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670T front crank seal
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Northern Hoser View Drop Down
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Joined: 19 Feb 2020
Location: Canada
Points: 129 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Northern Hoser Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 670T front crank seal
    Posted: 17 hours 1 minutes ago at 1:47pm
Hi all, 

Rebuild of my 8030 went pretty well, all except the front seal (74036340) developed a leak within the first hours and were going to have to go back in. 

Is there anything unique about this seal? pics I'm seeing kind of look different than what I'd expect; also seeing what look like a simple rubber seal or one with felt in it. Depends on the manufacturer. Which one would be the best to put back in there? Pretty sure it was an AGCO supplied seal, or one from the kit which was a Reliance Kit

Shop that did the rebuild is going to pull and replace the seal just wondering if there's any tips or tricks with it maybe I could pass on. 

It could also be a leak really close to the seal area we'll have to rule out first, but oil is coming out behind the balancer somewhere. 

Thanks, Matt


Edited by Northern Hoser - 16 hours 58 minutes ago at 1:50pm
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 22534 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 hours 6 minutes ago at 5:42pm
Your seal installer must match the O.D. 0f the seal and can't be too thick. Always use some light oil on the inside of the seal and on the nose of the crank. Seal must be pulled/pushed in until it hits the stop wall machined in the timing cover.
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Joined: 29 Jan 2013
Location: Plymouth Utah
Points: 4036 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HudCo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 hours 29 minutes ago at 6:19pm
best to have a install tool to push those crankshft seals in instead of driving in with a seal driver  ,    with a sael driver i allways worrey about messing up the spring inside the lip of the seal  just my opinion  .  even if i have to take time to make one
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Joined: 21 Mar 2019
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Points: 701 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8070nc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 hours 6 minutes ago at 6:42pm
Maybe im wrong but i remmember rebuilding a 7040 that it was a seal that the part on the crank turned with the crank and it sealed inside itself. Hard to explain but i remember it being more robust than a regular seal
1984 80780
1957 D14
DES 300 with 25000 engine
616 tractor
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Northern Hoser View Drop Down
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Joined: 19 Feb 2020
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Points: 129 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Northern Hoser Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 hours 3 minutes ago at 6:45pm
Originally posted by 8070nc 8070nc wrote:

Maybe im wrong but i remmember rebuilding a 7040 that it was a seal that the part on the crank turned with the crank and it sealed inside itself. Hard to explain but i remember it being more robust than a regular seal


Ah that explains the look of the one I'm seeing, I've seen wheel seals like that before.
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Joined: 19 Feb 2020
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Points: 129 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Northern Hoser Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 hours 1 minutes ago at 6:47pm
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

Your seal installer must match the O.D. 0f the seal and can't be too thick. Always use some light oil on the inside of the seal and on the nose of the crank. Seal must be pulled/pushed in until it hits the stop wall machined in the timing cover.


Much appreciated!
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SteveM C/IL View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Points: 8814 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 hours 57 minutes ago at 6:51pm
8070 is correct at least on 8000 series...the inner part slides on crank and turns inside outer part much like a wheel seal on a semi. When doing on assembled engine should have a spacer of sorts that fits seal and push seal on/in with a plate and bolt threaded into nose. An all thread and nut works well. Doing this by hand you can tell when you hit bottom.

Edited by SteveM C/IL - 11 hours 56 minutes ago at 6:52pm
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Points: 8814 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 hours 51 minutes ago at 6:57pm
Make sure the pan gasket is not the leak.
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 22534 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 hours 27 minutes ago at 7:21pm
That style of seal is often referred to as a "unitized" seal or a "cartridge type" seal. 
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