7010 dual wheel install issues

The wedge threads were good when I first screwed the jack bolts in.  One was a little easier than the other but I didn't need a cheater bar.  I also lubricated them with wd45.  Once I hit that cast center with the taper, that's when it got hard because I was forcing a 12 TPI into  a 9 TPI, I guess.   I stopped because I thought I was doing damage to the 3/4 threads.  I screwed the original bolt back in just fine so I didn't damage the 3/4 threads for those bolts.  You can see by the picture that the threads are "squared" off a bit in the dark area.  I alternated between bolts 1/4 turn at a time too.

I guess I thought that the points of the jack bolts would hit something and either stop me from screwing or push the wedge out.  I didn't expect the jack bolts to screw into the cast center at all.  I almost wish I could cut those points off and then but 1/4 steel plate between wedge and cast iron center and then screw.  At least it wouldn't go into the cast center.

Not sure how I use 4 bolts unless I have to remove the keyed wedge too.  That seems even harder.  I only have two jack bolts so would have to get some more.  I didn't remove the other jack bolt, but it will take me forever to put this one back in.

It sounds like I just have to keep screwing until I break the 3/4 drive socket or the wedge comes out.  I just don't understand why it didn't bottom out.  So far, no one has confirmed heat?

I think I have gotten to the bottom of my troubles by looking at the above posted picture and doing my own measurements.  It seems my pusher bolt is simply too short.  I measured the bottom out of my hole with a screw driver and it was 4 3/4 inches.  I measured the distance from the edge of wedge to the cast iron center and it was 2 inches.  That leaves 2 3/4 inches.  I then measured the tapered part of my pusher bolt and it shows about 2 1/2 inches to the tip.  That means I am 1/4 inch short of hitting bottom.  That's why I started screwing into center cast and messed up the threads.  See my pic below.

I called Agco and they said they only sell this one model.  However, when I look at the above picture by plummer I see a full 2 3/4 inches although his point may be rounded off from use and started even longer.  Plummers bolt looks like an agco bolt and it is a full 7 inches whereas mine is 6 1/2?  As Ed said, I could grind down that next 1/4 inch or more but I screwed up the threads on the bolt.  I paid $50 per bolt from Agco but I understand they have sold for as much as $75 per bolt.  So, another farm repair failure but not entirely my fault.  I have found no one reporting on bolts being too short.  Am I the only lucky one?  Could have been worse.  I could have kept going and broke off the bolt. 

I am going to take advice and use all 4 at the same time, hopefully without heat, but maybe use heat in the end if all else fails.  I know heat is not good on cast iron.

Critter has offered me a custom set of 4 that has 3 inches of a taper so that should be good.  I have ordered a 7/8 inch - 12 tpi tap to help me clean up threads as Dr Allis suggested. 

It is going is be another week of waiting while I get the parts.  With the 3 inches of snow we had and more rain over the weekend, I can't do anything for awhile anyway.  I started on this dual project 3 months ago knowing it wasn't going to be easy.

Thanks for all of the help and the pictures.   See my bolt again.

Ryan, they did not have them in stock at Laker Implement in Rushville, IN which is the dealer I use.  I took it that the bolts came out of a larger distribution center.  They arrived next day so I think they had to be close, maybe like Indianapolis.  I do hate to see someone else get stuck with the same problem though.  I will give them a heads up.

I wanted to report back that I was successful in installing the duals over the weekend.  I purchased a set of custom made Jack Bolts from "Critter" here on the forum and they worked great.  They have a full 3 inches on the tapered part which is what you want.  So a big thanks to Critter who also convinced me to buy a 12 TPI tap.  I cleaned out all of the holes before putting the jack bolts into place.  One side came out super easy.  The other side got tight, then it went pop and then tire move inwards.  I cut a 2x6 by 3.25 inches as a stop block on the back side when I went to reinstall.  I did have to move the power adjust rim in by two holes to move the tire away from the cab and give me a full 8.25 inches to attach the hubs to the axle.  I cleaned, sanded and lubricated all parts before putting back.  AGCO dealer let me return the Jack Bolts I bought from them for a refund but not sure they filed a case report.  I made a video of the process that I will be editing and putting on my YouTube channel.  Thanks to all of those that jumped into help.  I was physically exhausted after screwing with wedge bolts, then hub bolts and then rim bolts!  I did use a front loader to help me position the rim/tire for attachment.  I wished I wasn't in such a hurry as it would have been a good time to paint everything.

Here is the final picture.