shout-out to my wife Kari who has been writing while I was busy with our family CA rebuild.

While I was "Tractoring," she wrote a book!!! Thus, here is my shout-out to her.

My better half, a "Tractor-Widow!"

Edited by CA13414 - 02 Sep 2024 at 9:26am