Grandfathers CA

Touched up the rear wheels lug nuts and rims where we damaged them with the socket.

Then, once it was 60 degrees in our "outside paint shop," we mixed a bit of thinner with the paint and sprayed on the second coat. Everything is looking really good. Amazing how good the sprayer works vs. the spray can. Also painted the bolts for the fenders which are hanging from the seat mount.



Tomorrow we will mix the paint with a clear coat resin. Pending how this looks, that may be the last coat. I expect we will assemble everything on Wednesday and Thursday.

All of the paint and clear coat (i.e. acrylic hardener) we have used is from Yesterday's Tractors Co.

Edited by CA13414 - 11 Aug 2024 at 6:09am

Today we sanded all the tin again with 1500 grit paper. Then mixed 16 oz of paint with 2 oz of acrylic hardener. Then after letting the mix sit for 15 min, started painting the final coat. Again looks awesome and excited to assemble all the tin this week. Did also spray other parts with the acrylic clear coat. Gives quite a shine and looks great.

We did bring them inside after about 8 hours since we are expecting storms tonight. Thus, set the tank on the supports and placed the rest on some rags.





Will let these sit until Wednesday or Thursday before putting this together.

Edited by CA13414 - 11 Aug 2024 at 8:31pm

Dan,

Edited by Sugarmaker - 11 Aug 2024 at 8:26pm

Gauges should have an ORIFICE in them to keep the BOUNCE down... Needle movement is the pulsing of the oil from the pump.. A SNUBBER or ORIFICE/ RESTRICTOR is needed.. MOST gauges have them as part of the gauge.

1955CA wrote: Can you give us more info on the paint and gun you used? And how you mixed it. That is one thing I know nothing about, but I'd sure like to try and paint mine. Paint shops around here would be in the thousands.

This was the first time I had done any body work or painting. My brother had done quite a bit thus was our advisor.

First was to buy an auto body tool kit. Then sand from Menards for sand blasting the tin and other parts. My friends Dad has a air powered sand blaster that we used for the tin and larger parts. I did also buy an adaptor for my power washer ($100) that will sand blast the blade in the near future and then paint it black.

All the paint was from Yesterday's Tractor Co. which included spray cans of paint (orange, black and clear coat), a gallon of orange paint, a pint of black, and a pint of clear coat (i.e. acrylic hardener). Of interest, the paint at Yesterday's Tractor is from Tallmans in Lincoln, Nebraska.

Bought primer, paint thinner and sandpaper from Ace Hardware. Bought bondo from Amazon. Bought a simple spray gun from Harbor Freight. This worked quite well and is really going to be a single use gun.

Total Painting Cost: $628
Auto body repair tool kit: $31
Sand for Sandblasting: $50
Power washer sand blaster:$100
Paint: $350
Bondo: $25
Spray gun: $17
Paint Thinner: $10
Sand Paper: $45

I thinned the paint for the spray gun by adding a couple of tsp of thinner to 12 oz of paint. Just enough to give a nice spray on my test sheet metal. For the final coat, mixed in the acrylic hardener at an 8:1 ratio and then slightly thinned with the thinner. Used our portable air compressor which was set at 50 psi. 12-16 oz of paint was just right for each coat of paint.

Overall, very happy with the outcome. There are a few subtle dints which for me reflects the prime age of being a 71 year old tractor. Will send close up pictures when assembled this week.

At the end, I will have about 2-4 spray cans of each paint (orange, black and clear coat) which I plan to keep on the shelf for touch up paint. Also a bit more than half a gallon of orange and the acrylic hardener left over.

Not sure what it would have cost to have someone paint it but suspect we saved $500-$1000.


Edited by CA13414 - 12 Aug 2024 at 7:46am

Re the blade mounting.  Since the SC tongue is mighty close to the width of a cat one tph lower links, take the lower pins out, and mount the tongue to the blade with bolts.  You may have to jigger the fit by spreading or compressing the tongue, or adding some washers. the lower link pins might work for this, or get some that are threaded longer, make the lift pin the bolt that holds the tongue on...

Edited by jvin248 - 13 Aug 2024 at 4:48am

Also reinstalled the gas tank, hood, fenders and the grill.

Started with the grill which was a bit of a pain, but was able to get it installed. Then the tank and then the hood.



Did notice the tank and hood strap was not vertical after I took this picture, thus did adjust such that it was straight.




The fenders were easy since it was only 5 bolts and nuts on each. Connecting the seat shock was quick to do and this was much better than the old one which bottomed out.


Now only need to connect the sediment bowl to the gas line. Need to stop and get a brass connector to connect the bowl and line. I think this is the only thing we lost in all of this.

On Thursday will set up the 3-point blade. The upper links and side links arrived today, thus will hopefully have this all done on Saturday other that sandblasting the blade and painting it black. Will also clear coat todays touch up spots on Thursday.

In addition to finishing up the 3-point on Saturday, will put on the decals after the clear coat is dry.

On Sunday, I plan to put her to work!! Have a bunch of sand to move around and we will see what happens!!


Edited by CA13414 - 13 Aug 2024 at 10:09pm

We did have to drill out the holes for the 7/8" bolts to attach to the SC tongue. Here is a drill bit my bother had which was super sharp and worked well. We used a small drill since using the drill press was not an option. It worked well and we quickly learned to use very little pressure and let the drill do the work. Pushing to hard simply resulted in the drill becoming a wrist twister.



Then drilled a 1/4" pilot hole in the SC tongue for the side links to connect. This was easy on the drill press.


Then drilled the same hole with a 5/8" drill bit to fit the side link pins.


Edited by CA13414 - 15 Aug 2024 at 10:16pm

I did also do a bit more touch up on the bolts which hold the tin. Hope to give them a quick clear coat tomorrow such that we can do the decals on Saturday.

While I love John Deere tractors, and we have a G, 60, 70 Diesel (with that crazy little 4 cylinder gas starter) a 620, and a 820 diesel on the farm, I simply could not let the JD green side links hang from our little AC. Thus, hit them with some orange and black paint, just to sleep better. Also hit the blade with a little black, just to see how it looked! :')

Yes will still sand blast this on Saturday and paint them black!!



Edited by CA13414 - 16 Aug 2024 at 5:56am

Have looked every where and can not find the fitting to attach the gas line to the sediment bowl. Thus, for now, while I order a new line and fitting, will use flexible gas line. Connected this with a barbed fitting. Worked well and at least was able to get it running.





Edited by CA13414 - 17 Aug 2024 at 10:18pm

Dan,

Started it up and was not able to lift the blade. After a few min, realized the oil was low. Suspect this was in part due to filling the lines and cylinders and circulating since draining everthing. It was just below the "low level." Added almost another 1/2 a gallon and it worked well. Was not totally smooth and was a little jumpy. Not sure if that is normal for this hydraulic pump. Here is a link to a video which shows raising and lowering the blade.

I did have to pull up the control handle almost half way before it lifted. I will play with this a couple more times. I may just need to be patient and see if it will come up a little bit with each movement.

Here is the blade after about 30 min and it did not drift down!! When I left my bothers shop about 2 hours later was still up which was awesome.



Edited by CA13414 - 17 Aug 2024 at 10:39pm

My wife bought me a new Traction Booster gauge for my B-day. Was totally stoked to install it on the "little orange dude." Looks awesome!



Edited by CA13414 - 17 Aug 2024 at 9:08pm

CA13414 wrote: CA13414 wrote: 1955CA wrote: Hey CA, did you end up getting the proper o-ring for this? Anyone have the AGCO part number? Mine has a slight leak also. I have not.  I did go to AGCO and look around but there were hundreds of "O-rings" and I could not find anything.  Mostly because, there was nothing to guide me since they just list O-rings without measurements, sizes or description on where they fit. I was planning to see if it leaked once up and running.  Hoping the shaved O-ring from amazon is enough and doesnt leak. However, now thinking about it, I will look around again and see if I get lucky!!!!   I did just order a 110 Silicone O-Ring, 70A Durometer, Red, 3/8" ID, 9/16" OD, 3/32" Width. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMUU4Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) Will see if that works!!

A follow up on the O-ring for the hydraulic "screw C. The link above for a 3/8" ID, 9/16" OD, 3/32" width works well. Thus far after raising and lowing multiple time and holding the blade up for a few hours..... no leaking. Will check again tomorrow.



Edited by CA13414 - 17 Aug 2024 at 9:45pm