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Gleaner F Serial Number and Carb

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DanielW View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DanielW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Gleaner F Serial Number and Carb
    Posted: 22 hours 4 minutes ago at 12:18pm
Hi folks,

Getting sick of using my All-Crop 66 and 90. We only do a small amount of grain - only what's required for our cattle: At most 25 acres a year. The 90 is beyond worn out, and the 66 canvases are a real pain with the hay we underseed sending a lot of green material in with the grain and not travelling up the canvases well. Rightly or wrongly, last night I bought a Gleaner F with the 292 at an online auction for $390. Not sure it was a wise move. I only looked at it once briefly in the dark. It seemed ok, stone door and raddle looked good, no rusted out elevator or bin bottoms, seems to have always been stored inside. The main catch: It hasn't ran in 20 years. Which doesn't concern me too much: I have a spare 292 kicking around, and oodles of parts for every Chevy I6 of that era.

Rightly or wrongly, I'd like to drive it home. It's about 60 miles from our farm (which is about as close as I could hope for, as we're not in a farming area). Prices I've got for floating it are over 5X what I've paid for it. I'm going to head out to the auctions site this weekend to pop the carb, fuel pump, and fuel tank off. I'll bring them home, clean them up, and put kits in the carb and fuel pump. I'll then come back with them, a battery, and a pile of fluids and see what happens.

If I can get it running and it seems to be working ok (which I realize is a big 'if'), my only other concern before driving it down the road would be the main and traction drive belts. All belts looked pretty good when I did my hasty look at it, but just in case I'd like to order a set pre-emptively to have on hand. The AGCO parts website lists two sizes of belts, depending on serial number (and the serial number break for the belts is later than the serial number break when they switched from the Buda to the GM engine, so I can't go by that). I asked a guy at the site to see if he could see any markings on the belts, but he couldn't find any. When I go there this weekend, I can do my best to measure them and match them to the appropriate belt-size accordingly. But I'd really like to know the original/stock size.

This is a long-winded way of asking: Where is the serial number located on these combines? I don't want to be searching around it for hours on the weekend trying to find the tag. I'm not planning to order the belts from AGCO (I can get quality Kevlar V-belts from work much cheaper). But if I can find the serial number, I can figure out the AGCO part number for the belts and cross-reference them to their standard V-belt size.

Second question: If anyone happens to know what carb was on these, it would also help me. I'll be able to find out this weekend, but if I knew now I'd get a carb kit on order now, just so it would arrive a few days sooner. It's definitely not the Rochester carb that GM used on the 292 in their cars/trucks. Judging by pictures of the AGCO carb kit (which is ridiculously priced and long-lead at AGCO) I'm almost certain it's a Zenith 28. But if anyone knows for sure, it would be greatly appreciated.


Edited by DanielW - 21 hours 57 minutes ago at 12:25pm
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DSeries4 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSeries4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 hours 35 minutes ago at 3:47pm
Fs never had a Buda engine.  All the gas engines were the GM 292.  Getting the fuel system cleaned up will be most important for getting it home.  Make sure the tires are good and properly inflated.  The hydraulic brakes might be a problem.  The cylinders always leak over time and soil the brake shoes, so you might have trouble stopping.

The serial number is below the engine on the left side behind the ladder.
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Ed (Ont) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ed (Ont) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 hours 25 minutes ago at 4:57pm
Those old Chevy 292's were a tough bird. Hopefully you can get it running! Too bad it's not the Rochester carb. Smile  File your points and set the gap if it's been sitting that long.

Edited by Ed (Ont) - 17 hours 23 minutes ago at 4:59pm
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wjohn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 hours 29 minutes ago at 8:53pm
Originally posted by DSeries4 DSeries4 wrote:

Fs never had a Buda engine.  All the gas engines were the GM 292.  Getting the fuel system cleaned up will be most important for getting it home.  Make sure the tires are good and properly inflated.  The hydraulic brakes might be a problem.  The cylinders always leak over time and soil the brake shoes, so you might have trouble stopping.

The serial number is below the engine on the left side behind the ladder.

They did indeed use the G262 for a while in the Fs before changing to the GM engine. I have come across plenty of the Buda/AC-powered Fs.
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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wjohn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 hours 26 minutes ago at 8:56pm
Depending on how nasty the gas tank is, you might think about a boat tank. Someone on the forum recommended that to me when I was getting everything in order to drive my CII home. I pulled off the original tank and put the boat tank in place, and it worked great. Then I got the original tank cleaned up down on the ground and reinstalled before its first harvest.

I don't remember off the top of my head where the SN tag is on an F (I have mostly focused on As/Cs) but I thought it was on the LH side like the As/Cs. If not, it is at least in a fairly obvious spot on the outside of the combine.
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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SteveM C/IL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 hours 13 minutes ago at 9:09pm
Yes on the 262 gas in early F's. Ser on plate riveted to left side near rear ladder. Jack up rear wheels and spin them. See how dry they sound and if loose brgs. Not a project for the shoulder on the drive.

Edited by SteveM C/IL - 13 hours 10 minutes ago at 9:12pm
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DanielW View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DanielW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 1 hour 31 minutes ago at 8:51am
Thanks kindly folks. Went there last night and brought the carb home. It's a Zenith 28 (or rather, 228) as I guessed, and I have a kit on order. New fuel pump on the way too, because I've had enough bad experiences with diaphragms going on old mechanical fuel pumps that have sat (a new pump was only $40 on Amazon - hopefully it's not a piece of garbage). I was also thinking of just bringing a boat tank and some jerry cans to get me going in the short-term.

I have a set of the main drive belts on order, but not the traction belt. The traction belt is not a standard V-belt (it has the width of an a E-belt, but the height and cog profile of a DX). I'm hoping the existing one will at least last me until I get home, so I can do some more evaluation of the whole thing before I spend almost as much on the Agco-specific belt as I did on the whole combine.

My other concern is the clutch: After sitting for 20 years, I suspect there's at least some chance it's stuck/frozen. I'm thinking (/hoping) I can access the cover (circled in pic below), to get in there with a pry bar and make sure the friction disc can break free of the flywheel and pressure plate? It's tucked in the previous owner's shed pretty tightly and awkwardly: I wouldn't want to fire it up for the first time and inadvertently drive through the wall of his shed because the clutch was stuck.



Edited by DanielW - 1 hour 29 minutes ago at 8:53am
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 minutes ago at 10:00am
Clutch is the pad style. They don't stick. Start with trans in neutral and if you can shift it into gear when you depress the clutch pedal, you are good.
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