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Mitch 
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Joined: 14 Jun 2025
Location: Ellendale
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 Topic: C Overheats
Posted: 14 Jun 2025 at 9:04pm |
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I have a C that we have had in the family for as long as I can remember. It has always had an overheating issue and thought I would try to solve it :) I started with the thermostat but when I took the housing off there was nothing in there and not sure the one I purchased would even work. Thought I read somewhere that the older ones didn’t have thermostats. Mine is 41.
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wjohn
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Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
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Posted: 14 Jun 2025 at 10:33pm |
Most of the older ACs (and probably most other brands as well) did not have thermostats. You had either canvas or a metal louvered shutter in front of the radiator to block off airflow in colder weather/lighter load conditions to allow the coolant to warm up to an acceptable range.
So, you know a non-working or clogged thermostat is not your issue since you don't have one, ha. Is the radiator cap correct and in good condition? Are the fan blades angled the correct direction? Radiator fins completely clean? Shroud sheet metal on the backside of the radiator around the sides of the fan present?
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: Yesterday at 6:41am |
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How do you KNOW it is overheating?? By trusting the 60 year old temp gauge ?? or does it actually vomit coolant out the radiator cap ??
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Mitch
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Posted: Yesterday at 9:44am |
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I put a new temp gauge on, but it also comes out the overflow.
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
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Posted: Yesterday at 9:51am |
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over the years many used well water or creek water to top off the radiator... and NEVER did a flush.... Probably have a couple inches of dirt packed in around the block / liners... maybe in the radiator also... take the hoses off, connect to a garden hose and BLAST AWAY !!!
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Mitch
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Posted: 22 hours 42 minutes ago at 10:57am |
That makes sense and yes thermostat issue solved ;) So, concerning the radiator, the radiator fins are clean and not clogged, fan blades appear correct and the shroud on the backside is good. Not sure about the radiator and cap though. I don't think the radiator is original and not sure if the cap has the correct pressure.
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PaulB
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Rocky Ridge Md
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Posted: 21 hours 11 minutes ago at 12:28pm |
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Often a FORD type cap with a 3/4" reach has been put on. ALLIS CHALMERS need a 1" reach cap. Also the sediment can get packed so tight around the sleeves that flushing will not remove it. Removing the head will help to get some of it dislodged, however removing the sleeves and thoroughly cleaning the block is the only way to get the worst of the sediment out.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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wjohn
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Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
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Posted: 17 hours 29 minutes ago at 4:10pm |
If the radiator has been replaced, then you may have to sort out what the correct cap for it is to make sure that's right. Who knows what type of neck an aftermarket radiator from China or Turkey has. However... if the gauge is showing it's overheating, and it's pushing fluid out, then it probably is actually getting hot.
The other easy thing I forgot to mention is that if you keep filling the radiator up to the top, it will keep pushing fluid out as it heats up and expands every time you warm it back up. There is a normal level that the radiator will keep returning to and there's not point in tipping it off. Again, if the gauge indicates it's actually overheating, then an overfilled radiator plus expansion is probably not the reason for the coolant overflowing... But I wanted to list all of the easy to check/replace things first.
Like the other guys said there's a good chance the radiator or block are scaled up. Those are not as much fun to fix.
There's a possibility the water pump impeller is way worn down, but I don't think that's common as most of the pumps start leaking well before the impeller would ever show any damage.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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DiyDave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
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Posted: 17 hours 13 minutes ago at 4:26pm |
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A good start would be to take an IR thermometer to it after its warmed up. Look for hot spots, and then follow through...
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Mitch
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Joined: 14 Jun 2025
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Posted: 1 hour 10 minutes ago at 8:29am |
Thank you for all the good information and ideas. I will work through them.
If I just wanted to start over and replace the radiator so I know what I have, is there one that you guys prefer or recommend?
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
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Posted: 24 minutes ago at 9:15am |
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Flushing the system is a lot cheaper than a new radiator... unless you have a good reason to suspect the radiator is the problem..... the B-C tractors nomally run COLD as the radiator is plenty big for the engine..
Edited by steve(ill) - 23 minutes ago at 9:16am
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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