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looking for advice, way OT

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LouSWPA View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LouSWPA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: looking for advice, way OT
    Posted: 16 Aug 2019 at 6:21pm
I have an old Kubota tractor that my son built from basket cases and what have you (it has solid wheel/tires from cherry picker). Anyways, it is mostly B8200 w/hydrostatic transmission, and a little 3cyl diesel. I think it is from the early '80's.

I have been told to use only Kubota hydrstat fluid in the drive. Does any one know for sure that is factual? in case anyone doesn't know, Kubota stuff is insanely expensive......I thought JD was bad, but I think the other orange is worse.....so I was looking for something cheaper. I bought one 5 gallon bucket of the Kubota stuff, don't remember exactly, but it was well over $100 for five gal
I am still confident of this;
I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.
Wait for the Lord;
be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27
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DaveKamp View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2019 at 6:31pm
Yeah, Kubotas tend to be picky.  The 8200 is not in the BX series, but I think the hydrostat units are in same family, and that's where it matters the most.
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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LouSWPA View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LouSWPA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2019 at 8:21pm
Thanks, Dave, I appreciate it
I am still confident of this;
I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.
Wait for the Lord;
be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27
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john(MI) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john(MI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2019 at 9:33pm
Actually, that's not too bad for tranny fluid.  $5 per quart.  I think I paid around that for some good cvt fluid.
D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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SteveM C/IL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2019 at 9:38pm
Yeah not fun but probably better than a repair needed because you went "cheap".
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Scott B View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scott B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2019 at 9:53pm
Those Kubotas and parts can be pricey but they’re for sure tough.
D17 Series 1
Allis B- 1939
Allis B- 1945
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shameless dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shameless dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Aug 2019 at 12:05am
you must be talk'in with ole Joe...in competition of being "cheap"???? lol
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jaybmiller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Aug 2019 at 5:54am
I'd put the correct Kubota brand into it. It ran fine with it for years, right ? Even if you drain the HST and put in something else, it'll mix with the leftover  makng a new 'hybrid' oil. THAT may kill the HST unit,costing you big $$$$ !
Kinda like mixing oil and latex paint together....what you get ain't good !
HST's are well engineered and using the OWM oil is the best idea.
Unlike the JD riders with TuffTork  HSTs. JD uses SAE30 oil, TT said to use synoil. Well, with less than 120 hrs the HST commited suicide. $3K rider exits to scrapyard....LOTS of them, sigh.
While HSTs aren't hard to rebuild, parts can be costly , you only live so long , so bite the bullet and pay the piper, do it right....

Jay
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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farmtoybuilder View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farmtoybuilder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Aug 2019 at 8:22am
We sold Many of them and you can use any current brand transmission- hydraulic oil in them! Change the filter regularly and it has a screen (big hex head)on the large suction tube bottom side of transmission that should be cleaned once in a while!
5 different TT-10's,5 TT-18's Terra Tigers,B-10,2 B-207's,B-110,2 B-112's,HB-112,B-210,B-212,HB212,2 Scamp's & Homilite T-10. Still hunting NICE HB-112 & anything Terra Tiger & Trailers for them.   
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DaveKamp View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Aug 2019 at 4:09pm
I'd speculate that the biggest concern is down the lines of Jay's comment-     compatibility 'tween what you use... and of course, the seals and stuff.

If you're going full clean, that's one thing, but if there's already fluid in, or there's residue, then using different is not a good idea.

Good point to keep in mind, is that A hydraulic system is one thing... a hydrostatic drive is another, and a combined-function system is a third.

I don't know if the 8200 is, but the BX has wet brakes.  Now, I rarely use the brakes on my BX1800, and Dad's BX23 and whatever that BX he has now (24? 25) is same way... and they're all running in the hydrostatic fluid.  On my BX18, the hydraulic pump is aluminum housing with steel gears.  I would've THOUGHT that Kubota would've used stainless or iron endplates, but they didn't... so there's one more component likely to add to contamination... so if having all those circumstances isn't complicated enough, adding a 'unique' fluid chemistry  (particularly with a fluid that's hygroscopic) makes for some really complicated concerns.

And as an aside, I could never figure out four things Kubota did on the BX:

1) Aluminum transaxle housing.  Should'a been iron.  Hopefully your 8200 is iron
2) Diff lock.  The biggest failure point of a BX transaxle, is the diff lock- when the locking pins shear off (and they do) they send hardened splinters to the bottom of the housing, into the bearings, etc.,
3) shallow aluminum sump under the diff... not enough clearance for fraggies (see note 2)  and it gives up really easily (see note 1)
4) Unified wet brakes.

It would have made a whole lot more sense to have dry brakes, serviceable from outside the case, and have them independantly operated, make the case iron, and nix the diff lock... first, because it's pointless (it's a 4wd tractor... if you've got no traction on one rear wheel, it's because they're BOTH in the air)  and second, because it makes the assembly weaker, rather than stronger.  Independant brakes on an iron case would've solved several problems in just two swipes... and made a better tractor.

Did I mention how lame my BX's hydraulics are?  It's not just mine... it's ALL of 'em... (sigh).

But that doesn't have anything to do with the OP's question...
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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