D12 carburetor float adjustment

So I'm putting the carburetor back together and am stuck at measuring/adjusting the float. It is as original, was very careful not to bump or bend it when disassembling and cleaning. The manual says the float should be set 1 5/32" from housing surface to bottom of float while inverted, with no gasket installed. To me it's very hard to measure with the included "ruler" but mine looks to be about 1 and 7/32 to 8/32. Eyeballing it as some posts have described, the top of the float is not level with the housing surface (again, while inverted). Am I better to just use the eyeball level, or keep trying to measure with the silly paper ruler? Does anybody know what the distance should be between the float and surface? Seems this would be much easier to measure. How important to get the measurements exactly perfect?

What I'm also worried about is how to adjust the level once I know where to set it. Tiny needle nose pliers? Where to bend exactly? How to get each pontoon perfectly aligned?

Im probably over thinking this, but I want to get it right and not have to take it apart again. Any input would be much appreciated!

Eyeball it level when held upside down. Ran fine before. Will run fine again.

One more quick question. When I screw the fuel inlet elbow back on, it ends up facing the wrong way when tight. I've read not to use Teflon tape to "build it up". Also read that forcing it that last 180 degrees beyond tight will likely damage the fitting or carb inlet threads. So how to get it sealed and pointing in the right direction? I have blue monster thread sealer and yellow Teflon tape. Will blue monster alone seal the threads even if it's not completely tight? Like coat it good, screw it in to where it's pointing rearward, and let it set up for a day?

In this case you could use a bit of teflon tape to tighten up the threads a bit. Just start the tape a bit away from leading edge of thread to make sure nothing gets in the carb. Should solve the problem.

IIRR, the choke return spring attaches to the linkage, near the front of the rod, and hooks to one of the manifold nuts.  Its a very light spring, and that close to the exhaust, subject to rusting and breakage.  IMHO, it can be run without it...

Late to the party but it seems most carbs floats are adjusted by bending tang that touches needle not bending arms....not familiar with your carb so may not apply.

After seeing that picture, I definitely didn't have a spring on mine. Guess it's not really needed?