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Allis Chalmer D19 Wiring

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Blackthorn34 View Drop Down
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Joined: 10 Jul 2020
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Blackthorn34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Allis Chalmer D19 Wiring
    Posted: 10 Jul 2020 at 7:15pm
HI guys, New to this forum and very new to mechanic work on tractors. Over the past year my D19 has had some electrical issues. It started out with the points and condenser burning out.Went through about 3 pairs before going to Blue streak. Those have worked fine but then noticed while checking with the multimeter (digital) that I couldn't get a measurement on anything while the tractor was running -the numbers would jump sporadically on the meter. Also the battery would not charge. This prompted me to think the alternator had went out and was frying the battery. I replaced the  battery and the alternator with a new Delco 10si exactly the same as the original and still can't get an accurate reading while the tractor is running and the battery still won't charge. I am about to replace all of the wiring as I think it is probably pretty messed up and there are areas where the wire shows through. Is there a wiring diagram for the D19 somewhere? Is there something I could be overlooking?  Any help would be very much appreciated.
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1852 Moore Farm View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1852 Moore Farm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jul 2020 at 7:35pm
Shoot me an email at sam.moore@moprop.com. I have a D19 manual with a wiring diagram I can scan send back to you.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSeries4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jul 2020 at 8:52pm
"I replaced the  battery and the alternator with a new Delco 10si exactly the same as the original"

No, the Delco 10si is NOT original to the tractor.  It originally had a 12 volt generator with a voltage regulator.  If the wiring is really messed up, I would recommend replacing the entire wiring harness - that can be part of your problem.


'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Lynn Marshall View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lynn Marshall Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jul 2020 at 8:58pm
The D19 should have been a generator system when new. If someone has put an alternator on it, then the wiring diagram won't match. I don't remember if they were positive or negative ground when new,but it should be negative ground now if it has an alternator.
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jul 2020 at 10:15pm
D-19 with 12v generator was originally positive ground. The ignition coil negative terminal should be going to the distributer now that it is a negative ground with an alternator. Having the coil connected incorrectly will burn up points.

Edited by DrAllis - 10 Jul 2020 at 10:16pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Blackthorn34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2020 at 12:03am
It is negative ground. The - does go to the Distributor like it is supposed to. The ignition switch has 5 terminals. 1 and 2 ignition are on with the key. The first terminal goes to the alternator and has a 194 LED wired in line. The other goes to the coil and has a ballast resistor wired in line. BOTH of those are wired together via a spade connector to the ignition switch #1 IGN terminal. It has a 6 volt coil and checks out fine with the multimeter. It has 2 BATT terminals. 1 wire comes from the ALT side of the Ammeter to the first BATT terminal the #2 terminal is then wired to the fuse that runs the lights. It has a SOL terminal that is empty. The wire coming from the Solenoid goes to the starter push button and gets its power from the left over IGN terminal on the ignition switch.  On/off with the key. Is this correct? Sorry if this is confusing
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2020 at 5:55am
Engine off. Turn on your lights. The ammeter should show a discharge. If not, the ammeter is bad and alternator cannot charge thru it.
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Jim.ME View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim.ME Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2020 at 7:40am
Try a regular incandescent 194 in the charge indicator light. The 194 LED may not use/pass enough amperage to work properly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BigGuy1000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2020 at 8:36am
You cannot trust the readings of a  digital multimeter to troubleshoot an alternator or generator system when the engine is running, since the electrical hash confuses the digital circuitry!   Use an old style moving needle meter(no longer made) still can be found on ebay and amazon(ex: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Triplett-630-PL-Volt-Ohm-Meter/184352602778?hash=item2aec457a9a:g:9~wAAOSweSxfAPkF).
I use a Simpson 260, still works correctly when engine is running, but you must be careful to use correct range settings before connection, as they can be easily damaged  by overload!



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plummerscarin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2020 at 10:06am
Anyone remember these?
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plummerscarin View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plummerscarin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2020 at 10:07am
Anyone remember these?
Itll test all stuff
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