1950 B Hydraulic Cylinders Questions

MD, I have a 1950 B as well. I think I see your problem with holding in neutral.
The plate circled should be flat. Someone has fitter rough with the lever, or something hit and bent it. That plate and the one to the right/outside of it should slide next to each other independently. Here is a picture that I took of my valve a few minutes ago.

Note that my lever and axle is missing, I’m in the middle of a major repair. But you can see that my plate is flat and not bent like yours.

Good Catch CD... the plates dont need to be perfectly flat... they just need to move EASILY with respect to each other.. you can move them by hand , full stroke to check... you might be able to bend by grabbing with a pair of pliers instead of just buying new.

[QUOTE=SC_MudDuck]Just wasn’t sure if it were tool steel or a punch/cast piece. Initially thinking of a little MC Hammer persuasion but like the finesse work of the pliers assassin. Calculated yet precise!!! Many thanks on this, I’ll you know tomorrow how it goes![/QUOTE

You need to know the ratio of the gear box.... You mark the blade position, then turn the PTO shaft one revolution and see how far the gear box output shaft ( blade) moves... If it goes around  ONCE for every revolution of the input, then it is 540 RPM.. If it goes aroudn 1.5 times per rev of the input, then it is 540 x 1.5 ... then it is 810 rpm

Edited by steve(ill) - 06 Jun 2020 at 6:58pm

Mud Duck, here's a page on the web from Rod in NH about rebuilding your hydraulic cylinders. Also has lots of other info you'll probably be interested in too if you go back to the main page. http://rodnh.byethost12.com/

Edited by chaskaduo - 07 Jun 2020 at 9:11am

On my C I bolted an extension piece to the two hole in the rock start if was about 8" long so doubling the length of the cultivator lift arms to have enough swing to lift my snow plow higher. You could use only one cylinder. With one cylinder my C would lift the front of the tractor even with my 240lb brother standing on the front cultivator bar. It did manage to lift a 8x16' building high enough to get cement blocks under it. Your cobbled 3 pt is pretty wrong. The lower plow mounts that the arms are attached to need reinforced. I wound up welding a cross bar to the front of them to keep the lugs in the lower castings. With the short arms on the rock shaft connected that far back on the lower lift arms your going to have very little vertical lift. And it looks like the arms placed that far foward your not even close to having the ends 14" Bach from the end of the PTO shaft.

DAve is saying this area with the PINS dont look too healthy..   One option is to take something like a 3 x 3 angle iron over 3 ft long and mount between the two final drives.. and then attache the lower arms to the angle... or install a factory drawbar ( or similar) , and mount the arms to it..

each final drive has two holes for mounting a drawbar or cross bar. One hole is threaded and one is not. The bracket CHASE shows above pilots into the final drive case and the "hole" is to stick a 5/8 inch bolt thru and bolt into the final.. you would have one bracket on each side... when mounted, the bracket looks something like this.

Edited by steve(ill) - 09 Jun 2020 at 12:21pm

Where can you get allis chalmers b hydraulic cyclinder rods at I need a few

That link dosent work ??