![]() |
This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity. | |||||
The Forum | Parts and Services | Unofficial Allis Store | Tractor Shows | Serial Numbers | History |
D17 IV |
Post Reply ![]() |
Author | |
AC720Man ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5166 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 02 Jun 2025 at 10:03pm |
My neighbor called me about an issue with his series IV D17. We are both in the middle of making hay. He went to engage the pto lever to run his Tedder and the shift lever came off in his hand. I looked at it and it just broke loose at the weld where it attaches to the shaft. Anyone have this issue before? My service manual only covers my series I. Looked in parts book, and it appears to be a spring pin that holds that shaft in place. Can I access that from the PD side cover so I can remove the shaft to weld the handle back on? I have replaced the o-rings on my PD shaft on both sides and recall seeing the pto shifter behind the PD but don’t know if I can get to the spring pin to drive it out?
|
|
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
|
|
![]() |
|
Sponsored Links | |
![]() |
|
DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21522 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Open the hole a bit and clean off all paint and oil and weld it back on the best you can Cooling it with a garden hose may save the Oring so it doesn't leak. The old D17's had a roll pin. A series 4 has a solid pin that drives out hard. This has been discussed before but I would weld it and make hay for now.
|
|
![]() |
|
Stan R ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 03 Dec 2009 Location: MA Points: 986 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Ours broke 30 years ago. My dad had a guy weld it as DrAllis describes and works to this day. 10 years ago the o-ring started leaking a bit of oil so I split it and replaced the o-ring.
|
|
![]() |
|
DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21522 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
This is a "one-shot" deal. Make sure the welder is plenty hot enough and everything is CLEAN.
|
|
![]() |
|
HudCo ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 29 Jan 2013 Location: Plymouth Utah Points: 3828 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
crank up some 3/32 5p plus cap with 3/32 7018 with a air nozzle blowing behind it, its a small weld but it has to get in
|
|
![]() |
|
AC720Man ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5166 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Thanks, had thought about that but was hoping to be able to access it without a split. I will give it a shot. Thanks everyone. It will have to be a better welder than I am.
Edited by AC720Man - 18 hours 15 minutes ago at 8:28pm |
|
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
|
|
![]() |
Post Reply ![]() |
|
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions ![]() You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |