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steve(ill) 
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Location: illinois
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 Posted: 09 Sep 2022 at 10:54pm |
Normally the transmisison is filled with 20 wt oil.. Yes you could add 5 w 30 or other ( motor or hydrauilc oil ) to top it off, nothing magic about this old tractor.... The hydraulic pump/ valve would be on the right rear corner of the differential housing, bolted to the side... might be some linkage up to the seat area to engage the pump..
Years earlier there were some B ro C tractors without hydraulics that they put 80w 90 gear lube in the case.. I never heard of that on a CA......... but you never know what the previous owner did........ If it has a PUMP, it can NOT be gear lube.
There is a pipe plug on the bottom.. You could drain out a quart and look at it real good and decide what oil / lube was used... then put it back in and add enough to fill.
Edited by steve(ill) - 09 Sep 2022 at 10:58pm
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84 prospector
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Posted: 09 Sep 2022 at 11:34pm |
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Ok that’s good to know. I have a bunch of that 5w30 I need to use up so I think I’ll top it off with that. Thanks!
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84 prospector
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Posted: 10 Sep 2022 at 6:20pm |
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I went out and bought a gallon of hytrans oil that was labeled “universal tractor fluid” and poured that in thinking it would only be a gallon. Well that didn’t bring the level up so I went and got some of the 5w30 I had and ended up having to put another gallon of that in also to bring the level up to about an inch below full. The tractor fluid seemed thinner than the oil that was already in there and the 5w30 seemed to be closer the the same viscosity
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WF owner
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Posted: 10 Sep 2022 at 6:35pm |
I wouldn't have mixed different oils.
Hydraulic /transmission fluid is a very good replacement if you are changing the oil, but I, personally, wouldn't mix (existing) gear oil and much lighter hydraulic/transmission oil and I would never use 5W30 oil except in the engine.
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TomC
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Posted: 10 Sep 2022 at 8:38pm |
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Yes you'll want to drain the mixture out of there, I use universal tractor in mine.
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84 prospector
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Posted: 10 Sep 2022 at 9:03pm |
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Ok I will drain it soon. I will need to use it briefly tomorrow and I will drain it the next day. The cheapest I can find is a bucket of Vp Ultra J20A Plus Utility Tractor Fluid. Should this be ok?
On a good note, I took it for a longer drive today and the transmission now is whisper quiet being full of oil going down the road in all gears, and the backfiring/misfiring is going away.
Edited by 84 prospector - 10 Sep 2022 at 9:14pm
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 10 Sep 2022 at 10:12pm |
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If it had gear lube in it, that is not good to mix wit hydraulic fluid..... I would agree that engine oil 5w30 has a lot of addatives that are not needed, but they will not hurt the tractor using it as transmission fluid.. I have one tractor i used 10w 30 motor oil in for the hydraulics/ trans for many years....... if you have a LOT of 5 w 30, i would not be afraid to use it... If you want to buy the UTF that is a very good choice... Im supprised you put in 2 gallons of oil... Thats about what the system holds, so you have very little if any in there to start with.
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84 prospector
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Posted: 10 Sep 2022 at 10:16pm |
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It is full now, I do not think there was gear lube in there before, the oil that was in there had the consistency of the 5w30 I put in it. Will I have any problems in I keep the stuff that I just added in in it? The previous owner took off the hydraulic lift and I can’t find any hydraulic ports anywhere so I don’t think the pump is even being used. Is there supposed to be a hydraulic lift on the back?
Edited by 84 prospector - 10 Sep 2022 at 10:29pm
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 10 Sep 2022 at 10:39pm |
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Your fine.. With no hydraulics, all your doing is lubing a dozen bearings and the gear mesh... Hydraulic oil and motor oil are BASED on the same thing.. They have different addatives for different purposes.... A simple gear box really does not care.. Just not a good idea to mix motor oil with GEAR LUBE... Your case was about empty if you added 2 gallons of oil, so i would not worry about it.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 10 Sep 2022 at 10:41pm |
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When time permits, you might want to pull the final drive oil pans, clean and refill them..
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84 prospector
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Posted: 10 Sep 2022 at 10:42pm |
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Ok sounds good. When I was driving it today I was noticing it is hard to get into gear. When the clutch all the way down it grinds into gear, sometimes it will go right in and sometimes it won’t. The clutch pedal doesn’t start getting any resistance until I push it down a third of the way. Is there a way to adjust the linkage?
Edited by 84 prospector - 10 Sep 2022 at 10:45pm
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 11 Sep 2022 at 8:12am |
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one thing that happens is the crank shaft has a hole thru it in the back toward the engine clutch.. The hole has a WICK in it and slowly lets a drop of oil get out thru the wick to lube the throw out bearing area........ Over time the oil will get on the clutch and make the plates STICKY... When you push in the clutch it may not fully disengage and continue to spin a little ............ Taking a weed sprayer and putting a few oz of laundry soap and a gallon of water.. go up thru the bottom hole and spray it EVERYWHERE inside the bell housing. I have even pulled the starter motor and sprayed EVERYTHING from the top side also.. Use the whole gallon.. Let it set for several minutes.. TAke a garden hose the then flush out from the top and the bottom.. EVERYWHERE... That might help the dragging.. You can also look up thru the bottom hole and have someone push the clutch in and look at the fingers and the clutch plate clearance and see if you see anything abnormal.
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84 prospector
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Posted: 11 Sep 2022 at 2:22pm |
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I sprayed it down the laundry soap mix and rinsed it well with a garden hose, there’s no difference, it’s actually a little worse it is now still moving even when the clutch is depressed all the way, and is very hard to get into gear. The clutch pedal doesn’t start to get resistance until it is 2/3 of the way pressed down
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 11 Sep 2022 at 3:36pm |
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Is think the rod is threaded to a coupling inside the bell housing.. Take the cotter pin off at the pedal, pull the rod out of the pedal and unscrew it ( counter clockwise 2-3 turns and reinstall.. see if that helps... You dont want to screw it too far or it might fall apart.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 11 Sep 2022 at 3:45pm |
The clutch end of the rod, #3 is screwed on so you can unscrew a couple turns..( see photo below and dumensions).. It is COMMON for the pedal to have a lot of play.. some have a spring to hold the pedal up... Also you can go up from the bottom and look at the 3 FINGER adjusting screws (#17) and make sure they are all set equal ( see adjustments below) and nothing is bent / worn.. You can also adjust them slightly to equal out..
Edited by steve(ill) - 11 Sep 2022 at 3:53pm
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 11 Sep 2022 at 3:51pm |
look up thru the bottom hole at the ROD and the 3 clutch plate bolts.
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84 prospector
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Posted: 11 Sep 2022 at 4:43pm |
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1 turn counter clockwise did it. Goes into gear perfect now
Edited by 84 prospector - 11 Sep 2022 at 4:44pm
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 11 Sep 2022 at 5:04pm |
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GREAT... about half the time the trouble is oil on the clutch, the other half of the time it is the adjustment... Now your good to go on BOTH .
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84 prospector
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Posted: 19 Sep 2022 at 10:05pm |
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I entered the tractor into my local Pioneer Day parade, and I am not sure how long I can run the tractor off the battery without the generator working. Should the battery be able to handle it running a couple hours and about 5 or 6 restarts if I fully charge it before I load it up? Or should I start digging into the generator to try and get it working?
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 19 Sep 2022 at 10:10pm |
good battery should last a few hours. Keep a set of jumper cables in the truck .. 
Really, they can be push started in a pinch.
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84 prospector
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Posted: 19 Sep 2022 at 10:12pm |
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how would It be able to keep running once I take the jumper cables off since the generator isn’t charging it?
Edited by 84 prospector - 19 Sep 2022 at 10:13pm
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 19 Sep 2022 at 10:24pm |
I had an old 62 OLDS that the generator crapped out on me half way to Michigan.. I drove it 3 hours on just the battery... Had the lights on the last hour.... It takes almost NOTHING to power the distributor ( amps wise)..
i was half joking about the jumpers... But if you leave the truck running with the jumpers on the tractor for 10 minutes before you start the tractor, you would probably have another hour of run time on the tractor..
Edited by steve(ill) - 19 Sep 2022 at 10:26pm
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84 prospector
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Posted: 19 Sep 2022 at 10:33pm |
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Ok sounds good. I will just leave it on a float charger the night before to ensure it is fully charged and limit the amount I start and stop it.
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