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271, where do these go?

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WaltDevore View Drop Down
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    Posted: 13 Jul 2021 at 3:31pm
I'm slowly and with fear rebuilding my 271 engine, swapping pieces from the old block with cracked water jacket to a used block I was lucky to find on ebay fairly cheap. 

These rubber pieces are included in the gasket rebuild package, but I don't know what they are for or where they go.


My clutch disc or drive plate as the book calls it has 0.15" thickness left.  Any place around Denver that might refurbish this?



It's 14" in diameter.

After torquing down the crankshaft, there is uneven resistance in rotating it.  I put permatex engine lube in the bearing caps.  I will loosen all the bolts and torque it down again?

Is there any good first test to see if things are going well?  I imagine doing a compression test once the head is on.  I can't find any compression testers with a big enough rubber seal to fit the injector hole.  Or there any tricks for that?

Is it advisable to start the engine  with improvising before reinstalling in the tractor?  I can't afford to screw up but feel with my luck and novice skill it's inevitable.  Being hobbled with sciatica sure doesn't help.

Thanks for any smarts you can lay on me!

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Coke-in-MN View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coke-in-MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2021 at 4:46pm
Your clutch disc is not the standard unit used on a 2-71 but a later ceramic disc type . 
You will find that clutch gives no slip - in or out - but that is how that clutch is suppose to work 
 The rubber end on my compression tester fit into the copper tube injector hole fine to get a reading to find if equal or bad valve (which i had) - you just need it to be straight enough to reach bottom of tube where the spray nozzle goes into cylinder head 
  Big thing with  rebuild is to be sure liner are shimmed above block surface as that is how gasket is compressed is by liner . 
  Some of those go into blower - also as engine was used on generators it might have been for separate application .
 I have a complete 2-71 core still here from machine I scrapped , got the engine from deal I made where guy replaced the engine and then sold the machine and extra parts as a package - he said it had low oil pressure - but I have never opened up engine to find out problems - A some day project I though about was installing it into un-styled WC (one of these days project after finding the WC)

Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gemdozer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2021 at 4:59pm
The gasquet kit have all  time  some extra seals and gasquets for accessoir and for me the photo cluch is look in good condition.
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WaltDevore View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WaltDevore Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2021 at 5:20pm
Thanks for the replies.  So I'm not a fool to put the old clutch disc back in?  Sounds too lucky and easy.  I don't deserve it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JTOOL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2021 at 7:38pm
@WaltDevore; I am by no means a Detroit Diesel expert but, many years ago when first starting out wrenching I assisted some old timers that were DD guru's and if memory serves correct, remove injector, install dedicated compression test adapter, and run engine to test compression on that cylinder. Remove adapter, reinstall injector and move to next cylinder. I may be wrong and the DD guru's on here may have some "flat rate" shortcuts.
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HD6GTOM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HD6GTOM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2021 at 7:53pm
As a former DD mechanic, please make sure the injector racks are set right. Out of adjustment and the whole thing can "Run Away" with itself. Hoping you can find someone close that can double check it.
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WaltDevore View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WaltDevore Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2021 at 8:35pm
Thanks so much for that.  What should the compression reading be?  How long would it take for oil to circulate for a proper compression reading?  Would it not dumb to squirt a shot of ether to see if smoke comes out the muffler?  Is there a best place to get filters?  I have the big canister on the side of the seat.  Can one use an automotive compression tester with a rubber sealing tip?  Is there a way to tell percent of wear of the  clutch with 0.15" thickness remaining? I am told there is no need to be a full time fool when a part time fool will do.

Thanks guys!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jul 2021 at 8:00am
Where to start.....uneven resistance sounds like brg out of round or bent crank....been 40yrs but think Detroit used rubber washers in oil and water transfers in counter bores and a fire ring on liner. Don't remember a head gasket but could have been? Detroit engine manuals are very thorough and able for common man to follow. Suggest you find one. Will tell you everything you need to know from rack settings, valves,timing etc.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coke-in-MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jul 2021 at 6:45pm
the HD5 Manual has just bout every spec - even for the engine , compression again is just a number - if both cylinders are near equal it's OK - will be over 100 PSI 
 Yes a standard tester will work - with rubber tip ,  do both cylinders - no need to run engine to get reading - 
 Either ? why ? You get compression , you get injection and as long as air damper is open you get smoke if injectors are working - HV7 injectors used , be careful with injector fuel lines , they recommend replacing every time they are removed but if careful they can be reused but torque to tighten is real low (SNUG) at measurement in inch pounds 
  Lube finder filter by seat  - I believe Fram C3 (used in Chrysler product cars around 1953 ) filters for engine and fuel in canisters by engine - the other filter by exhaust is also used for some furnace oil guns and also on large centervacs  compressors used in building chillers (oil filter) is a spun or honeycomb wound filter 
Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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