D14 ?

First, do you have the D14 service manual and if so, have you reviewed the brake, differential, and final drive sections? Second, have you reviewed the brake, differential, and final drive sections in the parts catalog, if you have one, or on line at AGCO Parts Books? You can purchase downloads, discs, or hard copies at https://www.agcopubs.com/ if you don’t have the service manual. I have seen things on YouTube that are good info and likely as many, maybe more, that aren’t.

What parts to have on hand? Unless you are set up to rivet linings, lined shoes will be a plus. At a minimum you have a seal on the inner side of each final drive pinion and a seal in each differential carrier for the inner end of the pinion shaft. Oil leaking at inner (differential) seal could contaminate the shoes. Not as likely with a leak at the seal out near the final drive pinion. You can replace the shoes without removing the pinion shaft from the final drive housing, or the brake drum from the pinion shaft if those are ok. I would get the seals, the brake shoes, and return springs. Bearings if you think there is a problem with them.   I have some suppliers that will get parts, if they are normal warehouse stock, in ahead for me and allow returning what I don’t need. Your being able to do that depends on you and your suppliers. A lot of the AC bearing and seal part numbers can be crossed to SKF, C/R, Federal, etc.

No slight intended but time to do it is a guess; not knowing your shop, you, or how much “help” you might have with the project. I would say a day per side should be really easy, including replacing the carrier seals, but not disturbing the pinion shaft or drum. Depending on a number of things, including the length of your work day, you might get both in a day. You should check the internal diameter of the drums while you are doing it. This doesn’t include any work on drums, beyond checking them, or final drives. Someone on here may have the flat rate hours for this they will post.

Just my thoughts for what they are worth.

There used to be people with old flat rate manuals here, on this site, I thought, that could give you approximate time involved. For transmissions or engine work it was a general rule that if it was the first time for you to do that type of work you triple the time the book says. And that was with proper tools. At least that what my mechanics teacher always said....... I think....... was 25 years ago.


Edited by Lonn - 13 Dec 2018 at 7:11am

Thank you all for sharing your knowledge on this subject.  I guess I feel a little overwhelmed by the project.  I have never ventured into anything of this size before.  I was less intimidated replacing the clutch and associated parts as well as changing the front bolster to a power steering unit.  It just appears that you need to remove so many pieces and parts to get this new job accomplished it could take me and my friend a week, and he has a hoist and an electric trolley lift.

d-10 d-12 d-14 d-15 are all the same brake linings with rivets available form DJS TRACTOR PARTS
Two O-rings and two seals is all you need as for as parts are concerned
these are also the same as d-10 thru d-15
Just done this on my d-10 that is why I know this
the riveting tool is about $100 dollar unless you can borrow one
hope this helps NOT TWO HARD A JOB ABOUT 6 0N SCALE OF 1-10

Took me three years, but that's another story.

If you want / need brake or clutch parts. contact Rick Corder. He does en excellent job on all of his rebuilds.

I opened my "Allis Chalmers flat rate manual" on the D14 brakes, here's the time to reline, replace and adjust both set's of brakes. keep in mind this was back when the tractor was new.  5 hours.

Brake linings with rivets are about $20.00. Even Walmart has them.