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8050 Crankshaft Pulley

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JimWenigOH View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: NC Ohio
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JimWenigOH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 8050 Crankshaft Pulley
    Posted: Yesterday at 9:38am
Replacing the crankshaft pulley today. How do you hold the engine from turning while using a puller? I used a chain wrench to get the bolt out, but think it's going to take more than that to get the pulley off.
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8070nc View Drop Down
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Joined: 21 Mar 2019
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8070nc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 9:45am
You may have to take the starter off and jam something in the ring gear
1984 80780
1957 D14
DES 300 with 25000 engine
616 tractor
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JimWenigOH View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JimWenigOH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 9:58am
Originally posted by 8070nc 8070nc wrote:

You may have to take the starter off and jam something in the ring gear

I was looking up into the bell housing hole at the starter ring gear there, but didn't think I wanted to put that much pressure on one tooth.
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SteveM C/IL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 10:29am
My 8070's have bolt on balancer. Used 2 longer bolts in mount holes held by prybar to hold when tightening. Used impact to remove. Sounds like radiator still in place? Going to be a trick to put a puller in there and WHACK it. You won't hurt ring gear tooth holding it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 hours 51 minutes ago at 3:39pm
My puller is a 5/8" or 3/4" thick plate with a 1 inch+ hole in the center that I have a 1 inch NF nut welded to the plate for a 3 inch long 1 inch NF pusher bolt.  Drill three 1/2" holes in a triangle pattern to get attached to the center of the hub. Use gr eight 7/16" bolts of the proper length. Loosen the crankshafts nose bolt with an impact wrench at least one full turn from finger tight. Place the plate with the welded 1 inch NF nut close to the head of the crankshaft bolt head and press away. Radiator can stay where it is. Fan and fan shroud and alternator must be removed out the right side.

Edited by DrAllis - 21 hours 50 minutes ago at 3:40pm
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JimWenigOH View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JimWenigOH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 hours 23 minutes ago at 6:07pm
Last fall when I noticed a wobble on the crankshaft pulley, I asked here on the Forum, what all is really involved in replacing the pulley, since the Service Manual said to disconnect the front end (mine is FWA), roll it forward, out from under tractor, drain coolant and remove radiator. I thought "Really ????".  Dr. Allis gave me the specs for a puller to do the job w/o removing front end. I ordered the new pulley from an A&I dealer. I took the specs for the puller plate and new pulley to a machine shop to have it made. 3 months later the puller was ready. When I picked it up, it had not been made to my specs, but agreed to see if it would do the job before paying for it. Today was the trial date, which led to this post. Removed the belts from pulley and put them up out of the way, removed the large pulley bolt using a chain wrench to keep engine from turning, took the large washer off and reinstalled the bolt leaving it backed out some. Attached the puller plate to the old pulley. In order to keep the engine from turning when turning the puller bolt, I ended up using a 3/4" flat bar between two of the six 7/16" bolt heads. Using a 1 1/4" wrench on the puller bolt, I was pleasantly surprised when the pulley popped loose w/o too much effort. I removed the puller plate assy. off the pulley and lifted the old pulley out. Talk about one happy guy, didn't even have to remove the radiator shroud, just the belts. What I had observed with the pulley last fall was due to the outer part of the pulley shifting forward about 3/4" from the center hub, so I dodged the bullet there. Thanks for the ideas to everyone and for the puller design from the Dr. If anyone would like to borrow/buy my puller now or in the future, let me know. Folks may want to check your pulleys to see if they have shifted over the years. I took some photos w/my phone, but haven't figured how to get them on here yet. Thought I was doing good when I could finally post them from the desk top! This is a long post, but will surely save someone else a lot of time by not doing it "By the book".
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