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Clutch inspection
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Bob C IL View Drop Down
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Joined: 25 Sep 2009
Location: Paris IL
Points: 369 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bob C IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Clutch inspection
    Posted: 24 Mar 2015 at 4:00pm
I have been thinking of cuttin my frame about 8 inches in front of clutch housing to just remove hood and pull engine without splitting whole tractor. After that section comes out tie bars will hold up tractor. This is on a 7000 6500 lbs tractor. Of course cutting frame will weaken it but with same thickness plate and 4 1/2 bolts do you thinks it's a good idea? All hoses and wires are long enough to slide engine forward without much effort.
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 19508 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2015 at 4:29pm
I guess when I put a clutch in something, even a Puller, I don't figure on taking it apart again for quite a long while. Why would I want to risk my safety with a compromised frame ????
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Bob C IL View Drop Down
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Joined: 25 Sep 2009
Location: Paris IL
Points: 369 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bob C IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2015 at 4:43pm
I pull it out every year so you just answers my question. That compromised frame sealed the deal!!! THANKS DOC
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 19508 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2015 at 4:53pm
Maybe consider trimming your backplate sides and holding the engine in the bellhousing with four 1/2" bolts. Leave side frames attached. Slide the engine forward (in-between the side frames)after removing the timing cover mtg bolts.
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Bob C IL View Drop Down
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Joined: 25 Sep 2009
Location: Paris IL
Points: 369 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bob C IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2015 at 5:12pm
I've thought of that to. It's not bad to split but it sets nose down like a hot rod and lineup can be a bear sometimes.
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 19508 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2015 at 6:43pm
Have your front wheels on some railroad ties (or something similar) to level it out when you split it.
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rowcropmafia View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 208 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rowcropmafia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2015 at 7:19pm
Not that i am in support of cutting the frame rails, but your factory frame rails are but much heavier than most tube or sheet metal frames ran in light classes. But then again if you cut the top out of the channel it would lose a lot of strength
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Bob C IL View Drop Down
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Joined: 25 Sep 2009
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Points: 369 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bob C IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2015 at 7:33pm
Ben mine are flat no channel. 3/4 x 6. Is a 180 channels?
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rowcropmafia View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
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Points: 208 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rowcropmafia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2015 at 10:29pm
No mine are flat. I don't have the factory rails in mine. I just have a piece of 5/16X6" steel for frame rails. I would rather have a sheet metal or tube chassis because im not sure it's really heavy enough for all the front weight i carry but it hasn't failed me yet either
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rowcropmafia View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
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Points: 208 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rowcropmafia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2015 at 10:31pm
Now that i think about it maybe they are 3/8". I'll check tomorrow
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