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just bought an H4 (i think...)

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80cj View Drop Down
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    Posted: 11 Sep 2010 at 4:12pm
i just bought what i think is an H4, but i'm a bit confused.  the serial # on the engine (gas) says 2G-04804.  is that the serial # of the engine and not the dozer?  from the page that i saw in Norm Swinford's book, it says the serial #'s only go to 4332.  i will try to post a pic.
 
also, i just ordered a service manual (now im not sure if its the right one), but any tips or anything in particular that i should keep an eye out for?
 
thanks
shawn
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tracy Martin TN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Sep 2010 at 4:24pm
That is an H4 crawler. Serial number is up front, stamped just inside of grill. That one has the light blade on it. Check all the fluids, engine,tranny,and final drives. HTH Tracy Martin

Edited by Tracy Martin TN - 11 Sep 2010 at 4:24pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 80cj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Sep 2010 at 4:51pm

thanks for the quick reply.  i will check it out.  do you happen to know any specs like hp, weight, maybe even fluid specs?  i do know that it leaks hydraulic fluid, (that's redundant!) & previous owner said he just used non-foaming hydraulic fluid from tractor supply.  does that sound acceptible?

thanks
shawn
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OrangeKiwi(NZ) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Sep 2010 at 5:48pm
If you've got Norm Swinford's book, some of the specs you want are in there.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coke-in-MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Sep 2010 at 7:56pm
Around 50 HP , fluid 10/30 oil or Hy-tran universal, or AW Med , hyd . 15/40 in engine (Rotella) Type A / ATF  in the  converter, clutch pack fwd/rev, 85 / 120 in drive finals.
 Watch the sals on the finals as the bearings are light and any movement will eat up the gears. It is single reduction in finals and axel bull gear rides on light small gear from clutch shaft.
 When changing direction , power down , no quick shift or you will tear up clutches and gears. Use decillerator, don't run fast in reverse as it will increase track wear by X 5 or so from running fwd.
 Also the Hd4, 653 , 655 are similar machines . Fuel filter is both primary and secondary in one can, so change more often then you think you should as they get dirty fast.
 Believe the weight is around 9,000 . Dozer had smaller pump than loader on hyd. believe 17GPM where loader was 25 GPM
The engine AC 2200 is same block in gas or diesel just equiped out to either spec. Also used in frok trucks and some combines (cotton pickers)


Edited by Coke-in-MN - 11 Sep 2010 at 7:59pm
Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 80cj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Sep 2010 at 11:26pm
I don't have Swinford's book, I just saw some of the pages on amazon.

I grew up on a farm & tractors, but i am pretty new to dozers. So I don't know much about this & have a couple dumb questions. What is the decelerater? Also, what's the difference between using the levers & the pedals to turn?

Thanks
Shawn




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tracy Martin TN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Sep 2010 at 12:10am
The decelerater slows engine speed to an idle. If yours has it, it is on right hand side operated by right foot. There is a guard over it. If not there, it has a knockout in floor pan for it. The levers are to disengage clutch. The pedals are steering brakes. To turn right going forward, pull back on clutch lever(RH side) and apply rh brake. When crawler turns desired amount, release brake, and return lever to front position. Manual says not to let lever slam back to position. To turn left do the opposite of RH turn. Always use clutch before applying brake.Let off brake always before letting off clutch. HTH Tracy Martin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coke-in-MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Sep 2010 at 12:49am
Machines were all lever steer machines until the later modles when hydraulics were used to apply the steering clutch release. next era was a lever with hydraulic assist but brakes were applied by foot pressure . Next came the pedal steer where light pressure on brake caused clutch release and harder pressure applied the brake also to allow turning of machine. Sometimes only the release of one clutch is enough to guide the machine in the direction you need to go and others both clutch and brake need to be used.
 later machines have a 3rd pedal in center which when pushed disengages both clutches and applies the brakes on both sides to stop all movement.
 I believe the 653 / 655 had pedal steer.
On the HD4 / H4 with a decellerator the one foot has to be used on that and other switched from left to right brake , you feel like you run out of hands and feet fast .
Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 80cj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Sep 2010 at 11:47am
mine doesnt appear to have a decelerater.  so to slow it down, i should pull both levers, then push both brakes?  my biggest concern is that i am not gonna wear something out or brake it just by driving it. 
 
 
to vary the speed, should i use the shuttle shift (i think thats what he called it) or should should i always have that fully forward (or reverse) and use throttle to vary speed?
 
ultimately i want to use this to pull some logs that i have down.  it has a clevice mounted under the machine, but i am not sure that is the best place.  i would like to have it mounted out of the way of the tracks.  any suggestions?  (i can weld)
 
 
also, i still cant find the serial #.  part of the cross member has been cut out, so im not sure if it was there or not.
 
 


Edited by 80cj - 12 Sep 2010 at 11:48am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coke-in-MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Sep 2010 at 12:31pm
Use the throttle lever to vary speed , not the clutches, as it has a torque converter there is a lag time in power up or down . A decellerator was a option on machines and was well worth it but many did not have them.
 Numbers i believe were on left side just ahead of grill on mainframe.
Looking at that right track it looks like you have wear on it that will need work in pins and bushings, check both sides of bushing (top and bottom) to see if you can turn them.
 I had a tool carrier on the back of mine for mounting weight box and or the backhoe (AC  615 detatchable 14' hoe) which bolted onto those holes in castings. Might be a good place to mount a drawbar unit (using all 8 holes) I also had a rear plate under machine that extended back to the tool carrier which acted as rear belly pan.
 Those 2 large round holes in rear sheet metal under the tanks were used for the torque rods that attached to the tool carrier and ran up to the loader frame to spread the strain from backhoe to tractor frame.
Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote John(IN) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Sep 2010 at 4:47pm
The serial number will be on top of the bar that runs along the bottom front of the grill.  It will be centered facing up.
Learn something every day!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 80cj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Sep 2010 at 11:00pm
"The serial number will be on top of the bar that runs along the bottom front of the grill.  It will be centered facing up. "  that is the bar that is in the last pic.  it has been cut out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote John(IN) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 3:36pm
That photo looks like it's cut behind the grill.  It looked like in the first pic the bar was still there in front of the grill on the outside.
Learn something every day!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 80cj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 4:07pm
oh, on the outside.  i'll check when i get home.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 80cj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 6:49pm
no joy.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coke-in-MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 6:51pm
Should be in that flat plate in front (horizontal ) iron piece
Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 80cj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 7:19pm
you are saying it should be right here?:
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote John(IN) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 8:53pm

Yes

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coke-in-MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 9:05pm
Mine was a little more to right in picture , machine left. painted over and in and it took some scraping to find.
Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 80cj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 9:38pm
i wire wheeled it to the bare metal, no serial #.  is there any other way to tell?  so whats the biggest issue with not knowing the serial #?  i already ordered the 3000+ service manual.  what is the difference?
 
i think that the torque converter is slipping and i checked and it is low on fluid. (i think it is the dipstick by my right foot when siting on the seat).  although i could have sworn that the previous owner said that was the hydraulic fluid.  so im wondering if i should drain it and refill with new ATF.  btw, anyone know how much it holds?
 
thanks
shawn
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coke-in-MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Sep 2010 at 8:44am
It needs to be checked while running .
Also add a metal plate over the fill cap as it will be kicked loose and left open when you are using machine. I put a plate with one bolt in it there so i could swing out of way . Believe the cap is little higher than floor pan so had to bend plate a little to clear
Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 80cj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Sep 2010 at 5:07pm

can you use a universal ATF instead of Type A ATF?   im hoping to put it to work this weekend.  :)

thanks
shawn
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