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FREEDGUY 
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Joined: 15 Apr 2017
Location: South West Mich
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 Topic: Gleaner cornhead deck plates
Posted: 09 Aug 2018 at 7:17pm |
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We run a 430 Black head on the F2 and have NEVER done anything as far as adjusting or,heaven forbid,replace them. Would someone be willing to share any info as to adjustment/setting for a particular "ear" size and what is the criteria pertaining to completely shot?? Thanks,trying to eliminate as much "butt shelling" as possible.
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JimWenigOH
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: NC Ohio
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Posted: 09 Aug 2018 at 9:45pm |
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I found the Corn Heads Operator's Manual for the Adjustable Row corn heads to have all the information I needed when I ran my A330 for the first time 3 years ago. Plenty of them on eBay.
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GM Guy
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Posted: 10 Aug 2018 at 2:29am |
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Kroil from Kano Labs and an air hammer will get the bolts turning without using the torch.
Basically you adjust for stalk size, as narrow as possible without impeding feeding. try to have the back open slightly more than the front so nub ears and stalks can get pulled down into the rolls rather than hung up at the back of the slot.
You want the deck plates to be square, if the edge is getting rounded out it will try to pull small ears through.
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Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine.
If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help.
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Lonn
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Posted: 10 Aug 2018 at 8:17am |
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Aren't they rounded from new? 3/8" or 7/16" round rod welded to the plate.
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SteveM C/IL
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Location: Shelbyville IL
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Posted: 10 Aug 2018 at 9:04am |
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Yes Lonn.They have round stock welded to edge. I try to drive fast enough to keep the plates full of incoming.Helps move the shelled corn into head.
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FREEDGUY
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Posted: 10 Aug 2018 at 6:30pm |
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Steve,that makes sense unless there is too much "fodder" to put on the raddle ??
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GM Guy
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Posted: 12 Aug 2018 at 11:09pm |
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I guess I should re-phrase, The deck plates need to be straight front to back, they usually egg out where most of the material goes through.
Also, in case I left it vague, the bolts I referred to are the deck plate adjusting bolts.
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Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine.
If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 13 Aug 2018 at 6:17am |
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Deck plates need to be straight (not worn), yes. But, they need to be adjusted to 1/8" WIDER at the rear for best performance.
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 14 Aug 2018 at 2:23pm |
 FREEDGUY wrote:
Steve,that makes sense unless there is too much "fodder" to put on the raddle ?? |
the raddle isn't where you have trouble, it's too much trash on the walkers will walk corn right out the back.When you see kernals two rows over,it's coming from the chopper.
Edited by SteveM C/IL - 14 Aug 2018 at 2:26pm
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FREEDGUY
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Posted: 14 Aug 2018 at 6:18pm |
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Thanks
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tbran
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Posted: 15 Aug 2018 at 9:54am |
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Black corn heads had 2 versions - one had a non spiral flute just behind the auger points and the late series had spiral flutes that replaced the non spiral version. The later were 100% better. The black heads will benefit from snapping roll trimming just like the later Hugger heads. Trim back the blade next to the spiral flute down to the angle if so equipped back about 4 " . This will allow the stalk to get further back before being pulled down. This Hugger/3000 modification was in a service / performance bulleting from Gleaner.
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