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HD6G split hood

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Dozer View Drop Down
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    Posted: 15 Nov 2012 at 9:03am
My 1959 HD6G has a 2 piece hood. My parts book shows parts for s/n's higher than my HD6G 11016 but has no mention of a 2 piece hood. I wonder if this something a previous owner fabricated.

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michale34 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote michale34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Nov 2012 at 10:39am
i have never seen a hood like that  mine is one piece with the air breather made on . now we had a what dad called a little 6g like that one had a one piece hood that you pulled the air breather top off and exhaust and took the hood off  i like that hood you have .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote michale34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Nov 2012 at 10:41am
YOU know i have been around ac hd6gs and hd6 my whole life and i dont think i have ever seen 2 exactly the same
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Nov 2012 at 3:46pm
Pretty cool to work thru, you have a Buda or a Detroit HD6G?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dozer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Nov 2012 at 6:18pm
It has the HD344 with the 2nd design "V" belts that drive from the injector pump not the crankshaft. The battery case is different from my other HD6G. This one has the HD6 emblum made with stainless steel and stainless steel grab bars. I was wondering if this machine was made for a special event or show.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jay Tyrrell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov 2012 at 9:19pm
Wish I had a split hood.
My HD6g has the same style self-leveling pivot arms (for lack of a better term). They pivot on main lift arms and are controlled by the crowd cylinders and on top hold the arms that operate bucket rotate.
Point:
My arms are very floppy and the pivot on the main boom is wore out. I have flipped the three bolt plates over and added some shims. Didn't do much.
Looks like some serious machining to tighten this up again.
Any other ideas?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dozer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Nov 2012 at 10:02am
Jay
There is a removable bushing in the boom. I was unable to remove it so I worked to build up the pin. It is a job for a machine shop. I welded the pin to replace the metal that was worn off. I used a left hand boreing bar on my milling machine to resurface the outside diameter of the pin so that it fit the worn bushing. It is dificult to establish the axis of the pin for resurfacing. My method was to tap 3 places on the arm to act as leveling screws. If I were to do it again I would weld 3 pieces of metal on the arm then machine them parallel to the end of the pin. Clamp the arm on the machined surface to use the boreing bar to resurface the pin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jay Tyrrell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Nov 2012 at 8:52pm
Did remachining the pivot pin and not replacing the bushing tighten up the flop of the arm much?
The bushings are replacable, correct?
Seems like Allis had a good design here, as long as it was greesed.
My pivot arms flop so much they miss the stops when fully dumping the bucket.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dozer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Nov 2012 at 6:48am
Yes the bushings are replacable. I worked at removing them with heat and a slide hammer but they did not move. The OEM bushings are steel. Replacements would be fabricated from readily available bronze. Yes I was able to tighten up the system. If you do not fix the alignment you will bend the hydraulic cylinder rods. Years ago my cost was $600 per cylinder. HD6G's above 11093 fixed the problem.

Does anyone know if the loader from an HD7G can be made to fit on an HD6G??????
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Nov 2012 at 7:51am
By looking at a series of loaders when I purchased my 7G I do not think the loader arrangement will interchange, the basic assembly seems different even as it may have similar dimensions.   It may be the later HD6G was set up like my 7G

Edited by DMiller - 24 Nov 2012 at 8:03am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Nov 2012 at 7:57am
This is my old 7G from a head on showing the "Y" main loader boom arm.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dozer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Nov 2012 at 6:08pm
Thank you for the picture of your HD7G The loader for the HD6G's above 11093 look like that. I was unable to get a good scan from my parts book to post. The P/N of the late model boom is 650052. The loader frame is 626234. I do not have the part numbers for the HD7G parts
I also have an HD7G project that I havn't worked on in years. I realy should sell it if anyone is interested.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Nov 2012 at 8:42pm
Dozer,
 
my parts guide shows the late model frame as p/n70648862(old allis number 648862), the shovel main boom 70650052 or the same as the 6G (old allis p/n 650052), the earlier frame(first type) is p/n 70626199 so that is not an interchange.  As allis got along they added the 70 prefix to the part numbers.
 
BTW, sent you a PM on the 7G, are you anywhere near to the midwest?  I am in central Missouri.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jay Tyrrell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Nov 2012 at 10:16pm
So this must be a common problem on the old G6's.
Can the bushing be cut out? Sawzall, Two cuts, top and bottom?
Perhaps put a new bushing in with a little smaller ID and then turn the pivot pin on the arm down a small amout to fit?
 


Edited by Jay Tyrrell - 24 Nov 2012 at 10:21pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Nov 2012 at 6:45am
As a mechanic of many moons, we used to remove old steel bushings by welding beads across the bushing until it got loose, worked slick, have to use a stick welder as it draws harder than a wire unit.  For bronze or brass we used a sawzall or a hacksaw even a air chisel with a muffler splitter bit(has a single tooth at center) to cut a groove but not fully thru the old bushings to keep from damaging the housing.  For the pins, trying to maintain original dimensions keep spare parts handier..
 
The welding trick worked for old dry fit cylinder sleeves too.


Edited by DMiller - 25 Nov 2012 at 6:47am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jay Tyrrell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Nov 2012 at 6:55pm
You mean you weld beads across / threw the ID of the bushing and this shrinks it?
Did HD6G have steel bushings?
Dmiller, Nice 7G


Edited by Jay Tyrrell - 25 Nov 2012 at 6:58pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dozer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov 2012 at 7:48am
The HD6G has steel bushings on the loader frame.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov 2012 at 9:10am
Yes Jay, across the busing from side to side, we used to do this for steel bushings and steel dry fit cylinder liners like in Masseys or Mack Trucks.  Make as few beads as it takes to get them loose 2 or three is usually enough, may have to let the bushing cool a while between beads to see if it came loose.  As I had done it when the welder lost arc the bushing had pulled away from the machine and lost ground.
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