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AC 620 Onan-Voltage to stator? |
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macvette ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Jun 2011 Location: nekoosa, wi Points: 1656 |
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![]() Wonders what the voltage to the stator should be to start cycle of charging? Anyone know? Thanks.
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Dr.Fiero ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Oct 2013 Location: AB, Canada Points: 72 |
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I haven't worked on that particular model, but... most would use 12V to flash the field, then it could ramp all the way up to as high as 90+V in operation.
I would highly recommend checking out smokstak.com 's forum
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Current slow rides: '65 Big Ten, '79 JD 317
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macvette ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Jun 2011 Location: nekoosa, wi Points: 1656 |
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Thanks. Will check out smokstak.
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ACook ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 13 Nov 2013 Location: lincoln il Points: 9 |
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I went through this about a month ago. All of the components looked good when I ohmed them out with my DMM. When I checked the AC voltage coming from the stator it was a little low on one side at idle and hit 117 vac at full throttle. I decided to replace the stator and rectifier but keep the old regulator. After changing the components and making sure the regulator and rectifier were well grounded it still was not charging. I added a jumper wire from the battery straight to the charging system and found I had 13.6 volts DC. Make sure to check the rest of the wiring. The ignition switch has 1 terminal that goes to the charging system and was too rusty to pass any current. Sorry for the long reply.
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macvette ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Jun 2011 Location: nekoosa, wi Points: 1656 |
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Welcome to the forum! Have gotten a lot of help from here, like you just gave me.Thanks for the reply. Connections have all been checked, wiring supposedly doesn't have any opens. Where did you join the jumper wire to the charging system? This will be my next job.
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ACook ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 13 Nov 2013 Location: lincoln il Points: 9 |
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Thanks for the warm welcome. I used a 12 ga. wire with alligator clips on each end. I went straight from the pos battery terminal to the white wire that hooks the regulator and rectifier to the charging system. This wire is the output from the rectifier and the regulator uses it to decide how much to charge the battery.
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macvette ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Jun 2011 Location: nekoosa, wi Points: 1656 |
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Yep, just came in from doing that. Put an actual connector on tne white and connected to battery. No joy. Looked back at things I had tried previously, put a 12 volt headlight from white wire. Light was bright as reg headlight . Bummer. Still missing something.
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Ages Cat ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hutchinson, MN Points: 681 |
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This may be huge overkill, but we have a Case 646 with a CCKA that is not charging. Stator is open. Everyone that I have talked to says the Onan charging system was a weakness. With no more stators available from Onan, the solution is mount a compact alternator to the frame and drive it with a pulley from the flywheel.
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macvette ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Jun 2011 Location: nekoosa, wi Points: 1656 |
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Curtis: Thanks for the info. Am on simpletractors.com as well, and a member over there suggested the same thing. I think that is the direction I may be heading next spring. Have asked that member to send pix of his install and briefly describe for me. If he does send that I will ask him if it is O.K. to share on our AC website. Waiting for some info from smokstak.com as well.
Edited by macvette - 16 Nov 2013 at 9:56pm |
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Ages Cat ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hutchinson, MN Points: 681 |
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I have the alternator and am ready to work on bracketing it to the engine. When I get to the point that I have it installed, before I install the baffles, I will photograph it and post it. I have a single wire alternator and this mod will eliminate about 30% of the wiring. It will be simply a single wire to the ammeter. More to come.
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rrhead(SD) ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Canton, SD Points: 431 |
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I would be interested in that as well. Thanks, rrhead(SD)
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2 WDs,WD45,D-14,D-17,D-19D,180,7020,6080FWA,6080 2wd, 6080 2wd(cab),8050FWA,8550,4W-305,Massey 8250. Gleaner L3, R62 &R65 Agco-Allis 1616H & 1920H, AC 720, Terra-Tiger
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Steve in NJ ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11577 |
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Before you wire a 1 wire directly to the Ammeter on that machine, I would re-think that idea! If you don't use that machine all the time, everytime you get on it to use it, the Battery will be low or dead. If you want to be smart (and safe) about it, wire a compact 3 wire Alternator through the key switch. This way when the switch is off, everything is off, and there will be no parasitic draw on board the Tractor from the Alternator or anything else. Let the Ignition switch be the master switch. Another thing, if that machine develops a short somewhere while you're on it, and you have wired direct, you'll set that machine a blaze, or burn everything else up. THAT is an expensive venture to replace or repair that mess. Leave 1 wire Alternators to Automobiles...
Steve@B&B |
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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macvette ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Jun 2011 Location: nekoosa, wi Points: 1656 |
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Steve = what is the approx cost of one of the compact 3 wire alt.?
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Steve in NJ ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11577 |
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There are quite a few different mfr's and types of compact Alts out there in the Automotive and industrial world. Denso, Mitsubishi, Bosch, and Motorola to name a few. Each have there own type of mounting, so careful research needs to be done when retrofitting one of these pint size units to one of these Tractors. Most of the small compact size Alts vary in the amp department also. They range from 33- 45 amps, and go as high as 72 amps on some diesel applications. The small amp units would work quite well on a 620 or 720 when upgrading from an antiquated stator system that is getting tougher and tougher (not excluding expensive) to find parts for. I just purchased a 620. It needs its engine repaired first before I can run it and see if the stator charging system is working. If it doesn't, you can bet I'll design a retrofit kit that will upgrade the old stator system for the 620 and 720 machines if possible and be a safe, reliable, and effective kit. I already have plans to upgrade the Ignition switch in mine. Sheesh! Cheap junky Indak switches they used! Yuk!
![]() Steve@B&B Edited by Steve in NJ - 20 Nov 2013 at 9:14pm |
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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BrianC ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 16 Jun 2011 Location: New York Points: 1614 |
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I was told the magnets in the flywheel can work loose, hit the stator and ruin it.
And people are replacing the whole system with an alternator. I agree with Steve the ignition switch is cheesy. |
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Steve in NJ ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11577 |
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You heard right Brian. Had a few twin Kohler engine flywheel magnets come apart and take the stator right out along with some of the wiring. What a mess. Not cheap, not cheap!
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Ages Cat ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hutchinson, MN Points: 681 |
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The alternator is $150.00. I plan to remove the rotor magnets.
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macvette ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Jun 2011 Location: nekoosa, wi Points: 1656 |
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One magnet came loose in mine, and ripped off the stator wires, tore everything up. This spring/early summer. Pulled engine, bought a used stator and flywheel - expensive -didn't help. Hired starter/alt. mechanic to use the Al Eden checklist to troubleshoot - varied results. Bought new regulator, didn't help. Bought new rectifier - didn't help. Had already checked ign. with a loose 12 volt headlight bulb to reg/rectifier assy to make sure was getting 12 v. all the way thru when switch was on. Bulb was bright. Total outcome= VERY EXPENSIVE, and still not charging. Spent money I really didn't have available to spend on this problem. Will be going the mini alternator route come spring, and selling the new Onan rectifier and new Onan regulator I purchased. (freezing my fingers in this cold will not happen for fixing this issue) Expensive lesson.
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BrianC ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 16 Jun 2011 Location: New York Points: 1614 |
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Would be nice if we had some good pictures of the stator and flywheel magnets.
So the machines have some trouble spots... I hope mine stays together. |
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BrianC ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 16 Jun 2011 Location: New York Points: 1614 |
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There are some pictures on ebay of flywheels. Some don't look too pretty.
Seems like the flywheel on the Gravely version has some sort of alum retaining ring to perhaps prevent magnets from falling out. Anyone know what the stator pole to magnet gap is on the 620? So looking at a block wiring diagram of the charging system I say huh? |
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Jerry/IN ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: Central Indiana Points: 19 |
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Steve
What ignition switch do you recommend to replace the Indac switch?
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Steve in NJ ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11577 |
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To be honest with you Jerry, I didn't look at the OEM switch yet to see what would be a good replacement that will fit in the original's spot. One of my good customer's that's very familiar with these machines mentioned today, the Indak switch is special to the 620 and 720's to energize the electric clutches. Looking at the wiring diagram that was posted in another thread, doesn't look anything special to me. I have a service manual coming to get familiar with the machine and its circuitry. But as I mentioned, looking at the wiring diagram, doesn't look anything special to me. I'm sure I can come up with a nice heavier Ignition switch to do the deed, but at the present time with 620 outside under a tarp, and it being 27 degree's out, I'll stay here in the shop and keep working! I'm a real "wee-wee" when it comes to the cold. The older I get, the worst I get!
![]() Steve@B&B Edited by Steve in NJ - 24 Nov 2013 at 4:25pm |
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Jerry/IN ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: Central Indiana Points: 19 |
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Steve thanks for the reply on the Indak ignition switch.
I like the cold less and less every year myself.
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Tracy Martin TN ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gallatin,TN Points: 10571 |
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I would also be interested in the ignition switch fix and alternator fix. Both are trouble points on these tractors. Thanks Tracy
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Steve in NJ ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11577 |
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I got brave yesterday afternoon. The temp went up to 34, so I took a break from the shop and zoomed out and removed the Ignition switch from my 620. The curiosity was killin' me. After a quick fuel tank removal, I was able to assess what's goin' on behind the dash. Just as I suspected, a cheesy, junky Indak switch with a lot of green puss growing all over it. With close to 40 different Ignition switches in stock, it didn't take me to long to come up with a candidate, to do the job, with a matching plug. The thing I did notice when pulling the OEM switch out is the big dash support that runs right behind the switch! Might be a problem for the new switch. To get the new switch to fit nice, grinding a little half moon in that support might be in order. OR lowering the hole in the dash a little. The new switch has a 7/8" mounting barrel, so a little inginuity needs to be applied here. I'll have to do my homework on this one yet.... stay tuned...
Steve@B&B |
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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