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7010 hi/low range shift problem

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MACK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov 2020 at 8:30am
With the cable tight on bracket, cab keeps you from getting bracket back up on bracket mounts. A 1/2 moon cut in bracket allows enough room to get bracket up on mounts.       MACK
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calico190xt68 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote calico190xt68 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov 2020 at 8:44am
Mack, I think I got it now.  I am sure it will be more obvious once I start to secure it.  The half moon notches must be on the front facing of the bracket then?  Or does it matter?

Dr Allis, Thanks for the advice on the smaller shift cable.  Cable was $65 but don't want to screw it up.
80 7010 w/Cab, 67 190XTD Series I w/500 Loader, AC 2000 Plow, AC 4 row Planter, AC 77G Rake, Member Indiana A-C Partners, Member TAC
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calico190xt68 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote calico190xt68 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Nov 2020 at 5:05pm
I just got back at this problem.  Man that u-bolt is really tough to get a wrench on.  I pulled the cable out from the console through to the back and removed the two bolts on the anchor plate.  I moved it forward as much as I could which wasn't a lot.  I just can't get a wrench on it to loosen the u-bolt nuts attached to that bracket.  It is too small for a socket.  I am going to try again tomorrow.   Nothing like laying on the cab floor with the clutch pedal in your back.
80 7010 w/Cab, 67 190XTD Series I w/500 Loader, AC 2000 Plow, AC 4 row Planter, AC 77G Rake, Member Indiana A-C Partners, Member TAC
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Nov 2020 at 5:12pm
I remember standing at the left rear corner of the tractor and using an 18" long 3/8" drive extension and a wobble socket to do that job. 3 pt hitch down. Not easy, but can be done. I would have been 6 ft and 170 lbs.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LB0442 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Nov 2020 at 7:14pm
Here is how I did the last one I had.  Took more pictures than this but this might be what you are talking about.




This one has fairly new cab mounts on it so that might have helped.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plummerscarin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Nov 2020 at 7:25pm
Good picture LB. A lot cleaner than mine. I put a smaller wrench on the bracket to slightly twist to get it to clear the mount boss and slide forward to reach through the cab floor Hope that makes sense to you. But as Doc has said be careful not to twist too much and put a permanent kink in it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AllisFreak MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Nov 2020 at 8:30pm
I just finished my 7040 a few days ago and it is a real bitch. This may sound crazy but I unbolted the right rear corner of the cab (only 1 big nut and 1 bolt/nut) and jacked it up with a hydraulic jack and that made a big difference in making room to finagle that bracket under the cab and out through the cab floor. It worked for me anyways.
'49 A-C WD, '51 A-C WD, '63 A-C D17 Series III, 1968 A-C One-Seventy, '82 A-C 6060, '75 A-C 7040, A-C #3 sickle mower, 2 A-C 701 wagons, '78 Gleaner M2
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MACK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Nov 2020 at 8:58pm
I remember now about cutting 1/2 moon notch in mount bracket behind the two 1/2" bolts. You can pull cable inside cab and bolt cable to bracket, then slide back under cab and up on to the mounts.             MACk
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote calico190xt68 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2020 at 7:44am
Good news is that I got it!  After my last post, I went back out to stare at and try to figure something out, so I didn't see the above posts until this morning.  The big revelation is that you have to position that anchor plate against the bottom of the cab as flat as you can and then push forward.  I actually didn't figure this out on purpose.  A friend who hunts my property got done with his hunt and saw me in the barn and decided to jump in and help.  He worked the back of the tractor and I stayed in the cab.  I had actually snaked a medium sized ratchet with 1/2 inch socket into that space and loosened the nuts on the cable two clicks at a time, thinking that the anchor plate was as far forward as possible.  It was not.  As I was having my friend reposition the cable to get the socket on the nut, he pushed it into the cab by accident.  I don't know how he did it, nor does he.  When it suddenly appeared, I couldn't believe it.

I am kind of glad I didn't see the post on jacking the cab up because I probably would have done it. :-)

I want to point out to others that the u bolt has to be taken completely out.  I thought I could loosen it and pull the cable out the back, but it fits too tight in the metal slot on the cable to do that.

I cannot thank everyone enough for the posts and hope my details helps the next guy.  Sounds like others have struggled as well.  Couldn't have done this without the forum. 

Now I wonder if putting it back together will be easy?  I can't tell for sure if there is a front or back to the Bunker Hill cable.  There is a slight difference in length of the metal ends but not a lot.  I don't want to put it in backwards and have to redo it.

See my pics.




80 7010 w/Cab, 67 190XTD Series I w/500 Loader, AC 2000 Plow, AC 4 row Planter, AC 77G Rake, Member Indiana A-C Partners, Member TAC
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote calico190xt68 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2020 at 9:42am
Since I got the anchor plate in the cab without the  half moon slots, I decided to try and get it back out without them.  Admittedly, it is a better way to prevent screwing up the cable.  I replaced he original nuts with the nylon locking nuts,  I rotated it down and slid it under the cab.  It got caught between the cab and the cast iron mounting pads for the anchor plate.  That's what the half moon cuts resolve.  It seemed it only lacks about 1/4 inch.  So, I put a pry bar on the inside pulling it toward me and a pry bar underneath to push up.  It didn't take a lot of effort and the plate popped up and out on the end you can see.  can't do it with your hand though.  I then pushed up on the end I could see with a pry bar and it popped up and over the mounting pad you can't see.  I don't think I hurt anything and I didn't use a lot of pressure.  If I had, I was going to stop.  After that it was just putting the ends on, threading the other end of the cable into the cab and console and reconnecting. 

The only thing I see as slightly wrong, is that the shifter doesn't bottom out on lo setting.  It stops about 1/2 inch from bottom.  High range goes all of the way up and stays.  I am guessing I need to extend the ends of he cable in the console as a starting point.  Maybe that would give it more room to bottom out?  Could be the end in the floor too.  Did anyone else have to make adjustments like that?  This job seems to be almost done!  What a pain in the butt but still better than de-installing the cab

Hope this helps someone else when they dive into this job.  Tried to document it well.

Here are some pics of what I did.






80 7010 w/Cab, 67 190XTD Series I w/500 Loader, AC 2000 Plow, AC 4 row Planter, AC 77G Rake, Member Indiana A-C Partners, Member TAC
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AllisFreak MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2020 at 10:09am
In my case the Hi Lo cable didn't need much adjustment but the park cable gave me a little trouble. I had the ball ends screwed on to the cable until they ran out of threads and still needed a little bit more to make it shift smoothly into park. I ended up cutting off about 1/8" of the threads on the console end of the cable and re installed the ball end and that gave enough adjustment to shorten the cable and the park lever works beautifully now. I think 45 years of wear in the range lever was the cause of this problem as there was a little more slop than the factory length cable could adjust for.

Edited by AllisFreak MN - 07 Nov 2020 at 10:10am
'49 A-C WD, '51 A-C WD, '63 A-C D17 Series III, 1968 A-C One-Seventy, '82 A-C 6060, '75 A-C 7040, A-C #3 sickle mower, 2 A-C 701 wagons, '78 Gleaner M2
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote calico190xt68 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2020 at 6:00pm
Thanks allisfreakmn. Turns out that my low range works but my high range will not go into high gear. So my logic is that I need to extend the cable under can first. This should allow it to click into high. After I adjust that we will see. I only want to adjust one end at a time. This may allow it to botom out on low. Seems before I fixed it I had trouble with low. That cable was shot.
80 7010 w/Cab, 67 190XTD Series I w/500 Loader, AC 2000 Plow, AC 4 row Planter, AC 77G Rake, Member Indiana A-C Partners, Member TAC
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plummerscarin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov 2020 at 5:14am
If I understand correctly, it go into high because you are at the end of travel on the shifter? The service manual I had says to center the shift lever in the slot, the hi/lo trans lever in neutral and adjust cable to fit. I think you have cable adjustment too long?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov 2020 at 6:54am
Remember !!! Center neutral in the gate before anything else !!! Sometimes the shifting teeth aren't quite aligned keeping it from going into gear  !! Engine running helps or rock the tractor a bit which is very hard to do.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote calico190xt68 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov 2020 at 8:53am
I went back and adjusted the cable and I believe I have it fixed now.  I ended up screwing both of the ends half way between the threaded part of the cable end.  Previously I had them both screwed all the way back.  Probably should have started there to begin with.

Turns out that the shift lever when going to low gear was going back and staying, but it wasn't engaging the low gear.   The high gear was engaged  for the tractor to move but the shift lever wouldn't bottom out in high gear.  Once I extended both ends of the cable halfway on threads, the shift lever is going into high and low all the way down and up and staying put. 

I need to put it on a hill and shift into park make sure that is working.

I didn't see above posts related to centering the lever but I did that by accident.  I need to get a service manual obviously.  In my case the cable was too short because the ends were not screwed out enough.  I need to drive it around a bit more though to feel good it is finally fixed.

Now I have to tackle the 1-3,4R gear cable.  Looks like you swing the battery and disconnect underneath cab.  The console disconnection looks a little tricky but I didn't study it very long.  I am guessing you thread the cable from underneath the cab into the console.  Plummerscarin, what does service manual say about it?

I am also suspecting that my hardware in the cab related to the twist handle is a little loose or worn or both.  Seems like when shifting from 123 back to 4R it is getting in a bind.  Sometimes you have to double pump it and I am not sure it is the cable, however I will find out.

It was good getting the tractor moving again.  Thanks for all of the help and support!
80 7010 w/Cab, 67 190XTD Series I w/500 Loader, AC 2000 Plow, AC 4 row Planter, AC 77G Rake, Member Indiana A-C Partners, Member TAC
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plummerscarin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Nov 2020 at 6:09am
I had to give the service manual back but what I remember is similar to hi/lo cable. Center the shift lever and adjust. I also remember on my 7045 that there is mechanical linkage for gear selection and I cut a 1/4" off the threaded rod to gain more adjustment. I know cutting some off seems a hack job but there is slop in the bushings and levers and don't know if new replacements are available. Otherwise weld and drill new holes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Nov 2020 at 6:32am
Fore and aft movement is all thru iron linkage and ball sockets. The small cable only moves things side-to-side when in the neutral gate.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote calico190xt68 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Nov 2020 at 8:17am
Thanks guys.  I looked into the service manual.  They want $152 for one.  I am going to put that on my xmas list.

I think after replacing the shift cable, I am going to have the same problem.  The side to side movement as the handle is twisted is working just fine as I observe with the floor removed.  It is the up and down movement which is catching occasionally.  I don't think lubrication is going to help either but I may try something.  I am going to observe the linkage parts by doing some more shifting while it is still opened up to see if I can identify the culprit.  I would think used parts would have the same problem unless it was a very low hour tractor but then a low hour tractor shouldn't be in parts.  Agco surprises me on what they have sometimes though.  First, gotta figure out what is sticking. 

I am pretty confident that the hi/lo shift has improved for me with new cable and adjusted properly. 

I do wish Bunker Hill had created those cables in black rather than purple.  I have one purple cable now and the rest are black.  I supposed I could have painted it.

Once I figure out the shifting slop issue, I will start a new thread.
80 7010 w/Cab, 67 190XTD Series I w/500 Loader, AC 2000 Plow, AC 4 row Planter, AC 77G Rake, Member Indiana A-C Partners, Member TAC
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