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D14 starter for a CA?

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J&J View Drop Down
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Joined: 24 Apr 2021
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J&J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: D14 starter for a CA?
    Posted: 14 hours 37 minutes ago at 10:19pm
Is a 12v D 14 starter mechanically compatible with a CA. I'd like to change it out for the purpose of having a 12v starter and the use of a solenoid. Thanks
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 hours 54 minutes ago at 11:02pm
i think the 6v and 12v systems use a different flywheel with a different number of teeth.
12v starter has 9 teeth...... 6v starter has 14 teeth....

why not just have your 6v starter changed to a solenoid stud... and use 12v on it ?


Edited by steve(ill) - 13 hours 47 minutes ago at 11:09pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 5 hours 42 minutes ago at 7:14am
For the B,C & CA tractor you MUST use a 14t  starter drive.
  If you are willing to change the starter drive and re-drill the starter mounting hole in the nose cone to properly  position the starter drive to the flywheel, it could be made to work.
  I would just take the CA starter to a competent rebuilder and have it made into a 12 volt unit with a stud instead of a button.
 You could just use the CA starter as is with 12 volts, however you will probably ruin the ring gear in time. 
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary Burnett Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 5 hours 29 minutes ago at 7:27am
As Paul said you might have trouble with the 6V starter using 12V on it then again i HAVE A CA with a 6V starter that I know has been cranked by a 12V battery for at least 40 years.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J&J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 4 hours 7 minutes ago at 8:49am
Is adding a stud to the CA starter pretty straightforward or is it more in-depth that I would need to take it to a starter repair shop? 

Edited by J&J - 4 hours 5 minutes ago at 8:51am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 3 hours 19 minutes ago at 9:37am
installing the stud is not for beginners.. but if you have a BIG SOLDER IRON and you are familiar with solder techniques, it can be done at home.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2 hours 10 minutes ago at 10:46am
I have gone through various gyrations with Model C starters.

One Model C which I owned 20+ years ago broke 3 starter drives and chewed up the ring gear on the flywheel using 12 Volts; I finally converted it to a 6 Volt alternator system before selling it.

My current Model C is running 12 Volts on the 6 Volt starter, it doesn't slam the drive in as hard as the previous one but it is still quite brisk. This starter is actually from a WD, I swapped the pinion out for the appropriate 14 tooth unit and rotated the nose cone by re-drilling the mounting holes. I also soldered a brass bolt onto the contact to convert it to a solenoid (Ford relay) system. So far so good.

Your mileage may vary Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J&J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 1 hour 13 minutes ago at 11:43am
Is there any reason I can't just drill a hole through the original contact and insert a bolt up through the hole? Would there be enough room on the contact to do so? There would be no High heat soldering that way. Just throwing that out there?? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 55 minutes ago at 12:01pm
the original contact sticks thru a HOLE in the case with the wire solder on the inside and contact on the outside.. If you drill a hole thru the contact, you probably will not have  much support left in the remaining piece... and your going to drill into the soldered wire on the inside..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 minutes ago at 12:30pm
We switched over to 12v on our CA probably 5 or 6 years ago. Original 6v starter works just fine and have not had any issues to this point.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 minutes ago at 12:42pm
i use the 6v starter on a 12v battery on 4-5 different tractors... I pulled off the PUSH ROD and cut a little triangle plate out of 1/8 inch thick.. i PUSH the button down, then set the triangle plate in the groove and install the pivot pin.. That keeps the switch engaged 100% of the time.. If  you cant get it compressed all the way, i install it plate, then push a sheetmetal wedge between the button and plate to compress it the last few thousands..
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