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govenor help

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firephight View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote firephight Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: govenor help
    Posted: 30 Jun 2013 at 10:23am
I put the d17 spring and plunger in my wd45 and have the stop screw all the way out but can't get over 1150 rpm I did bend the arm on the carb side a little and it increased some is there a easier way that I am just over looking?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cotncrzy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2013 at 10:27am
  These is bound to be  some linkage out of adjustment, is it pulling the arm out of the gov. housing all the way back? I am pretty sure Dr Allis has a post on here how to "correctly" set the linkage.
C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote firephight Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2013 at 11:28am
I have read that post could the pin that holds the fork to the cross shaft have broken and maybe its spun a little?
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mlpankey View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2013 at 12:10pm
with the engine off pull the throttle wide open you may need vice grips to ensure lever stays  all the way down .  Go to the crab side and ensure carb is all the way open . I usuualy remove the rod and open carb up then make the rod about halve the hole to long so i have to push back on the cross arm just a little giving some preload .  yes the cross shaft could be turning . a little spot weld will rid that 

Edited by mlpankey - 30 Jun 2013 at 12:11pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2013 at 7:29pm
I can't imagine what is wrong here. All you had to do is remove the governor front cover and replace the spring/plunger. There was no need to change anything on the carb side of the engine unless you took the governor apart. Where did you get your new spring?? and what was the P/N?...should be 70229519 from AGCO.......this should have been as easy as changing out 4 spark plugs. If the engine ran 1700 rpm before, it should run 2,000 rpm now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote firephight Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2013 at 4:50pm
Maybe the spring is weak it was a used one.I did the throttle wide. Open and made sure the carb was wide open with engine off. Started the tractor and whent to wide open and the carb only opens about half I can manualy push the vertical arm twords the carb to increase the engine speed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kip-Utah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2013 at 6:24pm
I don't think that you have a D17 spring...but even a WC spring should give you 1300-1400 rpm??
HANSEN'S OLD ORANGE IRON. Showing, Pulling, & Going!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2013 at 7:37pm
when the engine is running how does it sound? When i first got involved in pulling years ago and started trying to up the rpms . I had a engine that didn't respond to spring changes raising the rpms as it should. I would try and a pop in the exhaust would get louder and louder . Long story condensed on fix the valve springs were shot valves would start floating at 1500 rpms . Went to the comp 920 and 944 springs never had that problem again. May not be your problem but they can be other issues not letting rpms raise from gov.mods as it should is my point.  pulling carb wide open bypassing gov will let you know if its something other than a improper adjusted gov.

Edited by mlpankey - 01 Jul 2013 at 8:01pm
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firephight View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote firephight Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2013 at 9:08pm
Kip its a d17 spring saw the tractor myself
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote firephight Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2013 at 9:38pm
Guess I should also mention tha my tractor has factory power steering so the throttle linkage is a little different
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2013 at 9:40pm
Put your old spring back in and see if you can get the RPM back that you had before things went south.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote firephight Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jul 2013 at 9:22am
Dr allis I am going to try that and may take the govener assembly out and make sure the spinle that the thrust bearing rides on is not bured up or have a grove in it that when its spinning its keeping it from moving outward.I also just ordered a new 175 spring
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote firephight Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jul 2013 at 9:23am
Part #70226785
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jul 2013 at 12:17pm

I gave you the p/n to a new D17 spring (70229519) and now you spend money on a new 175 spring? ..That will get you 1800 RPM and the D17 spring will get you 2,000 RPM if everything is adjusted/assembled correctly.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote firephight Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jul 2013 at 3:49pm
How is that if the 175 spring is aready rated at 2, 000 rpm? Factory specs. Next question does the 45, d17,&175 have diffrent weight govenor weights?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote firephight Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2013 at 8:34am
Put the stock wd45 spring back in and only can get 730 rpms at full throttle its like the weights are realy pushing the fork back to idle. Has anyone lightened up a set of weights if so how much?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mattb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2013 at 8:36am
make sure the bearing is not froze up on the shaft in gov.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mattb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2013 at 8:38am
If u got an e combine carb iv seen the arm slip on the butterfly shaft too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote firephight Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2013 at 10:58pm
some pics so some could help me out
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jul 2013 at 6:23am
I want to see pictures of the carb side of the engine, with the hand throttle wide open. One pic of the governor arm behind the generator and another of the carb linkage up against the engine blcok. I see nothing wrong with any of these pics......nothing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote firephight Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jul 2013 at 11:29am
the carb side is with the throttle wide open
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote firephight Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jul 2013 at 11:34am
the last pic is at idle just wanted to show how the linkage was
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jul 2013 at 11:38am
if you pull the pins and remove the weights in you picture . get a piece of aluminum to slide on shaft to hold rocker arm spring up off shaft . cut spring to length and put pilot bearing back on shaft to work fork you will never break weights again but at the rpms your running that will never be a issue

Edited by mlpankey - 04 Jul 2013 at 11:39am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wrightk20 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jul 2013 at 6:44pm
Then what's the point in you saying anything? Just more jibber jabber. Dont clutter this post with bs please.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jul 2013 at 9:36am
Set hand throttle to wide open. Disconnect the carb link rod behind the generator. Grab the vertical governor arm and move the top of it towards the radiator. It should only move until the arm is probably straight up/down and the fork on the other side of the engine is bottomed out against the timing cover. Now, let go of the governor arm and it should spring backwards towards the carburator, and stop at some point. The governor arm is "pinned" to the fork on the other side of the engine. Whenever the arm is moved the fork should move. THERE CANNOT BE ANY LOOSENESS in this pin area and it is rare to have a problem like that.  If you can move the gov arm at all easily without stretching the gov spring, the tapered pin may be loose. Also the link rod to the carb should move back and forth very easily with no binding whatsoever when disconnected from the gov arm. I can visually see nothing wrong here. Do you have the gov arm synched to the link rod correctly?? It really shouldn't be a problem as things were just fine until you changed springs. I could fix it in five minutes if I was there.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mattb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jul 2013 at 2:37pm
do u have a adjustment bolt on top of the aluminum cover for the governor? If u do remove it and jb weld the hole shut that is for a combine governor only and wont let u put enuf tension on the spring to get the rpms u want.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote firephight Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jul 2013 at 8:14pm
Dr.allis do you think I need to bend my cross shaft I bought this tractir and never checked the rpm before so I don't know what the stock setting was
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jul 2013 at 8:50am
The first thing you need to do is cut off or severely bend the cotter pin legs on the link rod at the carb throttle shaft. That cotter pin cannot in any way interfere with the operation of the linkage. Cut off the cotter pin legs short and spread them opposite each other or bend them around the rod end so they cannot touch anything !!!!! The link rod cannot be rubbing against the engine block either. With the engine off and hand throttle wide open, disconnect the link rod from the vertical governor arm behind the generator. Now, force that link rod rearwards as far as it will go. At this point the carb is wide-open and the throttle shaft is up aginst the lever stop. While still holding the rod rearwards against the carb stop, try and connect it to the vertical governor arm WITHOUT MOVING IT FORWARD. The link rod should just slide into the arm hole without moving the arm OR the link rod forward. Bending the vertical arm might be needed to "synch" this linkage. It shouldn't be that far off, but whatever it is, it is.  I'm also questioning your tachometer as to it's accuracy. You certainly should have checked you eng max RPM's before you started changing things.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jul 2013 at 10:00am
If the governor vertical arm needs to be bent (one way or the other) to make the hole line up with the link rod, you bend the vertical arm, NOT TWIST THE SHAFT.  A-C made a tool for doing this adjustment.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2013 at 10:47pm

WAITING FOR A REPORT BACK.

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