| Author |
 Topic Search  Topic Options
|
Jimmy Forklift 
Bronze Level
Joined: 05 Sep 2010
Location: Alberta
Points: 6
|
 Post Options
 Thanks(0)
 Quote  Reply
 Posted: 09 Sep 2010 at 2:04pm |
NIKT;
Yes, the commutators were grooved, and when I initially removed the entire motor for service, I spun the comm's on our lathe at work and then scored the mica. The comm's are not perfect..... but it now works quite well.
One thing I noticed when the motor first went was that I was able to have power steering for about an hour or so and the machine was perfectly quiet, then it got harder to steer and gradually the PS deteriorated. Since the PS motor in this unit is so loud, I decided to put a switch in line from the ignition to the PS coil (clapper), so I can run the machine quietly for a short time if need be. Really, for my use all I need is short bursts to load and unload delivery trucks.... not using this thing in a warehouse.
I also did one other repair.... when we had the forklift elevated, I noticed that the main drive motor brushes were sitting at an angle. What happened was the bake-lite piece that holds the brush guides had broken, and the outer ring and brushes were acutally floating around.
I made a new ring out of fiberglass, machined it to the right thickness, bored the center hole, bought new brushes, and man this thing operates nice now. The bake-lite is actually not that strong, so I was surprised AC used it back in the day. Perhaps no other material was available. The fiber ring with about 12 layers of 2 oz matting (5/16" thick) and resin is so strong that it will outlive me.
Anyway, another solution available to anyone that comes across the same problem.
|
 |
|
Sponsored Links
|
|
|
Jimmy Forklift
Bronze Level
Joined: 05 Sep 2010
Location: Alberta
Points: 6
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 09 Sep 2010 at 2:08pm |
NIKT:
Yes, I lubed the coupling you refer to. My pump was made by Barnes and Co., as it is still stamped as such. The motor looks like it has been serviced or replaced... not sure. But there is a stamp on it from previous service work by a local company (I bought it used).
|
|
Jimmy Forklift
Bronze Level
Joined: 05 Sep 2010
Location: Alberta
Points: 6
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 09 Sep 2010 at 2:18pm |
Forgot to mention...
Barnes and Co. was bought out by Haldex.
|
|
NIKT
Bronze Level
Joined: 24 Jun 2010
Location: USA
Points: 15
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 09 Sep 2010 at 6:31pm |
To Jimmy Forklift,
I really like your ingenuity in fabbing up and installing a brush-box support ring. Just so you know, Warfield Electric does stock rebuild parts, including armatures, fields brush rigging and brushes, terminals, and other parts for motors in A-C and just about any forklift you can name.
The fact that your power steer motor seems to run fast (screaming at light loads) and seems to overheat may indicate that the field windings have turn-to-turn shorts and this will make the motor run at high speed. The current draw at light loads (steering wheel with no steering input) should be about 10-15 Amps. With steer wheels against the stops and at hydraulic relief pressure, current should be 35-50 Amps. When convenient, you may want to pull the motor and have a local (good) starter-generator repair shop check the armature and fields. If your budget and time permit, you might check with Warfield Electric or even send it to them for test and repair. I tout these guys because I have seen them work miracles on motors that looked like hopeless cases. Like you, though, my first choice would be to try to fix it myself.
Keep up the good fight.
NIKT
|
|
NIKT
Bronze Level
Joined: 24 Jun 2010
Location: USA
Points: 15
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 27 Sep 2010 at 3:31am |
To Jimmy Forklift,
How is your unit working so far?
To Oldfoolstools,
I finally found a copy of a complete General Electric technical manual. Do you still need SCR control info? If so, give me an email address so I can send it to you.
NIKT
|
|
oldfoolstools
Bronze Level
Joined: 26 Jul 2010
Points: 7
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 30 Sep 2010 at 3:32pm |
NIKT
Sorry about the late reply.
I have benn experiencing some computer problems. Yes, I would like a copy of the SCR manual. Email me at randall@aerospacetooling.com. Thank you so much for your help. |
|
Jimmy Forklift
Bronze Level
Joined: 05 Sep 2010
Location: Alberta
Points: 6
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 05 Oct 2010 at 5:56pm |
NIKT:
She works damn good. Gotta replace the cylinder seals at some point, but not too concerned about the minor leaks. ☺
|
|
RadarMan
Bronze Level
Joined: 08 Oct 2010
Location: Alaska
Points: 1
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 08 Oct 2010 at 4:23pm |
USAF/Allic Chalmers Model # ACE 45 EV EE has issues.
When shifted into forward or reverse, truck will not initially engage drive wheels when the pedal is depressed. After a short period of time, the wheels engage and work fine until shifted into neutral or a change of direction is applied. Then, the same thing occurs in the other direction. Of special interest is that, when in forward or reverse with the pedal depressed, activation of the lift or tilt cylinder will help to engage the drive.
I have lifted the drive wheels and tested. The drive works fine without load in both directions back and forth. There does not seem to be any hesitation with the drive wheels off the ground.
My first thoughts were the direction sensor or the drive potentiometer. After the wheels up test, I am not so sure about this.
Any comment?
|
|
Loyd
Bronze Level
Joined: 16 Apr 2011
Points: 16
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 23 Oct 2011 at 10:51am |
|
if anyone is still around.....what is the easiest way to change brushes on the main drive motor on a allis electric forklift?
|
|
Loyd
Bronze Level
Joined: 16 Apr 2011
Points: 16
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 23 Oct 2011 at 10:53am |
|
if anyone is still around.....what is the easiest way to change brushes on the main drive motor on a allis electric forklift?
|
|
NIKT
Bronze Level
Joined: 24 Jun 2010
Location: USA
Points: 15
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 24 Oct 2011 at 12:02am |
First off- disconnect the battery connector to electrically neutralize the forklift. On an Actronic (transistor control) truck turn on the key switch and press the hornbutton to discharge the control capacitors. Double check with a voltmeter across the (+) and (-) power leads to be sure there is no voltage present. On an EV-1 (SCR control) truck you must open the control compartment door and very carefully short the two threaded terminals on top of the capacitor of the control unit. You may get a strong, loud spark.
Now, open up and remove the floorboard and toe plate. You will likely have to remove the contactor panel cover and any shrouds that are below and just ahead of the driver's seat assembly. Depending on the model forklift and its size, you should now be able to see the commutator-end (the back end) of the drive motor and the screened (sometimes solid) coverbands. This is where the brushes are.
Again, depending on truck model, you should be able to reach under and remove/replace the brushes on the bottom. The brushes are typically on a 45-degree angle and are accessible. If you must raise the forklift to reach the lower brushes, do so with EXTREME care. If not properly blocked a forklift can slip loose and crush and KILL you. I have done investigations on forklift accidents, including A-Cs, and the sight is horrendous and the loss to loved ones is devastating. Good luck!
NIKT
|
|
NIKT
Bronze Level
Joined: 24 Jun 2010
Location: USA
Points: 15
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 24 Oct 2011 at 12:15am |
To Anyone: I somehow missed a message asking how to bleed the power steering lines on an A-C electric. Please resend your question and I'll try to help.
NIKT
|
|
Loyd
Bronze Level
Joined: 16 Apr 2011
Points: 16
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 24 Oct 2011 at 5:54am |
|
NIKT
Thank you for the reply. I do appreciate it very much. Also thanks for the safety tips. I was a plant manager for 11 years and fully understand the impact that needless accidents cause.
Loyd
Model # E 50S EV 36 VOLTS
|
|
Un4givn
Bronze Level
Joined: 23 Apr 2015
Location: Georgia
Points: 1
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 23 Apr 2015 at 1:01pm |
|
I have a ACE 50A and the drive contactors won't engage. It was left out in the rain and the control compartment filled with water. Does anyone have any advice on how to proceed?
|
|
CmdrDick
Bronze Level
Joined: 17 Sep 2018
Location: 34465
Points: 6
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20 Sep 2018 at 3:29pm |
Need some help with locating parts for an ACE 30A Electric forklift Serial number is DCK 502747, that looks like a late 70's vintage. I need a manual, parts book and a link to sources that MIGHT stock parts. Today I need a seal kit for a tilt cylinder, but don't know the part number. This is a great LITTLE machine and exactly what I need for my confined area.
Another question. Is the pump supposed to run whenever the key is on, even when non of the controls are activated, mine does.
|
|
VAfarmboy
Silver Level
Joined: 06 Dec 2013
Location: Virginia
Points: 468
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 26 Sep 2018 at 1:21am |
Your best bet for old manuals is probably ebay.
The seal kit for the tilt cylinder is probably pretty standard if you know the size of the cylinder. You might try Hercules Sealing Products to see if they have a kid that will fit.
Edited by VAfarmboy - 26 Sep 2018 at 1:24am
|
|
Wired
Bronze Level
Joined: 23 Oct 2018
Location: MI
Points: 3
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 23 Oct 2018 at 8:11am |
|
NIKT, need some help on Allis-Chalmers ACE 50K. Lost reverse & forward at same time. I replaced A1 contactor because it was worn out, and when I manually closed it and activated acclerator I had full speed rverse & forward. However, now looking at the diagram I have I understand A1 is a full speed bypass, which was not working on this ACE. Switch on accelerator pedal is missing metal pivot and does not close switch at WOT, so probably had some speed left that was not using. Anyway. No humming at all when pedaling in reverse or forward, eight fuses I know of are good. Am I into SCR box area?
|
|
Wired
Bronze Level
Joined: 23 Oct 2018
Location: MI
Points: 3
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 23 Oct 2018 at 8:16am |
|
NIKT, think the POT is working, but going to check today. Problem is the ACE manual I have has lots of grammatical errors, don’t really trust the ohm specs. With meter it says 0-200 ohms min, 5000-4000 ohms Max. Thinking the Max is backwards, and not sure the numbers are right.
|
|
Ray54
Orange Level Access
Joined: 22 Nov 2009
Location: Paso Robles, Ca
Points: 4340
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 23 Oct 2018 at 11:19am |
Welcome Wired
NIKT has not visited since OCT 2011, so hopefully someone else can answer you. Good that you have some knowledge on forklifts cause that seem a area that knowledge is somewhat limited here. |
|
Wired
Bronze Level
Joined: 23 Oct 2018
Location: MI
Points: 3
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 23 Oct 2018 at 1:00pm |
|
I have done some additional testing, and it is looking like SCR is bad. Anyone on here have a good wiring diagram for 1975 Allis-Chalmers ACE 50 EV? I have a pdf manual, but it has a ton of grammatical errors and really don’t trust most of the specs.
|
|
bsa101
Bronze Level
Joined: 11 Apr 2019
Location: Akron, Ohio
Points: 1
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 11 Apr 2019 at 8:45am |
|
I have an ACE50 36 volt that is in wonderful shape, but the battery is about dead ... looking to let it go. It has had VERY little use and looks great!
|
|
Jim.ME
Orange Level
Joined: 19 Nov 2016
Location: Maine
Points: 934
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 11 Apr 2019 at 10:31am |
|
If you want to sell it you might have better luck if you post it, as a new post, on the Classifieds Forum; not just on the end of this 9 year old thread.
|
|
